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That's what it was for me, as soon as I swapped to a gray CPS from O'reilly, my truck was it's normal self again.
I take this back... DO NOT buy the Borg Warner CPS part number css1603 from O'reilly! It'll work initially, then start cutting out and catching while you're driving, sometimes it'll even stall while you're idling. Just go to the dealer and spend the money, the "lifetime warranty" isn't worth it...
I take this back... DO NOT buy the Borg Warner CPS part number css1603 from O'reilly! It'll work initially, then start cutting out and catching while you're driving, sometimes it'll even stall while you're idling. Just go to the dealer and spend the money, the "lifetime warranty" isn't worth it...
Mine lasted about 2 months.... I never had a clue that it would fail that quickly. I was in CPS denial. Ended up taking it to the stealership for a $700 gang rape. Live and learn.
outch! Sorry to hear! and glad to see I hit the nail on the head.
Thanks for getting back to us and letting us know about the cruddy Auto parts stare CPS.
OK leaning towards the injector I put into 8, it may have been the bad one in the first place, I did not have the no start issue until that one was put in/ I wish I had the money to do all 8 sigle shots but I just want it running so just waiting for a injector from Clay I hope its #8.
I did the dead head test but that us a bust cause the oil cross over, but did the hpop, idm and icp test all were within specs. It did show that my presuse was at 200 ish and one of my injectors was stuck open and thats the no start issue.
I wouldn't think that a stuck open injector would cause a no start issue, but can cause other bad things.
If 1 of the injectors was stuck in the open position, wouldn't it reduce the fuel pressure to the others causing it to not get enough fuel to the other cylinders when they were supposed to fire. Also, I would think that fuel constantly draining into a cylinder would have to slow the travel of the piston on the compression stroke for that cylinder, and therefore slowing the rotation of the crank.
sounds about right, the presure was in the 200's needs to be over 500 to start. I was told that the oil is thicker when the engine was cold thats why it will start and no start with the oil warmed up and thinner. I was told the #8 takes a differnt injector than the rest, but I talked to Clay and he said with the frx it should not matter, so just gotta wait for ups to show up and stab it into 8.
The worse part my freind helping me towed me home with his dmax
sounds about right, the presure was in the 200's needs to be over 500 to start. I was told that the oil is thicker when the engine was cold thats why it will start and no start with the oil warmed up and thinner. I was told the #8 takes a differnt injector than the rest, but I talked to Clay and he said with the frx it should not matter, so just gotta wait for ups to show up and stab it into 8.
The worse part my freind helping me towed me home with his dmax
FOR SHAME!!!!!!!!!! At least it wasn't a Dodge?
Man i hate to see u having these problems. I thought it was just me down this bad truck luck road. Keep us posted.
OK got #8 switched, the no start issue is gone but I am still having the load up issue at higher mph. The plan is to just do all of the now. I am sure its on the drivers side but if I have had thses problems now what about next time on the others.
OK got #8 switched, the no start issue is gone but I am still having the load up issue at higher mph. The plan is to just do all of the now. I am sure its on the drivers side but if I have had thses problems now what about next time on the others.
Check and see if someone is around you that has an AE to run some test on your truck. My X mechanic told me I needed 8 new injectors. Someone on this site got with me and checked and they were testing good. There are alot of other possibilities. We found that my truck is not making enough boost. 16 is ok stock but Clay at RiffRaff said I should get a good bit more than that with a chip or tunner.so I am putting new boots on my cooler lines. Also I didnt know it but my turbo was surging so i'm also putting in a whicked wheel.Sorry to ramble on just sharing what I'm learning.
Well, just FYI, my buddy's truck had problems at the higher RPMs when he mixed gas in his tank. He wasn't sure what was going on, it was almost acting like the turbo was stalling out but every time he hit the 1800 rpm range where the turbo should have been engaging his truck would fall flat on it's face due to pre-ignition from the gas mixed in the tank.
Yea thats what I checked first was the tubes, it starts at higher rpm but when it loads up it stays for a bit, even at stops and lower rpms, and dies from time to time also. The turbo feels stongs and is hitting 20s now so I know #6 was a pos. The miss is diffentley on the drivers side but to ensure.
OK got all the injectors installed, I am still having the same problem. I tried a new tech he said hpop or fuel screens in the tank are clogged. No screens per inovations kit, and what I know the injectors would not open at all without oil but if its under a load and weak could it cause the problems I am having.
but they will still barely work if there is some pressure. LPOP has been known to cause this issue due to being warn out and being unable to keep the HPOP reservoir full. Check the oil lvl of your HPOP and if you can put a gauge on your HPOP to see what your HPOP pressure lvl is.