Okay, getting ready to run seafoam through my truck.

Just wanting to know if it would be more worthwhile to put it right into the carb or to suck it through the brake booster vaccum line?


Also if you could tell me how to run it through these real quick it would be helpful! Thanks.

 

Snake oil makes your wallet lighter. Your money to waste, but if the goal is to get it in all cylinders you need to either pour it down the carb, suck it through a manifold vacuum line off the carb (not intake), or pour it down the fuel bowl vents on the carb (that way it would do its snake oil thing on the carb too).

 

Snake oil, BS!
It does a great job at cleaning the fuel system, and works very well at removing carbon buildup in an old engine.
Personally, I've never used it thru a vacuum port/hose, but I've frequently used this or B12 as a fuel additive to clean both carbed and EFI fuel sysems. Heck, I've got my son's 95 B2300 sitting in the driveway with 1/2 tank of fuel that had a pint of B12 added. So far, it has the truck run much smoother and not cut-out and stumble anymore, even though only 1/2 tank has been used.

 

It's kinda like the whole carb cleaner to find vaccum leaks thing.Some people swear it works,others get upset and feel the need to rant on how it's not an effective way at doing such and such.

 

For mine I pour a bit into the crank case (as directed) and into the carb. With the truck running, slowly pour Seafoam into the carb you'll notice immediate change in its idle speed. Once its all been poured turn the engine off and let it sit 5 to 10 minutes. After that start it up. Careful if you have lots of neighbors though cause it will smoke like crazy!

Heres an awesome write up on using Seafoam btw:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=43682

 

I did half through the gas tank and half straight down the carb when I got my truck. There was a noticeable improvement in driveability. When it comes time for my next oil change, I'll do the recommended 1/3 in the tank, 1/3 in the crank case and 1/3 down the carb.

This is the first vehicle I've used it on, and it definitely made a difference. I'm not claiming any miracles, or saying I'll run it through every car I ever own in the future, but here it helped.

 

Any improvements from this would have been as good or likely better by doing a proper carb rebuild. That's the only thing that will see anything from the miracle juice.

 

The carb was rebuilt right before I bought it. I don't have an empirical evidence to support my experience, I'm just saying there was a positive difference. My truck spent 27 years of hard life on a farm before I bought it, so I doubt much was done in the way of care and maintenance besides whatever was necessary to keep it running. After treatment, it idled better, and it was more eager to rev. All I'm saying was that there was some improvement in my case. I can't speak to if it would help in anyone else's case.

 

Ignore cadunkle. he thinks he knows everything, and wants everyone to know it.... (I have a feeling this will soon become a quote added to someone's sig....)

The "miracle juice" likely made a noticeable difference, as you state. This could have been simply due to cleaning gum/varnish deposits out of the fuel supply system, and maybe even inside the carb, from having been added to the fuel.
It could also have made a difference by removing carbon deposits inside the engine, both on the valves and inside the combustion chambers, from years of life as a farm truck, that prolly spent 80% of it's time idling/putting around inside the fences.

I don't like adding these types of chemicals to the oil. Many thousands have done so without issues, I just don't do it. For a gummed up oiling system, I add a qt of ATF to the oil, drive it mildly, changing the oil after 500-1000 miles. Repeating as needed.

 

LOL, it'll take me a year to go 1000 miles The truck had an oil change right before I bought it, but not knowing what oil was used, I figured I'd change it at 3 months anyway, even though I won't have gone 200 miles in it probably. Do you think ATF would be as effective if I was planning on adding whatever, driving maybe 20 miles and doing the oil change?

 

ATF does a decent job of cleaning out the gunk buildup inside the cavaties of an engine, however, it doesn't do the job fast. The high detergent qualities in ATF are designed to keep the insides of an auto trans clean, but do eventually reach the limit of what they can do. Hence, one of the reasons autos need regular servicing.
Harsh cleaners, like seafoam and B12, break up the deposits fast, and can cause the oil pump pickup screen and/or oil filter to become restricted or totally clogged. That's why they state to change the oil very soon after adding them.
ATF will do this much more slowly, but the filter can still get overloaded with crud well before the "normal" oil change interval is reached. The oil will also turn extremely black, at a very fast rate. That's why I do frequent oil changes while doing this. I just watch how the oil looks, and when it gets darker than I like, it's outta there.
Some people (perhaps even one who has already made a donkey of himself in here) may say that ATF doesn't lubricate like oil. Partly true. It's thinner, and has a lot of additives. However, it's the ONLY lubrication an auto trans will ever see, and most newer manual trans also use ATF as their exclusive lube. guess that dispells the "not a lubricant" myth......
Seafoam and B12 ECT, are not lubricants, though.

 

i changed my oil less than 200 miles ago. as far as i know my truck has never seen seafoam. should i apply seafoam now (it will be MANY months until i put on 3K miles) or wait until i'm close to needing an oil change (perhaps 50-100 miles beforehand) and then do the seafoam?

 

neat thread, good info. Been thinking of using it in my trucks as well. The 86 won't need any in the tank though as the whole fuel system is brand new. I've used rice in the past to clean up carbon in the engine and it gets rid of itself, but you gotta pull the spark plugs to put it in. I've always changed my oil right after doing any kind internal cleaning for the reason Rogue said so the oil pickup does not get plugged. The only additive I've ever used in anything is when I do oil changes I use STP oil treatment as it is very high in zinc and the engine likes that. The only additive I've ever heard having ill effects on engines is slick 50, and from numerous people. Seafoam seems to be good stuff from what I've read.

 

I wouldn't worry about the oil unless you add it to the crank case. Seafoam via gas tank, or carb/vac line should never see your oil unless something else is seriously wrong

 

I always use a motor flush (Gunk or K&W, I think) in my oil right before changing it. I've heard that they are both very similar to kerosene. I have never used kerosene, and don't think that I would want to. I can say doing this definitely keeps the internals of my engines cleaner than if I didn't use anything.