x2. Can be done but best to get the correct one.

Sweet. Was that crossmember different than your stock one then for the auto or did it end up being the same? So you're saying that if the spacer was not there then the starter would have nowhere to bolt up on?

 

Did you make sure that your pedal box bushings are good? I mean it does have 274K on it but if those plastic bushings are bad then you may save some money and get some more life from it.

 

The cross member between stick ans auto are different.You need a stick cross member.And yes on the spacer,the diesels need them for the starter mounting spot.

 

Well............back to the start. Not going to do the swap. Prob gonna rebuild the auto. I dont have the help to do the swap.

 

Jacob,
Not arguing at all.
This is all great info, just conflicting it seems, between what I have been told and what you guys that have done it have found.
Upon further inspection it indeed looks as if the alum spacer is needed for the starter which would make the ZF longer.
That will really suck if I have to have my shafts modded, which looks to be the case.
Cross member: I have no idea. I'll make mine work if it's at all possible.

I'll be sure to add my findings as well.

 

it really isnt to hard like we said its direct bolt in if you have all the parts like a donor truck.If not you just gather them all up,and its easier to pull the auto and put in the stick then pull the auto and take in and get fixed the re install it,unless you just have a shop do it all.

 

ok ok, everyone around here wants stupid money for donor trucks. So ill gather all the parts up. I have a massive shop with a lift so its not that bad. Except i sold my car so im down to one vehicle haha

 

Makes me glad I have the whole '88 F350 Crew Cab ZF 4x4 for my swap. I can use the driveshafts and crossmember from the donor truck.

Bad thing is the P.O. took out the Dana 60 front and put in a D50. I can still use the front springs and shackles, etc. for my 4x4 swap when I get to it though. Gonna just do the trans and t-case first.

 

I changed the pedal box bushings and the ebay tie rod thing, it helped but I still want a new tranny because I can't get my truck into 2nd gear unless I'm at a complete stop.
I have 2 more questions: Is the tail shaft from a S-5-42 the same as the S-5-47? Is the tailshaft hard to change. I think this would be worth changing if I could get this used trans cheap enough. While I'm changing my trans I'm going to go with a Valair clutch and SMF. My clutch only has 35K on it but my DMF is is about shot.

 

I bet it wouldn't be too hard to use it. Just a little drilling of some new holes and bam. Hell there may already be some, I just didn't look since I had the other one. And you can use the same spacer that's in front of your E4OD as well. Same shape, same bolt pattern.
Keep looking for that donor if its what you want. I almost gave up when one came up for a screamin good deal and boy did it make it stupid easy. Did it in my driveway, me and a bud. It may be expensive up front but I guarantee there are ten guys on here who will claim the IDM, PCM, injectors, harnesses, stuff from your auto setup, etc. Much less interior, mirrors, bumpers, seats.
I asked my tranny guy about the tailhousings from 42 vs 47. He said they are interchangeable. Now, I asked him about 4x4 to 4x4. I do not know if you can swap one from 2wd over. I bet you could though but don't bank on that. Someone else may know for sure.
Was it easy to change the pedal box bushings?

 

I kinda cheated and was lucky. The only bushing that was bad was the easiest one to get to (the one closest to the passenger side). That one just slides in and out without removal of the whole pedal assembly.

 

Cool one, Redman. :)

Here's a picture to go with what Redman's talking about...

From a 188k '90 f250 351w, clutch-master-cylinder pushrod and the
stud that "sorta ;)" moved it...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/pushrods.jpg
...and the new brake-pushrod that I replaced the wornout one with
but that took welding in a new larger-diameter stud and shortening
the brake pushrod too....
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/pushrod.jpg

That's what "don't fix it if it ain't broke" looks like to a tinkering fool
and "born to modify" guy like me. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

One other question came to mind.
Will the E4OD bolts work in the ZF, to bolt to the engine?

 

Yes they will

 

I can't wait to have a 5-speed in my truck...