dist :: 2010-06-27165740.jpg picture by justinyaa420 - Photobucket

 

NO, the ground strap goes on top of the point plare noy under.

 

No grease on the rubbing block?

 

this is the first time i have messed with points so any imput would be nice
would any thing in the pic make my truck not start lol i attempted to convert to pertronix and truck did not start so put my point back in and still wont start

thank you for the in put

 

Is that condensor wire touching underneath the nut as I can't tell in pic. If so that is a problem. that wire and the hot wire is connected ok if they are above ground aka not grounded.

 

I would bet 90% of people today don't know about dist. grease. But that wouldn't keep the truck from starting.
Make sure the wire from the condenser isn't grounding out, merlynr is right, you can't tell from the picture. While you're checking that move the small ground wire from underneath the points to on top of the points. Bump the engine over until the points rubbing block is on the high point of the dist cam and adjust the point gap so it's 0.017". Check to see if you have spark. If you don't try cleaning the points. Using a point file (that's something else you don't see anymore) or a piece of fine sandpaper run i t between the contacts to clean them. If you use sandpaper, double it up so you clean both contacts at the same time. Once you clean them, in particular if you used sandpaper, take a dollar bill and run it between the contacts. This will remove any grit left on the points that might insulate them.

 

Dollar bill ?? It's been a while since I've heard that... sounds like "old school" mechanics to me. WELL DONE.

 

so i changed the strap to the top of the points checked if it was grounding under the nut still no luck

 

there is no spark

 

With the key in the on position and cap off dist and the points closed(off the lobe), you should have a spark across the points if u manually open them with some kind of tool. If no spark, check to see if you have voltage on the pos side of coil. That is the wire that runs to the dizzy.

 

The tool end that touches the points should be NON-METAL or you can too easily short to ground. Better yet have the rub block on the top of the cam lobe then use a screwdriver to short the points. Should spark every time you short the points. If you get spark this way and no spark merlynr's way then the points are bad.

 

thank you for the quik response i did what mer said and got no spark i dont have a volt meter what is a dizzy and i have to have something wong cuz it all work great before i installed a ignitor ( did not work) so took it back put the points back in i feel like a fool and i am ready to snap lol

 

You need to see if you have power going to the distributor (dizzy=distributor). On the coil are two SMALL wires. One is marked + the other is marked - or dist. If you don't have access to a voltmeter, you might try fabing a test light from a 12v bulb and socket and pigtail. with the igntion on (be sure the points are open) ground one wire of the test light and touch the other wire to the + wire of the coil. If you have power the light should glow. It won't be bright because the igntion circuit doesn't have a full 12v running through it.
If you show voltage there check the other small wire that goes to the distributor. Make sure it's in good condition (no breaks, not grounded anywhere). Do the same thing, disconect the wire from the points, ground one wire of the test light, touch the other wire to the points wire and see if it glows. If it doesn't the wire is bad. If it does there is a problem with the points and/or condenser.

 

I'm not just "old school", I'm old...period.

 

Sheesh, I bet you and Bear both have a dwell meter...and know how to use it For Cheby's, a matchbook cover is amost exactly the OEM .019 point gap required. Lube on the rubbing block..Wow, I'm getting old, I remember that as a requirement. LOL. If I remember correctly, ford's required a .017 air gap. Hey, at least with the cheby's one could use an allen wrench to adjust the dwell.. I have a question for you old pro's...Do you remember how to adjust a dual point dizzy? I had a trick for point gap adjustment before checking total dwell. It could mean a lot at the track.

Sorry for the Hijack of the thread, but this thread was way too cool to pass up.