is this right?
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Freshman User
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this is the first time i have messed with points so any imput would be nice
would any thing in the pic make my truck not start lol i attempted to convert to pertronix and truck did not start so put my point back in and still wont start
thank you for the in put
would any thing in the pic make my truck not start lol i attempted to convert to pertronix and truck did not start so put my point back in and still wont start
thank you for the in put
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
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From: Stanley, VA
I would bet 90% of people today don't know about dist. grease
. But that wouldn't keep the truck from starting.
Make sure the wire from the condenser isn't grounding out, merlynr is right, you can't tell from the picture. While you're checking that move the small ground wire from underneath the points to on top of the points. Bump the engine over until the points rubbing block is on the high point of the dist cam and adjust the point gap so it's 0.017". Check to see if you have spark. If you don't try cleaning the points. Using a point file (that's something else you don't see anymore) or a piece of fine sandpaper run i t between the contacts to clean them. If you use sandpaper, double it up so you clean both contacts at the same time. Once you clean them, in particular if you used sandpaper, take a dollar bill and run it between the contacts. This will remove any grit left on the points that might insulate them.
. But that wouldn't keep the truck from starting.Make sure the wire from the condenser isn't grounding out, merlynr is right, you can't tell from the picture. While you're checking that move the small ground wire from underneath the points to on top of the points. Bump the engine over until the points rubbing block is on the high point of the dist cam and adjust the point gap so it's 0.017". Check to see if you have spark. If you don't try cleaning the points. Using a point file (that's something else you don't see anymore) or a piece of fine sandpaper run i t between the contacts to clean them. If you use sandpaper, double it up so you clean both contacts at the same time. Once you clean them, in particular if you used sandpaper, take a dollar bill and run it between the contacts. This will remove any grit left on the points that might insulate them.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
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From: Kingsport, TN
Dollar bill ?? It's been a while since I've heard that... sounds like "old school" mechanics to me. WELL DONE.
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so i changed the strap to the top of the points checked if it was grounding under the nut still no luck 
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With the key in the on position and cap off dist and the points closed(off the lobe), you should have a spark across the points if u manually open them with some kind of tool. If no spark, check to see if you have voltage on the pos side of coil. That is the wire that runs to the dizzy.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
With the key in the on position and cap off dist and the points closed(off the lobe), you should have a spark across the points if u manually open them with some kind of tool. If no spark, check to see if you have voltage on the pos side of coil. That is the wire that runs to the dizzy.
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thank you for the quik response i did what mer said and got no spark i dont have a volt meter what is a dizzy and i have to have something wong cuz it all work great before i installed a ignitor ( did not work) so took it back put the points back in i feel like a fool and i am ready to snap lol
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
You need to see if you have power going to the distributor (dizzy=distributor). On the coil are two SMALL wires. One is marked + the other is marked - or dist. If you don't have access to a voltmeter, you might try fabing a test light from a 12v bulb and socket and pigtail. with the igntion on (be sure the points are open) ground one wire of the test light and touch the other wire to the + wire of the coil. If you have power the light should glow. It won't be bright because the igntion circuit doesn't have a full 12v running through it.
If you show voltage there check the other small wire that goes to the distributor. Make sure it's in good condition (no breaks, not grounded anywhere). Do the same thing, disconect the wire from the points, ground one wire of the test light, touch the other wire to the points wire and see if it glows. If it doesn't the wire is bad. If it does there is a problem with the points and/or condenser.
If you show voltage there check the other small wire that goes to the distributor. Make sure it's in good condition (no breaks, not grounded anywhere). Do the same thing, disconect the wire from the points, ground one wire of the test light, touch the other wire to the points wire and see if it glows. If it doesn't the wire is bad. If it does there is a problem with the points and/or condenser.
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Sheesh, I bet you and Bear both have a dwell meter...and know how to use it
For Cheby's, a matchbook cover is amost exactly the OEM .019 point gap required. Lube on the rubbing block..Wow, I'm getting old, I remember that as a requirement. LOL. If I remember correctly, ford's required a .017 air gap. Hey, at least with the cheby's one could use an allen wrench to adjust the dwell..
I have a question for you old pro's...Do you remember how to adjust a dual point dizzy? I had a trick for point gap adjustment before checking total dwell. It could mean a lot at the track.
Sorry for the Hijack of the thread, but this thread was way too cool to pass up.
For Cheby's, a matchbook cover is amost exactly the OEM .019 point gap required. Lube on the rubbing block..Wow, I'm getting old, I remember that as a requirement. LOL. If I remember correctly, ford's required a .017 air gap. Hey, at least with the cheby's one could use an allen wrench to adjust the dwell.. I have a question for you old pro's...Do you remember how to adjust a dual point dizzy? I had a trick for point gap adjustment before checking total dwell. It could mean a lot at the track.Sorry for the Hijack of the thread, but this thread was way too cool to pass up.