EGR Valve Position (Volts 0-5)
TXD: 07E022167E
RXF: 04620516067E
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000133330000
NAM: EGV


Throttle Position 1 (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220917
RXF: 046245090617
RXD: 3010
MTH: 0064040000000
NAM: TP1
Note: Voltage of the ETC Throttle Position Sensor number 1

Throttle Position 2 (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220918
RXF: 046245090618
RXD: 3010
MTH: 0064040000000
NAM: TP2
Note: Voltage of the ETC Throttle Position Sensor number 2

Throttle Position Desired (Degrees)
TXD: 07E022091A
RXF: 04624509061A
RXD: 3010
MTH: 0064020000000
NAM: TPD
Note: ETC Commanded Throttle Angle, in degrees.

Throttle Position Actual (Degrees)
TXD: 07E022093C
RXF: 04624509063C
RXD: 3010
MTH: 0064020000000
NAM: TPA
Note: The measured throttle angle from the throttle sensor inputs

Throttle Position Commanded (Degrees) (Have not seen this one verified)
TXD: 07E022091A
RXF: 04620509061A
RXD: 3010
MTH: 020000010000
NAM: TPC

FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts)
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP

FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP

FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48)
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP

VGT Duty Cycle (%)
TXD: 07E022096D
RXF: 04620509066D
RXD: 3010
MTH: 00647FFF0000
NAM: VGT

Engine Coolant temp, *F
TXD: 07E0221139
RXF: 46205110639
RXD: 3008
MTH: 200010000
NAM: ECT

Engine Oil Temp.
TXD: 07E0221310
RXF: 046245130610
RXD: 3010
MTH: 00090005F05F ( Use this if the EOT is not reading right: 00090005FFD8 or 00090005F060)
NAM: EOT

Trans. Fluid Temp., *F
TXD: 07E1221674
RXF: 046205160674
RXD: 3010
MTH:000100080000
NAM: TFT

Inj. Control Press., psig
TXD: 07E0221446
RXF: 046205140646
RXD: 3010
MTH: 003900640000
NAM: ICP

 

ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
MTH: 004827100000
NAM: ICV

IPR Duty Cycle
TXD: 07E0221434
RXF: 046285140634
RXD: 3008
MTH: 0DCA03E8000A
NAM: IPR %

Exhaust Back Pressure
TXD: 07E0221445
RXF: 046285140645
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: EBP

Exhaust Back Pressure (-0.5 PSI bias)
TXD: 07E0221445
RXF: 046285140645
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D0050FFFB
NAM: EBP

Fuel Level
TXD: 07E02216C1
RXF: 0462451606C1
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000101480000
NAM: FL

Engine Run Time
TXD: 07DF011F
RXF: 0441051F
RXD: 2810
MTH: 0001003C0000
NAM: ERT (Minutes)

IAT1 Degrees F
TXD: 07E0221123
RXF: 046205110623
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: IAT1 Degrees F

Manifold Absolute Pressure
TXD: 07E0221440
RXF: 046285140640
RXD: 3010
MTH: 012203200000
NAM: PSI

With a little tweaking you can adjust this to read boost as you said.

To do this, just plug in the MAP code - get a reading from it with the key in the on position but the engine off, then based on the reading changed the last 4 digits of the MTH to whatever corresponds to your reading on this table
12.7 -- FF81
12.8 -- FF80
12.9 -- FF7F
13.0 -- FF7E
13.1 -- FF7D
13.2 -- FF7C
13.3 -- FF7B
13.4 -- FF7A
13.5 -- FF79
13.6 -- FF78
13.7 -- FF77
13.8 -- FF76
13.9 -- FF75
14.0 -- FF74
14.1 -- FF73
14.2 -- FF72
14.3 -- FF71
14.4 -- FF70
14.5 -- FF6F
14.6 -- FF6E
14.7 -- FF6D
14.8 -- FF6C
14.9 -- FF6B
15.0 -- FF6A

So, for example if you got a reading of 14.5 PSI with key on engine off you'd change the MTH to 01220320FF6F and the reading should read 0.0 with key on engine off and would then show how many lbs of boost you were at when the vehicle is running.

Injector Timing Before Top Dead Center (Degrees)
TXD: 07E02209CC
RXF: 0462850906CC
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000A00400000
NAM: ITM

Fuel Injector Pulse Width (microseconds)
TXD: 07E0221410
RXF: 046205140610
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000800010000
NAM: FPW

 

Fuel Injector #1 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF
RXF: 0462250906EF
RXD: 3001
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: FI1

Fuel Injector #2 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF
RXF: 0462250906EF
RXD: 3101
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: FI2

Fuel Injector #3 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF
RXF: 0462250906EF
RXD: 3201
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: FI3

Fuel Injector #4 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF
RXF: 0462250906EF
RXD: 3301
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: FI4

Fuel Injector #5 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF
RXF: 0462250906EF
RXD: 3401
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: FI5

Fuel Injector #6 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF
RXF: 0462250906EF
RXD: 3501
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: FI6

Fuel Injector #7 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF
RXF: 0462250906EF
RXD: 3601
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: FI7

Fuel Injector #8 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF
RXF: 0462250906EF
RXD: 3701
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: FI8


Cylinder #1 cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E022160E
RXF: 04620516060E
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: 1CM

Cylinder #2 cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E022160F
RXF: 04620516060F
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: 2CM

Cylinder #3 cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221610
RXF: 046205160610
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: 3CM

Cylinder #4 cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221611
RXF: 046205160611
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: 4CM

Cylinder #5 cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221612
RXF: 046205160612
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: 5CM

Cylinder #6 cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221613
RXF: 046205160613
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: 6CM

 

Cylinder #7 cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221614
RXF: 046205160614
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: 7CM

Cylinder #8 cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221615
RXF: 046205160615
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: 8CM

Vehicle Speed Sensor (MPH)
TXD: 07E02211C1
RXF: 0462051106C1
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000102000000
NAM: VSS

Accelerator Pedal Position (%)
TXD: 07E02209D4
RXF: 0462050906D4
RXD: 3008
MTH: 000100020000
NAM: AP%

DTC Count
TXD: 07E0220200
RXF: 046205020600
RXD: 3008
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: DTC

Sync (1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync) FICM SYNC
TXD: 07E02209CD
RXF: 0462050906CD
RXD: 3701
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: SYC

Mass Fuel Desired (in milligrams perstroke)
TXD: 07E0221412
RXF: 046205140612
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100100000
NAM: MFD

Volume Fuel Desired, Cubic mm
TXD: 07E0221411
RXF: 046245140611
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006400100000
NAM: VFD

VREF
TXD: 07E0221155
RXF: 046245110655
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006433330000
NAM: CVI


Battery Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E0221172
RXF: 046205110672
RXD: 3008
MTH: 000100100000
NAM: BAT

Gear
TXD: 07E12211B3
RXF: 0462051106B3
RXD: 3008
MTH: 000100020000
NAM: GER

Fan Speed Sensor Duty Cycle (%) THIS DOESN'T WORK FOR ME!!
TXD: 07E022091F
RXF: 04624509061F
RXD: 3010
MTH: 013103E80000
NAM: FDC

Fan Speed Sensor (RPM)
TXD: 07E022099F
RXF: 04620509069F
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100040000
NAM: FSS
FSS 07E022099F 04620509069F 3010 000100010000 FAN SPEED SENSOR, rpm (I believe this 1 is wrong)

Barometric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E0221442
RXF: 046285140642
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: BAR

Transmission Range
TXD: 07E12211B6
RXF: 0462051106B6
RXD: 3008
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: TR
"""TR - PRNDL Position. 0=fault. 1=manual 1st gear. 2=second to last position. 3=drive. 4=overdrive. 5=neutral. 6=reverse. 7=park""
""TR - PRNDL Position. 0=fault. 1=manual 1st gear. 2=second to last position. 3=drive. 4=overdrive. 5=neutral. 6=reverse. 7=park""
"

Manifold Air Temperature (Degrees F) NOTE: THIS SHOULD READ THE SAME AS IAT2
TXD: 07E02216E0
RXF: 0462051606E0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001200050020
NAM: MAT

So say you wanted to step through the response for the Sync XGauge you'd set it up as follows
TXD: 07E02209CD
RXF: 0462150906CD (Notice the '1' in the 5th digit = display raw hex value)
RXD: 0010 (This effectively states "start from bit 0 in the response, and capture 16 bits (or two bytes) to display)
MTH: 000100010000 (This MTH is needed as it just multiplies by 1 and divides by 1 to leave the data unconverted
NAM: WD1 (Short for Word 1 so I know this is the 1st Word (word is another way of saying '2 bytes') in the response.
You can step through the whole response by using RXD's 0010, 1010, 2010, 3010, 4010.


Horse Power
TXD: 0
RSF: 400080000000
RXD: 0
MTH: 000A00240000
NAM: HPR

ITM 07E02209CC 0426850906CC 3010 000A00400000 INJECTOR TIMING BTDC (DEGREES)

Injector Timing Before Top Dead Center (Degrees)
TXD: 07E02209CC
RXF: 0462850906CC
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000A00400000
NAM: ITM

Fuel Injector Pulse Width (microseconds)
TXD: 07E0221410
RXF: 046205140610
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000800010000
NAM: FPW

 

I just test drove a nice 2006 f350 with the 6.0 and it drove great and started great we drove it around the lot and about 3-4 miles around town came back and looked around and came back to this truck we drove it again this time on the interstate for about 30 or so miles came back shut it down and when we came back it would not start they said it had a High pressure oil leak a O ring was blownand they fixed it I had them run a oasis report it came back clean and carfax clean is this common for this truck this will be my 1st diesel thanks and God Bless

 

Note - corrected the above programming by removing an extra "0" in the MTH entry.

(thanks Sean!)

 

Here is another thread that may be helpful:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...year-6-0s.html

Also - some suggestions on getting the best parts at the best price:

One thing to keep in mind: There are MANY, MANY counterfeit OEM parts suppliers. Just because it is being sold as genuine Motorcraft, doesn't mean that it actually is!

Without exception, genuine OEM parts are best for sensors and actuators!

• The best aftermarket early HPOP is probably the CNCFab HPOP with the Dieselsite Adrenaline HPOP as a very close second.
• KCTurbo sells the best turbos IMO.
• Several companies sell very good aftermarket up-pipes, down-pipes, and exhausts. Just need to search.
• Cab mount and body mount bushings from S&B are best
• The OEM radiator is very good, but the tanks are crimped on and some people want all aluminum radiators without the crimped on tanks. BulletProofDiesel sells a very good radiator. I am told (and many forum posts support this) that Performance Radiators are good.
• The BulletProofDiesel EGR coolers are best - period!
• OEM water pumps are good, but the BulletProofDiesel water pump is very good also.
• OEM style oil coolers are a crap shoot now (Ford changed their supplier).
• The OEM standpipes are seemingly lower in quality now than when the updated design first came out. Maybe just re-oringing what you have is a good choice - if you install them correctly. Supposedly Dieselsite has a great aftermarket standpipe, but their first attempt at an improved design was not particularly successful! I do think that they are on the right path in the upgrades they have done.
• IMO OEM starters are best
• Alternators are a crap shoot IMO - especially if you want a high output one!
• Filters from DieselFiltersOnline are OEM and a good price (free shipping at either $200 or $250 spent). Racor filters are cheaper and they designed and supplied the OEM filters,
• For re-manufactured injectors, the OEM ones are best. That said, excellent upgraded injectors are sold by FullForceDiesel. Some say that Holders Diesel is also good, but the forum community has documented a few issues with them and a few issues getting warranty replacements. New Pure Power injectors are EXCELLENT! Pure Power was the manufacturer for the original injectors (and who re-manufactures injectors for Ford). If you can buy/afford these, they are probably the best. Injector Direct sells them at a good price!
• For FICMs it is best to have yours repaired/upgraded by FICMrepair.com or CircuitBoardMedics.com versus buying a new OEM FICM (which is also very expensive)!

Obviously buying parts from a local dealership will get you the genuine OEM parts. Unfortunately those prices are almost always VERY HIGH!

Genuine Motorcraft parts can be bought from several reliable dealerships that sell on-line! To name a few:

• Auto Nation White Bear Lake
• Tasca Ford
• Lakeland Ford

FordParts.com can be a cheap source for parts and a way to eliminate shipping costs. Just sign up for an account and specify your local dealerships, and you can buy parts that can be picked up at the dealership of choice with no shipping charges. Most times the on-line dealerships beat the FordParts.com prices by quite a bit, but sometimes shipping from these on-line dealerships can be VERY high! At times the cost of shipping can result in FordParts.com being cheapest. That said, the price you get on FordParts.com depends on which dealership you select to shop at! It is advisable to check the price in that system at ALL your local (or nearby) dealerships if you want to get the lowest price (you have to change who you shop with in their system - ie change the "specified" dealership). Each dealership gets to specify what % discount they will offer on each. Some offer good discounts, some don't! With checking though!

VERY good places that sell both OEM parts and good quality aftermarket parts:

• CNCFab
• RiffRaff
• KCTurbo
• DieselFiltersOnLine
• DieselORings

Parker Hannifin designed and supplied components of the 6.0L fuel system If you know your part number, sometimes you can get a good price from them. They are an EXCELLENT company. They are now a "Stanadyne" company!

https://ph.parker.com/us/en/category

Extreme Diesel (XDP) is pretty good and Accurate Diesel sells some good products. Some folks recommend ProSourceDiesel. I have bought good parts from them, but I am not convinced that all they sell is OEM or OEM quality. Just do some research on what you need and you will be fine!


There is more, but start your own thread if you are unsure as to what/where to buy parts.

 

Dude its people like you that makes a difference in the world. Thanks for your time and a Big Thank you .

 

Due to popular demand, I added this to the Tech Folder. Please keep additional information to the technical side to help those are thinking of purchasing a used truck.

 

Also, once you've really decided on a truck, run a Carfax or Autocheck History report to verify that the truck was in no major accidents and the number of owners. You can purchase a 30 day Autocheck that will let you run unlimited VIN checks. I did this in order weed out the negative vehicles from the start. A couple of the vehicles I looked at were in 2 or 3 accidents and had major damage. I wouldn't purchase any of those.

The other concern to look for on the report is the number of owners and how long they have owned it. I found a truck on Craigslist, the guy bought it in March and was selling it in July after putting a tuner and 22" rims on it. That should be a red flag right there. Also, I wanted either a 1 owner truck or 2 owners max. The more owners to me, tells me that people were frustrated with the truck and just selling it to get out from under it. When you get a 6-10 year old truck and it's had 5 or 6 owners, there's probably a reason. My truck had 171,000 miles on it when I bought it. The 2nd owner bought it when it had 155,000 miles. To me, if 1 owner could put up with the truck for 155,000 miles, then it must have took decent care of him. The 2nd owner owned it for 2 years and only used it to tow his motorcycles to the races. I checked the VIN report and his story checked out. This could have also backfired on me because a 'rarely used' and sitting Diesel truck can end up with more problems too.

CarFax is more detailed and will even tell you when the vehicle was at a dealership or reputable shop that reports the work being performed and what repairs were done (outside of Oasis), but the problem is the carfax reports are costly compared to Autocheck. You can buy I think 5 unique CarFax VIN reports for $49.95. If I was purchasing from a dealer, I would make it mandatory that they show me the CarFax on the vehicle.

If you run into a seller that balks at giving you the VIN to check before you come to take a look at it. Don't even bother. Move on to the next seller!

 

This should be a BOLD STICKY at the top of the 6.0 forum. It would alleviate a ton of redundant posts.

Or even make it a mandatory read before posting in the 6.0 forum.

With a test afterwards...lol.

 

I know a lot of people laugh at this guy and say he's worthless, but in all honesty, I watched these videos 3 or 4 times before embarking on my last few trips to buy a used 6.0. I realize this is the 7.3, but I was looking for either truck. 7.3 or 6.0. This is my first Diesel and I had no idea what to look for. I know many of you guys on here already know what to look for, but the people like me who came from gassers their entire life, might find some use for them. I found them invaluable. He saved me money because I found a couple of issues using his tips and was able to get the truck cheaper by negotiating. I wore bad clothes when I went to look so that I could crawl under the truck.

 

Thank You (Mark) Bizmic for your time into all of this Valueable Info. reps when I can

 

wow necro posting. i love it

 

I am looking at buying a newer F-250 to replace my 1994 f-250 and 1995 f-250. just not sure on getting the 6.0. I had a 7.3 super duty before and loved it but clearly I have to buy an older truck for to get that. It seems to be hard to find a gasser super duty and would prefer a diesel for hauling and for length of ownership. My problem is im not a diesel mechanic nor do I claim to be very savvy when it comes to diesels. however I like good deals and if I can get a deal on a 6.0 because its a 6.0. I would like to but I cant afford to buy problems. Any advise is greatly appreciated
thanks

andrew