Well seriously I am all about changing SOME stuff that may or may not need to be changed because it is all stock and getting worn and since I just bought it I want to restore it to perfect condition that way it will last for as long as I want it to. I plan on total resto of this truck and maybe eventually a new motor all together, that or total high performance rebuild of the existing motor. So I am going to keep checking and adding new stuff as needed and when I figure the problem out with this I will let you all know what it was for future problems.
Next things on my list is fuel pressure reg, throttle position sensor, and the map sensor, pcv valve and check all vacuum lines again.

So far is has a new dist cap, rotor, plugs, IAC, filter, oil filter, new oil, new fuel filter new tranny oil and all fluids topped off or changed, engine has been cleaned. Ohh and I took a tooth brush and some throttle body cleaner and cleaned the throttle body out.

 

Unfortunately not all the time. Good thing that wasn't his problem. I've had my friend have a bad fuel regulator and the line didn't have gas dripping nor did it smell like gas. Glad your issue is resolved but next time pay attention to what a vacuum line sounds like and does when disconnected. Ofcourse if it is a small leak it is harder to tell.

 

Excellent. A true Ford Man. Yes replace all sensors. I ended up restoring mine unwillingly until I found my problem. Even replaced my computer but now I know it will last me a long time without maintenance, ofcourse regular tune-ups are still a must. Nice on the throttle body cleaning. High five.

 

Hey guys I am also looking for a rebuilt or used ZF 5 speed 4x4 transmission if you guys might know where I could find a good one for a good price. I plan on swapping out the old m5r2 piece of junk outta there.

 

Ok I changed fuel pressure regulator, not the problem. Going with the map and tps sensors next. I also did a SeaFoam run through on the motor as well. Seemed to run a little smoother after that, so I am a believer in that now, also after I installed the fuel pressure regulator it seemed to idle high for the first ohh 6 miles or so and then it went back to original idle. Ohh and added new pcv valves. So crossing all that off my list of not the problems..

 

Grab yourself a multimeter and make sure you test both of those before you replace them, unless you have tons of cash like that haha. If you do, by all means do ya thang.

Question, can you get the truck to stall with it never having moved? As in crank it up, rev it up and let it come down, does it stay running? Try doing exactly what you do while driving, except don't go anywhere, hit the brakes and all that.

 

Nope I tried that already. I cant get it to do it. I was hoping I could that way I could have someone reproduce it while I was nosing around under the hood.

 

Umm... I kinda agree with Dreadly Diggs. The TPS is about a $50.00 part (here) and the MAP is well over $100.00 (here). I see that a lot of folks here have tried changing MAP sensors to solve issues and to no avail. My understanding is that they really don't fail that often. I think that that the shotgun approach is a pretty expensive way to problem solve, and that you're money is best spent on diagnosing this thing, rather than throwing more parts at it.

Here's what I'd do. Did you put a fuel pressure tester on the truck before you changed out the FPR? If so, what did it read? 38-42psi on the rail if memory serves me is correct. If you still have access to the pressure tester, can you try it again now that you changed the FPR? Is it a nice steady reading or does the gauge bounce around quite a bit? Since you've changed your FPR, this could point to a) a dodgy fuel pump on the verge of failure or b) a plugged fuel filter. Changing out your fuel filter I don't thing would be such a bad idea if you haven't already done so.

See if you can beg, borrow, or buy an OBD I tester with the correct Ford adapter. There's a way to read your codes without using a tester, but I don't remember how. You most definitely can have codes without a Check Engine light.

Does the truck seem to be running rich?

I've only ever had to change out a MAP sensor once and it was on an early 90's Tempo. When it went bad, the Check Engine light was on solid and the car ran horribly, not like your truck with the occasional stall.

If the truck isn't running rich, I'd look at the following next: 1. Wiring to your coil. Is it in good shape? I think you said you changed the coil, but what did the primary wiring look like? 2. Check the condition of your wiring to the TFI module going to the distributor. Is this ok? 3. Track down every single vacuum line on your truck and make sure it's in decent shape.

Is your truck hard to re-start after it stalls, or does it just fire right up? When a TFI module goes, it can work when it's cool, but go bad when it gets warm. When they cool off, they work ok again.

I don't want to tell you to run out and buy a TFI module, as they're not cheap either. I'm kind of thinking that this might be what your problem is, but I'd definitely want to get any codes from your truck before spending the $$ on the TFI module. While we're at it, is the vaccum advance on the distributor working as it should? Is the vaccuum line going to it connected and in decent shape?

Hope this helps a little and if you can pull your codes and post them, (if they show up), that would help. After you puill your codes and post them, if it looks like we should go in the direction of the TFI module, I have a procedure kicking around here to test the TFI module.

 

Just to answer a few of your questions right now as I will get to the others as soon as I can.

The regulator was fairly cheap so I just went ahead and changed it just because it was original probably and more than likely wasnt a bad idea to change. I didnt check the pressure yet and I did change the fuel filter with my full tune up I did a few weeks ago.

The truck does seem to run a little rich. Doesnt smoke at all but seems to load up here and there. Smell gas sometimes when I come to a stop.

Also the truck fires right up after dieing.

It only happens on occasion, but when it does it, it seems to do it for a while. Like every stop.

As for the ignition setup I am currently looking into a new ignition setup from msd at the moment. So that will take care of all that when I change that out, but in the mean time I will look into the wiring and see if I can see any thing out of the ordinary, maybe some loose, frayed, or generally bad wiring.

It seems to only do it when I am breaking heavily at a stop light that just turned or when I am coming over a hill and have to stop at a stop sign/light heading down hill. Ohh and when I initially start it in the morning it idles up and then wants to die until I pump the gas one time and it idles fine.

 

Got a question about EGR. Just might make a difference for me. The egr has been blocked off and I was wondering how to tell if it is sending a closed signal to the computer. I know if it is not it will mess with the computer and cause a bad mix.

 

You've got an interesting little problem on your hands. For S&G's, check the vacuum line going to your power brake booster for leaks, and while your at it, check your PCV valve vacuum line and the valve while your at it. Just because you can! My reason for looking at these vacuum lines is that they're both "big" vacuum lines and if they leak, they will cause your truck to run like crap.

Have a peek at your IAC wiring. Also, did you change the IAC gasket when you put the new one one? Could you have a vacuum leak at the base of the IAC where it bolts on?

I think that your next step really needs to be to pull your codes. See if you can beg, borrow or buy a code reader suitable for OBD1. If you can't get hold of one, try this: Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test This will show you how to read the codes by counting the number of times that your check engine light flashes. At the bottom of this webpage, there's a link to a page that shows you what the code numbers mean. If there are codes there, this will really help you to diagnose the issue, as so much of the diagnosing we're doing are kinda shots in the dark.

I'll post you back later this evening with how to check the TFI module.

 

Well I did happen to find a loose wire tonight while searching hard under the hood tonight it was tucked under the throttle body and it was connected to tps and ran to what looks to be another sensor that is low in the engine compartment on the drivers side in the front. I have no idea what it is until I look through my haynes manual and maybe I will be able to find out what it is, but anyways, could just be me but when I connected the wire to the rigged up job the previous owner did right there it seemed to actually idle better, but the truck runs off and on like that all the time it seems so only time will tell me if it will do this anymore. I will for sure let you know if it does or not and if it does not I will have to go get a code reader I guess. I checked all vacuum lines once again for the hundredth time and found nothing leaking. I really hope this cured it. I dont know if it will take the computer time to reset itself or not but I never did get a check engine light on this either, but i guess the computer can throw codes without turning the light on, so anyways. I will let you guys know if I find out what it was. FINGERS CROSSED.

 

I pull codes with an 11 dollar analog voltmeter and a piece of speaker wire or a paper clip haha.

And YES the computer can throw/store codes without turning on the light.

 

haha. I think being that I dont know what the heck I am doing. I might wanna go the easy route and use the standard tester myself... but thanks for the tip...

 

well I drove it today.. It still idles up and down, however I am positive that it is running better with my new found wire hooked up. Dont know why but its smoother now and more responsive on the throttle, but it still jumps on the idling . Man I will figure this out one of these days I know it.. HOPEFULLY..