Vent window seal removal
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 40
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From: Montreal, Canada
Vent window seal removal
Hey guys,
I was finishing stripping the doors on my truck from the paint and preparing to shoot some primer, when I realized that I should remove all the rubber seals before doing that (they need to be replaced). I'm having a bit of trouble completely removing them, since I can't reach some spots with a knife. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong. Any tips? Is the vent window column thing (here's a picture of it) removable? How?
Thanks! Maybe I should do a megathread once I'm done with the truck...
I was finishing stripping the doors on my truck from the paint and preparing to shoot some primer, when I realized that I should remove all the rubber seals before doing that (they need to be replaced). I'm having a bit of trouble completely removing them, since I can't reach some spots with a knife. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong. Any tips? Is the vent window column thing (here's a picture of it) removable? How?
Thanks! Maybe I should do a megathread once I'm done with the truck...
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
The rubber seal is riveted to the division bar.
New division bars and anti rattlers are available reproduction fro Dennis Carpenter.Purchase them assembled as there are special tools needed to assemble if you get the cheep ones.
You need to remove the bar to replace it. Also you will never reinstall new vent window rubbers with the vent frames still in the truck. There a PITA to do.
Garbz
New division bars and anti rattlers are available reproduction fro Dennis Carpenter.Purchase them assembled as there are special tools needed to assemble if you get the cheep ones.
You need to remove the bar to replace it. Also you will never reinstall new vent window rubbers with the vent frames still in the truck. There a PITA to do.
Garbz
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Canada
The rubber seal is riveted to the division bar.
New division bars and anti rattlers are available reproduction fro Dennis Carpenter.Purchase them assembled as there are special tools needed to assemble if you get the cheep ones.
You need to remove the bar to replace it. Also you will never reinstall new vent window rubbers with the vent frames still in the truck. There a PITA to do.
Garbz
New division bars and anti rattlers are available reproduction fro Dennis Carpenter.Purchase them assembled as there are special tools needed to assemble if you get the cheep ones.
You need to remove the bar to replace it. Also you will never reinstall new vent window rubbers with the vent frames still in the truck. There a PITA to do.
Garbz
I knew I was doing something wrong...any tips on removing the said bar? (I'll get the Dennis Carpenter stuff, thanks. I don't want to go down the El Cheapo path)
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
LOL, I like Patron......
There a biatch to get out.
the window needs to be removed then the crank. the remove the screws from the upper bar, the vent frame and the door.Move it a bit back and remove the vent frame and window. it sort of twists and comes out at an angle at the furthest point on the lower door opening. it is tight.
Look at the DC site and it has an article on installing new bars and anti rattlers. The kits come 2 ways, needing assembly and more expensive not needing assembly. For the extra 60 dead Washington's or loonies it is well worth it to not have the aggravation of peening rivets.
If you ever get to Arizona bring a spare bed! the Argentine truck kind. I would be happy to toss back a few shots of Patron Silver!
Garbz
There a biatch to get out.
the window needs to be removed then the crank. the remove the screws from the upper bar, the vent frame and the door.Move it a bit back and remove the vent frame and window. it sort of twists and comes out at an angle at the furthest point on the lower door opening. it is tight.
Look at the DC site and it has an article on installing new bars and anti rattlers. The kits come 2 ways, needing assembly and more expensive not needing assembly. For the extra 60 dead Washington's or loonies it is well worth it to not have the aggravation of peening rivets.
If you ever get to Arizona bring a spare bed! the Argentine truck kind. I would be happy to toss back a few shots of Patron Silver!
Garbz
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Canada
LOL, I like Patron......
There a biatch to get out.
the window needs to be removed then the crank. the remove the screws from the upper bar, the vent frame and the door.Move it a bit back and remove the vent frame and window. it sort of twists and comes out at an angle at the furthest point on the lower door opening. it is tight.
Look at the DC site and it has an article on installing new bars and anti rattlers. The kits come 2 ways, needing assembly and more expensive not needing assembly. For the extra 60 dead Washington's or loonies it is well worth it to not have the aggravation of peening rivets.
If you ever get to Arizona bring a spare bed! the Argentine truck kind. I would be happy to toss back a few shots of Patron Silver!
Garbz
There a biatch to get out.
the window needs to be removed then the crank. the remove the screws from the upper bar, the vent frame and the door.Move it a bit back and remove the vent frame and window. it sort of twists and comes out at an angle at the furthest point on the lower door opening. it is tight.
Look at the DC site and it has an article on installing new bars and anti rattlers. The kits come 2 ways, needing assembly and more expensive not needing assembly. For the extra 60 dead Washington's or loonies it is well worth it to not have the aggravation of peening rivets.
If you ever get to Arizona bring a spare bed! the Argentine truck kind. I would be happy to toss back a few shots of Patron Silver!
Garbz
And for the bed truck part, too bad I wasn't a member of this forum when I got her brought here. I had a crapload of space left inside the container I brought her in, and I'm sure they're dirt cheap once you convert US dollars to pesos hehehe. Getting one shipped alone would probably cost you an arm and a half though...
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 8
From: Clarksville,Tn
Just to add to Garbz comments' also pop off the anti-rattlers felt from window lip edge so your paint will flow into the area between the anti-rattlers as well. Use a flat tip screw driver or wooded dowl and pop the felts out.
Mitch
Mitch
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Montreal, Canada
If you're serious about this I can ask my aunt to look around for those beds. She can probably find one without too much rust. I can also write an e-mail to ford motors Argentina. Like I said, shipping is expensive, but if you really want it, I can be the hispanic middle man!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Dennis Carpenter has a 'how to' article; pic's included, on page 101 of their online pdf catalog. It's been some time since last ordered from them, they use to include a free hardcopy with an order, suggest request 1 if not.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Montreal, Canada
http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/pdf/57-66Truck2009.pdf
If posting this link is against forum rules, I will remove it. But, it's quite helpful.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Nice! p.102 now it seems. Thanks!
http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/pdf/57-66Truck2009.pdf
If posting this link is against forum rules, I will remove it. But, it's quite helpful.
http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/pdf/57-66Truck2009.pdf
If posting this link is against forum rules, I will remove it. But, it's quite helpful.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Canada
Booyah!
Success!
These were my sticking points
Yeah, that %$?&%?& screw that I didn't see because the crank was dirty. If you don't remove it, nothing can come out.
The screws are actually under the rubber. A pointy knife was really useful to remove all the rubber. Thanks all!
These were my sticking points
Yeah, that %$?&%?& screw that I didn't see because the crank was dirty. If you don't remove it, nothing can come out.
The screws are actually under the rubber. A pointy knife was really useful to remove all the rubber. Thanks all!
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
taking apart the doors is a chore if you are gonna be putting them back together...vs pulling stuff in a parts door...the sequence of removal and instalation is important as its basicly a big interlocking puzzle...the absolute last thing to go inside the door are the window sweepers at the bottom where you rest your arm with the window down.
I THINK I wrote a mega long post in extreme detail how to pull the doors apart...the screw that ties the vent frame retainer assy to the division bar is a #1 phillips...and as you now now, very well hidden. Getting the proper screwdrivers is a big key...Just dont rush it going back together. Patience pays off in that area bigtime...Also, with the door gutted, check to see if it has the common stress crack typically on the inside right at the division bar...perfect time to have it repaired along with the body work, etc.
- cs65
I THINK I wrote a mega long post in extreme detail how to pull the doors apart...the screw that ties the vent frame retainer assy to the division bar is a #1 phillips...and as you now now, very well hidden. Getting the proper screwdrivers is a big key...Just dont rush it going back together. Patience pays off in that area bigtime...Also, with the door gutted, check to see if it has the common stress crack typically on the inside right at the division bar...perfect time to have it repaired along with the body work, etc.
- cs65
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