Water Pump
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Bay Area, Calif
Water Pump
Hello everyone! I have a question for everyone. I have an 89 B2, 4X4, Manual transmission (FM146).
I installed a new water pump and torqued the bolts according to specs and the pump is leaking around 3 separate bolts. Anyhow, the gasket that came with the new pump is a piece and I should have just trusted my instinct on this one before installing the pump, but I didn't. Anyhow, is there a gasket out there that you might reccomend or do you think it might be OK to use a silicone instead (blue, orange, or black)? I am going to take it apart again, but hope this is the last time for a LONG time. Thanks everyone.
I installed a new water pump and torqued the bolts according to specs and the pump is leaking around 3 separate bolts. Anyhow, the gasket that came with the new pump is a piece and I should have just trusted my instinct on this one before installing the pump, but I didn't. Anyhow, is there a gasket out there that you might reccomend or do you think it might be OK to use a silicone instead (blue, orange, or black)? I am going to take it apart again, but hope this is the last time for a LONG time. Thanks everyone.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
> OK to use a silicone instead (blue, orange, or black)?
They make one just for anti-freeze. Put a skim coat on the pump and on the block and into the bolt holes and then right under the bolt head (comes in a little tube) before you torque it down. You have to use good n tight without breaking the bolts (major hassle).
I might put some anti-seize with a Q-tip inside the threads on the block, BUT, I can't remember if it is this engine or the Chr. 318 that requires RTV on the bolt threads so it does not leak.
They make one just for anti-freeze. Put a skim coat on the pump and on the block and into the bolt holes and then right under the bolt head (comes in a little tube) before you torque it down. You have to use good n tight without breaking the bolts (major hassle).
I might put some anti-seize with a Q-tip inside the threads on the block, BUT, I can't remember if it is this engine or the Chr. 318 that requires RTV on the bolt threads so it does not leak.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, Calif
They make one just for anti-freeze. Put a skim coat on the pump and on the block and into the bolt holes and then right under the bolt head (comes in a little tube) before you torque it down. You have to use good n tight without breaking the bolts (major hassle).
I might put some anti-seize with a Q-tip inside the threads on the block, BUT, I can't remember if it is this engine or the Chr. 318 that requires RTV on the bolt threads so it does not leak.[/quote]
What do you mean by "use good n tight without breaking the bolts." Is "good n tight" a type of chemical or RTV (like "lock tight" or did you mean that I have to put the bolts back in good n tight as in how I torque them down? Also, I want to make sure that I was clear in my original post, I plan on NOT using the paper thin (looks thinner than cereal box card board) gasket and instead using ONLY silicone/RTV...you feel this would be OK (and of course, RTV on the bolt threads like you suggest). Thank you Robocardo!
I might put some anti-seize with a Q-tip inside the threads on the block, BUT, I can't remember if it is this engine or the Chr. 318 that requires RTV on the bolt threads so it does not leak.[/quote]
What do you mean by "use good n tight without breaking the bolts." Is "good n tight" a type of chemical or RTV (like "lock tight" or did you mean that I have to put the bolts back in good n tight as in how I torque them down? Also, I want to make sure that I was clear in my original post, I plan on NOT using the paper thin (looks thinner than cereal box card board) gasket and instead using ONLY silicone/RTV...you feel this would be OK (and of course, RTV on the bolt threads like you suggest). Thank you Robocardo!
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