Yeah and the factory hanger only has 4 bolts

 

I think he meant the super long U bolts.

 

yeah.... 10 3/8" grade 8 bolts. I'd have no problem trusting that!

 

No he said hanger bolts. As far as the UBOLTS in the pictures, they are for mockup, to see exactly how much block I needed. Traction blocks are being built as we speak, and will be installed with 3/4" UBOLTS,

 

Mods... Im not here to push my products, if you find my post inappropriate, please feel free to edit it as you feel necessary.

Members... Im not here to argue or get in a forum fight with anyone. I build and refine my parts based of you alls input. Im not deaf to suggestions and opinions like some companies. You all have some of the best "untainted" feedback, so Im more than happy to listen!!

In regaurds to the 3/8"s bolts not being strong enough... Although it a appears to be a week point, it is not. First off, take into account the design of the bracket. The factory bracket is rivet to the side of the bracket. So the entire load of the spring is put directly onto the hanger rivets. My bracket is designed to wrap around the side of the frame and rests on the bottom of the frame rail. So in effect, force is applied to frame itself, instead of the bolts themselves.

BUT, lets leave this part of the design out of the equation, as if it did not exist. Factory, the hangers are held in place with six 1/2" rivets. This equates to a total of surface area of 1.1781 of fastener. While ten 3/8" bolts offer a total surface area of 1.1045. Although the bolts offer a VERY slight difference, they are also grade 8. Frame hot rivets in automotive applications are not heat treated. So in actuality, the fastening strength of the bolts is far greater than the hot rivets.

On initial glance, I would have prefered to use 1/2" hardware. However I took into account the fact that I would prefer my products could be installed by average shade tree mechanics without too much hassle. The most common household drill has a 3/8" chuck. So using 1/2" hardware and expecting the at home guy to drill 1/2" holes would be difficult. Do-able.... yes.

So... I hope I have helped some.... Cheers everybody!! Back to welding for me!!!

 

Welcome to FTE NotStockPMF!

 

How much do these brackets run?

 

Well my PMF Traction Blocks are on the way. I'll do a write up on the install when they go on. Here are a couple of pics of the blocks:

 

My 10" traction blocks came in today. I snapped a quick pic on the way out the door tonight. Put a drink can next to it for size comparison.

 

Why do those entire traction block kits cost? This is one of the cooled ideas I've heard so far... my e99's ride sucks and the fact I've got 5" thick springs don't help.

SUBSCRIBED!!!

 

i have a 2005 f250. and i just bought for $400, a 2008 8'' fabtch lift, and it came with a pair of 5'' lift leaf springs for the rear. could you tell me how i can get those hangers?

 

Contact Trevor at HOME - Precision Metal Fab.

 

I HAVE A 2002 FORD EXCURSION AND WAS WONDERING IF THESE HANGER MOUNTS WOULD WORK ON MINE ?.

 

Got my hangers and doing a swap on a 2000 F250. Doing the math on the OG leafs pack and the new 2008 leafs pack it looks like 1 inch or just under is what will be lost in ride height.
Is this correct and will a 2" block compensate enough for the +-1 inch in the springs and give a little rise in the rear? I am just worried about the potential sag and the 2inches inches being enough to keep my rear up or level.
I know this is an old thread, thanks for all the info thus far.