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I vote weld or spool the rear and locker for the front if you don't go selectable for both ends...
I personally do not like an automatic locker in the rear period, in some traction situations they can become very unpredictable, and it's really nice to know that the tail end of the truck is going to do the same thing every time.
With the intended tire size, not too abusive use of the skinny pedal will keep things alive for a long time.
That said, go much bigger, and it's a whole different ballgame, you really have to think about what you're doing and how much power you really need...
I have watched a welded TTB eat axles on a regular basis with 35's, and, I know a guy that runs an open 10 bolt with a 454 and 44 tsls, and has only broken 3 axles in the last 3 years...
It's all in how you drive it. Personally I went D60 when I went to 38.5x11 boggers, because I like to be able to plant the skinny pedal and not worry about things breaking...
Now with 44's, I'm kind of glad it's still open... It's going to get geared and locked, and once that happens, it's probably only a matter of time before I go to RCV cv axles....
Nighthawk (mind if I call you Jackhawk9000?),
35sp shafts for a 44? Not sure, never looked. Id search on Pirate.
If you need to machine the housing, buy a new carrier (not just swap the spider gears), buy the shafts ujoints and hubs, set up gears and all the other crapola youd be much better off and certainly cheaper building a stock 60.
lol, sure but may I ask why the 9000?
Yeah, its cheaper and easier to do the 60, just like its easier to buy a bronco or jeep to wheel rather than use a full-size.....but pulling up to a guy out in the middle of nowhere with a jeep with 44s and have him look at you like "how the @%#@*& did you get that up here" is too priceless
Pauls SD and his Dads 89(I think thats the year) F350 didnt have any trouble in Rausch Creek so I think the "fullsize is too big on a trail" thing is a mute point. I dont think I wouldve had much trouble with George either but Paul and I probably wouldnt be here today. 6000lbs of truck melting in a pool of 110 octane at the bottom of a God forsaken PA mountain FTMFL!
IMO there is a huge difference between taking the cheap and easy way out and building it smart with as little money and effort as possible.
he's sticking to 35's and his 351, but on another note, who the hell doesn't know about the jackhawk 9000? he probably doesn't know about the packs of wild dogs that are taking over cities either.
.....but pulling up to a guy out in the middle of nowhere with a jeep with 44s and have him look at you like "how the @%#@*& did you get that up here" is too priceless
Yeah I love that S&^! when I'm wheel'n my Crew-Cab Long Box in the dense muddy forests here in the WA. I do carry a chain saw though
Yup, there really is one big problem though, I'm so darn heavy and when I get stuck I'm really stuck. So nobody else can just hook up and pull me out, I have to do it on my own with winches and such and it's never easy, I even pulled a tree over last time.
They do love having me in the lead though, I never have any problem pulling them along they never have to work at it.
Pauls SD and his Dads 89(I think thats the year) F350 didnt have any trouble in Rausch Creek so I think the "fullsize is too big on a trail" thing is a mute point. I dont think I wouldve had much trouble with George either but Paul and I probably wouldnt be here today. 6000lbs of truck melting in a pool of 110 octane at the bottom of a God forsaken PA mountain FTMFL!
IMO there is a huge difference between taking the cheap and easy way out and building it smart with as little money and effort as possible.
what size tires and engine again?
95
and those weren't exactly hard trails we were on, a lot of the stuff up there requires small trucks.. the biggest I'd go in a "trail rig" is FSB, and even that is too wide for some trails, but the wheelbase is pretty good.
Before I put the 44s on my wheeler it was 6500 pounds. I don't know what it is now, but I wouldn't trade the length for anything shorter. I love the size of it, if I can't make it through a spot, I don't need to go there. Lol. But when I get stuck, it seems to be a couple Hour job to get it out, and a guarantee that something is going to be broke when it gets out. It is nice using it to pull other peoples **** around tho.
You can't beat a Powr-Loc in a front 60. It won't break anything on the trails and mine always spins both tires. I have one in my rear 70U also and it will chirp the tires on the pavement when turning sharp, but I have tweeked the clutches a little.
he's sticking to 35's and his 351, but on another note, who the hell doesn't know about the jackhawk 9000? he probably doesn't know about the packs of wild dogs that are taking over cities either.
lol, I haven't seen that movie in a year, I had completely forgot.
Yes, sticking to my 351W and 35s, with a mild build on the engine maybe next year
I also wasn't meaning that I thought it was the cheap and easy way, I just don't see the need for it with the equipment I'm running....maybe in a year or so when I start breaking parts like you guys are telling me I will you can rub it in my nose then hows that?
ok, what's the difference between a power-lock and a trac-lock. I was able to get a trac-lock carrier to work with the 4.10s for $50 (local j-yard owner is good friend) and I want to re-do the clutches before I put it in....I've heard of people adding a few extra clutches to get more hookup, so I'm looking at these
The power-loc is a totaly different critter that has a 2-peice carrier housing, 4 spider pinions as oposed to the normal 2, and a ramp system to apply pressure on the clutches. Trac-loc is the popular stock type Ford posi, which is just a normal open with the clutches added. No the clutches do not interchange.
Here's a good link on the D44 Trac-loc http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5313-3.pdf Lot's of people add to the clutch pack to tighten them up, I can't remember right now exactly how but I'm sure the info is out there, and likely will be up to you on how tight your willing to risk and how many you can get in there and still get it together.
power locs if i remember right give somewhere in the neighborhood of a 80-90ish percent lockup between the axles, damn near a locker. track locs don't really hold any lock up other than in a straight line, and even then it is way less of a percentage, i believe in the range of 60% lock up. if i had to choose between the two, i would definitely go power-lok.
*my numbers are probably off, but power locs are a brazilion times stronger and function better.
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