Yeah, I thought of that as well, so I did get a couple other sets of just standards.....I'l see how they all hold up once its up and rolling. I started carrying spares after last year, when a busted hub led to a 20 mile hike back to civilization.....I was being stupid and out wheeling by myself with my g/f trying to see how far we could go up the mtn and ended up completely blowing out my passenger side hub apart.

 

i don't really buy into the weak link hub idea because if it goes at high wheel speed, you end up with a shock load to the rest of the axle if it is locked, which in my mind could lead to pinion deflection and busted ring and pinions.

if you are dead set on a selectable front, i suggest you leave it unlocked until you need it for sure to eliminate breakage. everyone's driving style and idea of wheeling is different, so what some people break on a regular basis, you may be able to make last for years.

 

^^^oooh good point, I hadn't thought of that, thanks for the info.

As far as my use for the locker, that was the original plan, I don't drive too hard with the skinny pedal unless it absolutely requires it, which most times it doesn't anyways.

SO (thanks Dan for hitting on this)........JUST SAY........I have 1 ton running gear, or rockwells for that matter and I don't have to worry about axle breakage, what are some other arguments for Front vs. Rear lockers?

 

well, even on trails if your front is locked it will cause binding and steering issues when locked in. i am a big fan of rear lockers in general because with throttle control you can whip the assend around where you want to, to an extent, essentially "rear steering". with the front locked you will be pulling the truck, which is an awkward feeling at first for some one used to rwd. i live in illinois where the winters are pretty rough and usually long. i used to dd an 85 with a locked rear and a true trac front. it was not the easiest to drive in 4x in light snow and ice, but being that i was an enthusiast and used to my trucks quirks, it wasn't a problem after a few times out.

so my advice: buy a detroit for the rear, first. it is cheaper, and you will be that much closer to having enough cash for the front selectable. DETROIT FTMFW!!!!

 

Ok, so you convinced me here, sounds like rear (at least at first) is the way to go......SO....next quick question....do you guys (probably not because you're all 1ton guys) think that running 35 spline shafts are worth it? or will the 31 splines be ok?

 

building up half ton axles is all up to you. i am toying around with that option for my new bronco, but for the cost, you could find a set of stock one tons and be set for many many miles of abuse without issue.

what are your plans and goals for this truck? do you plan to stick to 35's? if not, save the cash and go 1 tons. your 351 probably isn't pumping out crazy hp, and you said you try to be smart with the skinny pedal, so chromo shafts and super joints will probably live for quite a while with the 35's if that is what you plan to run.

just sit back and think about what you want to accomplish with this truck, and be honest with yourself. if you want 40's and more power, skip the half tons. if 35's are your max, build what you have. a little planning goes a long way in the pocketbook, as well as the time saved not dicking around with the wrong parts.

 

As far as my plans, yes I do plan on sticking with 35s, maybe get a set of 36s later, but I can't justify heavier axles for a tire thats one inch taller.

As far as aggressiveness, it is going to stay being my DD, so I just keep good Mud Terrain Tires on it (get a new set of Firestone Destination M/Ts on Tuesday, so I won't be putting on TSLs or anything heavy like them.

Engine modifications planned: MAF conversion, GT40 Heads, my true dual exhaust, and a good cam

I don't plan on running anything bigger as far as tires, and my planned engine mods shouldn't put too many more ponies and ft-lbs out there, so that's why I am set on building up half ton stuff, I don't see the need for me to have 1ton running gear.

As far as planning, no truer words have been spoken...kind of a "build what you want the first time so you don't continuously throw money at it" kinda thing. Rep sent

Thanks

 

It doesn't really work like that, the axles aren't that solid, more like torsion bars. Your not going to break an ARB or d44 ring gear with 36" and a 351. You just can't put any more stress on an axle then you can get traction.

If your gunna drive it like a mad man to the point where anything like this is a posibilty then your gunna break the rear 9" also. The 9" is plenty strong but does not handle shock loads well and can break the ring/pinion. The D44 and 9" are pretty similar in ring and pinion strength.

By the way did you swap in the 9"? What did you do about the speed sensor?

Yes 35 sline shafts are worth it both front and rear, if you really wanna put the ARB to work. With stronger shafts you can comfortably use the ARB in more(higher traction) situations, remember with an ARB your spooled when it's engaged. With weaker axles it's less of a good idea to engage it on the street, but with stonger axles you can use it safely in more situations. Like say pulling boat up a boat ramp and turning.

I ran a spool(welded) in the back of my DD work truck for a while and was pleasently surprised how long the stock 31 spline axles lasted but they did eventually break, all the spring action on them as they build up and release just wore them out and one actualy broke under a rather light situation. But at one point I pulled/hauled a 13k load up a steep hill while turning at full lock on dry pavement and they didn't break.

You gotta think of your axles less like solid rods and more like springs, they will bend/twist under stress even more so chomoly ones. But that stress will add up and eventually wear them out till they break.

 

Yes I swapped in the 9"....on my truck, the speedo sensor for mine is a new (well 4 years old now) autometer electric unit in the transfer case, and the "rear antilock" had always put me in more situations than it kept me out of, so finding a way to keep it running wasn't important to me. Yes I know its potentially dangerous, but I've gone two years now with it in, and have had 0 braking problems.

They make 35 spline shafts for a D44?

 

Good job on the 9", I'm always recomending that to people, I am let's say not a fan of the 8.8 or any C-clip axles. In your year was the speedo in the case already or did you have to swap the tail housing and install a gear?

Not sure about 35 spline axles for a d44, haven't looked hard recently, but there's alot of stuff out there. Wasn't sure if your question was about the front or rear but basically it's a good idea for both if you can get the parts.

If you have strong axles the weak link in the 9" becomes the R&P, like I said they seam to have a problem with shock loads though I haven't seen that myself. I have seen them however tear themselves apart getting hot when hauling heavy loads for long distances. Of course they do better then a 8.8 but if you intend to haul alot put in good synthetic, and consider a cooler.

 

No, the speedo was in the case already, just set up for a mechanical speedo that I replaced for a programmable electronic one, that way, any time I change gearing or tire size, it takes like 5 minutes to reprogram the speedo and have an accurate reading (pretty important I think for a DD).

I think I saw something about 35 Spline axles for a D44 a few years back in a Petersens 4wheel and off road, but I think you have to get the housing modified to take larger carrier bearings to work with larger shafts.

I will be putting in a good synthetic for the rear, just for the added protection...but this truck won't be a hauler...she is only an F150 and she's got prerunner springs in her so big loads really drop the rear end down.

 

Locker in the rear 1st. I dont know how much hill climbing or rock crawling you do, but if your going up an incline then alot more weight is getting transferred to the rear then you think and having the locker back there will be much more helpful.

I went with a 1-ton rear and it is so nice to know that im never gonna break it. It a 10.25 and was a direct swap other then drive shaft length. Its gonna get an arb, then the front d44ttb will get a LS until i find a d60 for it. But all that has been put on hold till i have more time and money.

 

That is a very wrong statement. I have broke EVERY possible thing in a 9 inch, and have NEVER broke the R&P in one. The stock third member is the weak link.(With upgraded shafts) I have tossed pinions out of the front of them, tossed carriers out of the back of them. In both of those instances the R&P where unhurt. I've broke axle shafts, carriers, spools, minispools, bent housings, but never a R&P.


I too would put a locker in the rear first. With the 9 in, I had really good luck with a lockright. It was only that when I put 39.5s on it that I had issues. But a full detroit is the best way to go.

 

^^^ agreed!


Nighthawk (mind if I call you Jackhawk9000?),
35sp shafts for a 44? Not sure, never looked. Id search on Pirate.


If you need to machine the housing, buy a new carrier (not just swap the spider gears), buy the shafts ujoints and hubs, set up gears and all the other crapola youd be much better off and certainly cheaper building a stock 60.

 

Fair enough, I should have said carrier assembly, but I HAVE broken a 9" R&P. Broken may not be the best word, it seams to have been a combination of heat and continous stress that weekend it, then the next romp took the teath off, not a single hard load, but I sure did destroy the the darn thing. Probably why so many race cars that use the 9" have coolers.