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So I decided to go ahead and start getting the ball joints torn apart while I am waiting on the parts to get here. I am down to the point where I am trying to get the spindle off and I can tell the top one is loose because I can wiggle the unit up and down but the bottom seems to be the caught one. I have beat on the pickle fork to death and I am beginning to think the pickle fork I had was to small, I am going to check tomorrow at the parts store for a bigger one. I have used great amounts of PB on the bottom one also. Any other ideas on how to brake the bottom one loose.
When I needed to replace mine, I took it to a mechanic and gladly paid him his fare for that service. I don't normally back down from that type of work, but I was in the middle of my busy season and he could finish it in one day and I could drop it off in the morning and pick it up on the way home. The mechanic also was a client of mine as well, but I still paid him his rate, because I fully understand the headache of changing out ball joints. I have replaced two front suspensions on vehicles in the late eighties early nineties and did not want to go through that again. So I paid to have it done. It did cost me around $750 for parts and labor. My hat is off to you for tackling such a project yourself.
I don't use a pickle fork to remove the ball joints. I just turn the spindle to one side and hit the side of the eye where stem goes through with big hammer and out it pops. I have done 3 sets in the last year including my own. I bought my own ball joint press with adaptors and seal driver. The money from doing the 2 other jobs paid for the tools and parts, so mine was basicly free.
( I don't use a pickle fork to remove the ball joints. I just turn the spindle to one side and hit the side of the eye where stem goes through with big hammer and out it pops. I have done 3 sets in the last year including my own. I bought my own ball joint press with adaptors and seal driver. The money from doing the 2 other jobs paid for the tools and parts, so mine was basicly free.
this is what i do and i do ball joints on all kinds of things. I just turn the spindle to one side and hit the side of the eye where stem goes through with too hamers i place my trustee 32oz ball pine hammer on eye and i hit 4 lbs adjuster hammer ( baby sluge ) and if that dont work i turn the wheels the other way and do it agen and so on .........
( I don't use a pickle fork to remove the ball joints. I just turn the spindle to one side and hit the side of the eye where stem goes through with big hammer and out it pops. I have done 3 sets in the last year including my own. I bought my own ball joint press with adaptors and seal driver. The money from doing the 2 other jobs paid for the tools and parts, so mine was basicly free.
this is what i do and i do ball joints on all kinds of things. I just turn the spindle to one side and hit the side of the eye where stem goes through with too hamers i place my trustee 32oz ball pine hammer on eye and i hit 4 lbs adjuster hammer ( baby sluge ) and if that dont work i turn the wheels the other way and do it agen and so on .........
+ another.
Once you figure out the hammer trick you'll rarely use pickle forks again. I only use them for steering stuff if I can't get a good swing w/ a hammer.
A 3+ pound ball peen does pretty good, deadblow even better. Don't be afraid to give it several good whacks, once you try it will pop right off. I leave the nut on a couple turns so the knucke doesn't fall all the way off. With a proper ball joint press ( I use the OMC/tool truck one that looks like a giant c-clamp) I can do a full set of ball joints in about 4 hours. If I had a lift and air maybe 3 hours.
I don't use a pickle fork to remove the ball joints. I just turn the spindle to one side and hit the side of the eye where stem goes through with big hammer and out it pops. I have done 3 sets in the last year including my own. I bought my own ball joint press with adaptors and seal driver. The money from doing the 2 other jobs paid for the tools and parts, so mine was basicly free.
Are you not worried about mushrooming the threaded area and then it not fitting down thru the axle end or maybe I am not understanding where you are hitting it. I have the ball joint press and seal driver for once I get the knuckle off the truck.
Are you not worried about mushrooming the threaded area and then it not fitting down thru the axle end or maybe I am not understanding where you are hitting it. I have the ball joint press and seal driver for once I get the knuckle off the truck.
That's why you leave the nut on.
I loosen the nut to that it is flush with the end of the threads or maybe with the nut standing a little taller than the end of the threads.
Never have the threads sticking up higher than the end of the nut.
It gives you a perfect striking surface that you can wail on with all your strength.
Once the taper lets go the nut catches the weight of everything and it's a simple matter of removing the nut.
That's why you leave the nut on.
I loosen the nut to that it is flush with the end of the threads or maybe with the nut standing a little taller than the end of the threads.
Never have the threads sticking up higher than the end of the nut.
It gives you a perfect striking surface that you can wail on with all your strength.
Once the taper lets go the nut catches the weight of everything and it's a simple matter of removing the nut.
That bottom one is a little harder to get to that way, I can see more brute force is needed. My ball joints were really loose. I have the top where it will wiggle up and down pretty good but the taper will not move on the bottom but the spindle will go up and down a good 1/8 or so. I sprayed it with PB again this morning and will pound on it again tonight
I used a smaller floor jack on the bottom one to put some pressure on it then just whacked the eye that it goes through on the side. With the pressure of the truck and a good hit, it just popped loose. Don't raise the truck any just put enough pressure that it is pushing on it when you hit the lower eye.
Don't hit the ball joint, hit the knuckle beside where the tapered part of the joint goes. You want to hit it perpendicular to the joint. I know it doesn't make sense know, but it works really well.
Well after some friendly persuasion, a little heat, a bigger pickle and good hammer taps both knuckles came off the axle. The ball joints also came out of the knuckle and now I am just waiting on parts. Hopefully it goes together quicker than it came apart. I need to use the thing.
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