This is going to be long so I can give as many details as possible.
We have a 2001 F-250 Super Duty with the 7.3 PSD. We now have 55,000 miles on her. We are the original owners. Have always had regular maintenance completed around the 3,000 mile mark. The only mod's is a kill switch that was installed when the truck was 3 months old. A few months ago our truck started Turning Stupid when the SES light came on.
When I do a Cold Start it runs very crappy - the RPM's are at 700; then the exhaust starts sucking air after 3-4 minutes of running. Normally it boosts the RPM's UP to around 1k. Now it tries to get to the 1k but backs off to between 500-600 RPM's but keeps trying until the engine warms.
At town driving speeds it seems to be okay after it has warmed up. But highway driving it wants to run rough, has some loss of power.*It will get to 70 mph but it has a miss* or vibration getting there.
It seems everything we read could be the problem. We live about 130 miles from a dealer so getting there is not easy. In fact the dealer said when this began "The truck is getting old" That was at 53,500 miles
The vibration after shifting feels like not enough fuel or something is plugged up. We have not lost any of our fuel mileage.
The SES light is still on. We have drained and replaced the fuel filter because the Water in Fuel light flashed. We do add Power Services at each fuel up and it is still running crappy.
We have replaced the CPS again and that did not help.
Anyone with ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I realize that she is getting old and has "Lot's of miles" on her according to the dealer - but I just need to get her running right again. I know she has lot's of miles left in her.
Thank you,
CosmoStarr

 

Welcome to the site! As far as your dealer saying your truck is getting old, Hmmm... time to find someone else to look after your truck.. They are several things that could cause the problems you decribe, including bad fuel, lack of fuel, bad IPR, bad ICP, and the list goes on. A code reader would narrow it down. You can unplug the ICP and start it, if it idles better, time for a new one.

 

Welcome to FTE. My truck with 331,000 miles on it runs like a dream. Wanna trade?

We can try and help you diagnose this, but the simple fact remains that, since the SES light has been on, there is a code stored in your PCM that will give you a good clue as to what needs to be addressed.

I don't know where you're from, but most code readers won't pull codes from these engines. Some private diesel shops will have the right equipment. I'd avoid the dealership rates if I were you. You can also check places like Craigslist and ebay for a tuner that can read codes. Some tuners from Edge or Diablo can read codes on these trucks and can be found pretty cheap used.

Now to try and help with your issues, what is the outside temp when this is happening? Is the engine oil level full? Your description makes it sound like the weather is cold and you've got the romps, then the high idle tries to kick in due to the cold. The exhaust sucking air would be your EBPV closing, but that's a cold weather item.

Did you notice anything when the water in fuel (WIF) light flashed? Did the truck cut out, stumble, or act funny when the light came on, or did it just flash on and off?

 

I'm with Chris -- Something is up with the EBPV (Exhaust Back-Pressure Valve for cold-weather warm up). Get those codes read ASAP. Where are you located? There's bound to be someone close that can read them for you on here...

 

The fluctuating idle when cold is a plugged EBPV. Do this and it will fix it - I had the same issue: Welcome to guzzle's Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Cleaning Maintenance Web Page

 

No!! Your truck is old!! Just give it to me and I will junk it for you!!

OK, enough of being silly. Your exhaust back pressure valve is sticking. When it sticks, or is activated, it makes some funny noises. Most of us have them disconnected, as they really aren't necessary unless you plan to go work on the ice roads this winter in Canada or Alaska. Guzzles maintenance that Ponyboychris posted should get it taken care of. You should however get the codes checked, and cleared.

BTW, Welcome to FTE. There is a lot more knowledge here what you will find at most dealers. If you ain't afraid of getting dirty, we can very likely get it fixed for you. If you don't like to get dirty, we can at least give you some knowledge as to what to ask the dealer/mechanic that you have work on your truck.

 

Okay I am hoping to do this in one reply Will put quoted text in blue. Thank you all for the prompt reply's and welcomes.

I told the dealer that said the truck was old that he obviously did not know diesels - and that I was not interested in buying a new one TYVM.

We are in AZ between Kingman and Seligman. Basically in the middle of nowhere Plan on having the codes read the next time we are in Las Vegas at J & S Diesel. They were too backed up when we were there last week. But would rather have it fixed before we have to go back to Vegas.

Your description makes it sound like the weather is cold and you've got the romps, then the high idle tries to kick in due to the cold. The exhaust sucking air would be your EBPV closing, but that's a cold weather item.
When this problem started - it was after a week of snow and freezing temperatures. The week before the snow we had just had the oil changed and purchased fuel at a station we do not normally use. We did not go anywhere so the truck was not even started. Then we had to make a trip to Las Vegas, started the truck and let it warm up before we took off. Drove about a mile and as we were turning to get onto I-40 the SES light came on and the truck started running rough. When we got into Boulder City, we were thinking we had picked up bad fuel - so stopped and drained and replaced the fuel filter and dumped in some Power Services. Did not see any water in the fuel. Neither changed anything.

We have experienced the CPS being bad before - so we changed that next. Again this did not correct anything. We did unplug the ICP while the truck was running and that did not make any difference. So will try the unplug the ICP and start it, if it idles better, time for a new one. tomorrow. Q: can you safely drive the truck with the ICP unplugged?

Did you notice anything when the water in fuel (WIF) light flashed? Did the truck cut out, stumble, or act funny when the light came on, or did it just flash on and off?The WIF light only came on and then went right off and that was when we were starting the truck. The truck did not do anything different when it did. And it has not come back on since.

Thank you for the link to Welcome to guzzle's Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Cleaning Maintenance Web Page I have bookmarked it.

Now to try and help with your issues, what is the outside temp when this is happening? Is the engine oil level full? Your description makes it sound like the weather is cold and you've got the romps, then the high idle tries to kick in due to the cold. The exhaust sucking air would be your EBPV closing, but that's a cold weather item. We live in the desert but are above 4500' altitude. We do not get a whole lot of snow but did have some much later than expected this year. But we are well past any cold temps now. And it is still running the same. Oil is fresh and full - we only use Rotella 15/40.


Your exhaust back pressure valve is sticking. When it sticks, or is activated, it makes some funny noises. Most of us have them disconnected, as they really aren't necessary unless you plan to go work on the ice roads this winter in Canada or Alaska. Q: If it is not really needed - how then do I disconnect or get rid of it? Do you just unplug it? I assure you there is no Ice Road driving planned.

Think I answered everything.

 

Subscribing and welcome to FTE.

 

not sure if it will fix your problem but I unplugged my ebpv sensor and continue to drive my truck every winter in alaska w/ no noticable problems.

In my experience the romps are related to weak batteries, low oil, or weak glowplugs/faulty relay.

 

You can unplug the EBPV on the turbo pedistal.It will set a soft code (047X) but not the light
I would lean more toward an electrical problem than the EBPV
UVCH?
Is the tin nut tight on the IPR?

 

When mine romped it wasn't related to any of that

 

NEWBIE ALERT. What does IPR stand for and where might it be located at?

 

My romps only happened when it was below 20 degrees or so and I fixed it with Rotella Synth oil 5w-40.

 

"unplug the ICP and start it, if it idles better, time for a new one." Is this best done on a Cold Start or a Warm Start?

Would weak batteries make it run like crap going down the road and giving it more throttle? Just realized our batteries were 3 years old in March. This problem started on 01 February 2010.

 

I don't think so. 3 years isn't that old, and once your running you should be running although voltage.