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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 02:48 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jcrammell
NEWBIE ALERT. What does IPR stand for and where might it be located at?
Internal Pressure Regulator. It is located on the back side of the HPOP, (high pressure oil pump) on the bottom. Not the easiest to see, but it's down in the valley.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 08:22 PM
  #17  
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Unplugging the ICP will work warm or cold. You can't drive it that way, but idling is fine.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 12:25 AM
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Thumbs up Great Pictorial Information

Originally Posted by zx250
Unplugging the ICP will work warm or cold. You can't drive it that way, but idling is fine.
Thank you. That is what I needed to know.
Will unplug it and then start the truck and see if there is a difference. I did unplug it once after the truck was running and there was no change.

But the problem is not really at idle - it is while driving. It does sound like a thrashing machine when it starts though. Feel kind of sorry for the neighbors (we live in a RV park) when we have to start it early in the morning. It did not used to sound like that.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 12:33 AM
  #19  
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Question

Originally Posted by rbaker6336
You can unplug the EBPV on the turbo pedistal.It will set a soft code (047X) but not the light
I would lean more toward an electrical problem than the EBPV
UVCH?
Is the tin nut tight on the IPR?
What and where is the UVCH?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 12:36 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by CampSpringsJohn
Internal Pressure Regulator. It is located on the back side of the HPOP, (high pressure oil pump) on the bottom. Not the easiest to see, but it's down in the valley.
Close. You got 2 out of 3. Its Injector Pressure Regulator. It works along with the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) to regulate the oil pressure used to fire the injectors.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 12:41 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by CosmoStarr
What and where is the UVCH?
Its the Under Valve Cover Harness. If you look at the top center of each valve cover, you'll see a connector with 9 wires running into the valve cover gasket. Under the valve cover is another harness that connects to the individual injectors and glow plugs. That connector has a tendency to work itself loose and cause issue. It can be take care of with two quarters. Here's a link to the "50 cent" mod https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-cent-mod.html Post #13 has a great picture of the finished product. If you read further down in that thread, it also lists some things to torque down while you've got the covers off, plus the steps necessary to pull the covers (post 21).
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:32 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by CosmoStarr
This is going to be long so I can give as many details as possible.
Originally Posted by CosmoStarr
We have a 2001 F-250 Super Duty with the 7.3 PSD. We now have 55,000 miles on her. We are the original owners. Have always had regular maintenance completed around the 3,000 mile mark. The only mod's is a kill switch that was installed when the truck was 3 months old. A few months ago our truck started Turning Stupid when the SES light came on.
When I do a Cold Start it runs very crappy - the RPM's are at 700; then the exhaust starts sucking air after 3-4 minutes of running. Normally it boosts the RPM's UP to around 1k. Now it tries to get to the 1k but backs off to between 500-600 RPM's but keeps trying until the engine warms.
At town driving speeds it seems to be okay after it has warmed up. But highway driving it wants to run rough, has some loss of power.*It will get to 70 mph but it has a miss* or vibration getting there.
It seems everything we read could be the problem. We live about 130 miles from a dealer so getting there is not easy. In fact the dealer said when this began "The truck is getting old" That was at 53,500 miles
The vibration after shifting feels like not enough fuel or something is plugged up. We have not lost any of our fuel mileage.
The SES light is still on. We have drained and replaced the fuel filter because the Water in Fuel light flashed. We do add Power Services at each fuel up and it is still running crappy.
We have replaced the CPS again and that did not help.
Anyone with ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I realize that she is getting old and has "Lot's of miles" on her according to the dealer - but I just need to get her running right again. I know she has lot's of miles left in her.
Thank you,
CosmoStarr


I've finally had a chance to read this thread in full and it really sounds to me like the plug has come loose inside the valve cover.
It's a very simple job, pulling the valve covers, no different than a gas engine.
I'll go find some pictures after this post.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:47 AM
  #23  
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Taken from when I did my engine.
What you will see after you pull the valve cover and remove the gasket assembly and wiring harness.



This is with the gasket assembly and wiring harness installed.




I gave myself a P1316 IDM code by accidentally knocking this plug off a while back.
The edge of the valve cover caught the little bale, unlocked it and pushed the plug off.
I didn't realize what had happened and when I got finished, started it up the truck had a dead miss and a SES light.
But don't say anything because that sort of clumsiness never happens to a professional mechanic.



What you need to check for on yours, however, is to make sure that the big center plug on the inside has not lost the tension on it's clip and then started to work it's way loose.
It's a very common issue with these engines and the cure is the 50 cent mod.
Take two quarters and cut them like so and install them inside the retainer clip inside the valve cover.

 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:49 AM
  #24  
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Also, while you are in there, make sure that you retorque the rocker arm pedastals to 20 foot pounds.
Retorque the injector hold down bolts to 120 inch pounds.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 10:26 AM
  #25  
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Welcome to the forum.

and your truck is not old.... heck, it is almost broke in....

Many Auto parts places can read your codes for you will not charge you. There may be an issue with a standard OB II reader not working to read the codes though. Mine does not work on my truck, but I have a truck programer that reads the codes.

These guys are great here and will walk you through what issues you have. It should be a simple fix... and as a group, we will find it.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 06:35 PM
  #26  
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Wink Update

Okay - Unplugged the EBPV and took the truck for a short 6 mile drive.
Up and down hill. It seems to be much better - has more power. SES light still on but no longer sounds like a thrashing machine when starting. Will take it for a longer 30 - 35 mile drive tomorrow.

Qo I need to tape over the plug or just let it hang down?

Did notice that the EBPV sensor tube that hangs down was very black inside and could not see through it.

NEXT Q: What is the sensor plug that is next to the EBPV sensor? I noticed that what ever that one is the plug is cracked.

And I really want to say BIG Thank You's for all of the wonderful assistance so far. Will keep you all posted with the progress.
 

Last edited by CosmoStarr; Jun 17, 2010 at 06:36 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #27  
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The plug that I am asking about that is cracked is to the right of the EBPV sensor plug.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:17 PM
  #28  
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Just went out and popped the hood of my truck, and based off what you said, I believe it is the water temperature sensor. It's to the right of the EBPS tube, with a heater hose between them, correct?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:44 PM
  #29  
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CosmoStarr,

Your problem is completely fixable.

Your relationship with your Ford dealer isn't.

It was unconscionable for them to make a comment about your truck "getting old" at THAT mileage! They'd make some GOOD coin trading your truck, as 7.3's are very desirable among those in-the-know, and they're counting on you to NOT know that.

Stay away from there, and spend some time here. Even if you don't want to turn the wrenches yourself, you'll learn enough to be able to tell even a good mechanic a thing or two about your rig when it's not performing up-to-par.

You've stumbled across a good bunch of folks, all willing to help in their own way.

Welcome to the Brotherhood.

Pop
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 11:49 PM
  #30  
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Wink Went to town today


Drove to town and back today. About 60 miles r/t.
Power is back - it is not acting like it is starved for fuel. Feel that we can safely make the trip to Vegas next week and have the codes run and cleared. This is such a relief.

I want to thank all of you for the valuable information you have shared and the great pictures. Will update when we return as to what the codes were/are.
 
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