YouTube - update i know i should have more vlots in the battery

 

Here's a diagram for ya:



The light green/red (LG/R) that ventures off the right side I can see you have hooked to your voltage regulator. That should have 12 volts with the key on (or ~9.76 if that's your battery voltage - which is low)

F is Field
S is Stator
B is Battery

Follow that diagram and it *should* work.

IF NOT:

RECTIFIER SHORT OR GROUNDED & STATOR GROUNDED TEST
Using a suitable ohmmeter, connect one probe to the alternator BAT terminal, Figs. 13 and 14, and the other probe to the STA terminal (rear blade terminal). Then, reverse the ohmmeter probes and repeat the test. A reading of about 6.5 ohms should be obtained in one direction and no needle movement with the probes reversed. A reading in both directions indicates a bad positive diode, a grounded positive diode plate or a grounded BAT terminal.
Perform the same test using the STA and GND (ground) terminals of the alternator. A reading in both directions indicates either a bad negative diode, a grounded stator winding, a grounded stator terminal, a grounded positive diode plate, or a grounded BAT terminal.
Infinite readings (no needle movement) in all four probe positions in the preceding tests indicates an open STA terminal lead connection inside the alternator.


FIELD OPEN OR SHORT CIRCUIT TEST
Exc. Alternators W/Integral Regulators
Using a suitable ohmmeter, connect the alternator field terminal with one probe and the ground terminal with the other probe, Fig. 15. Then, spin the alternator pulley. The ohmmeter reading should be between 2.4 and 25 ohms on 1980 units, 2.4 and 100 ohms on all 1981-85 units and 1986-87 models less IAR system, and should fluctuate while the pulley is turning. An infinite reading (no meter movement) indicates an open brush lead, worn or stuck brushes, or a bad rotor assembly. An ohmmeter reading of less than 2.4 ohms indicates a grounded brush assembly, a grounded field terminal or a bad rotor.

But as I mentioned on a previous post, if it's not charging, a touch a jumper from the battery + to the Field terminal on the alternator should cause it to go full output. While doing this you should read ~ 14v on the battery. This essentially bypasses the voltage regulator. If it charges when you do this but not otherwise, then I'd go after the voltage regulator.

And remember to check for 12v on the light green/red striped wire with key on.

*edit* You can jumper for 12v to full field test by putting a jumper in the voltage regulator connector from the light green/red wire to the Orange/blue field wire. This way you can test your wiring/connections to the alternator as well.

 

dude thanks but i can read the digram got any picks thouse worh a milloin worlds in my case

 

I ain't got no pics either, as I'm running 3G on mine...

 

I've got the alternator and the loom out of the truck (Also will be running a 3G) but I can bench wire it up and whip something up for ya when I get home

 

Home now.. gonna grab a bite to eat and then run out and take the pics.

 

thx i been trying to read the digrame but is still makes no since to me

 

are your tires mounted backwards?

 

no y u say that rupe

 

maybe im just tired but it looked like the tread was backwards.im goin to bed before i start really getting goofy.it seems like the side lugs should face the other direction

 

the tire i have gosse both ways

 

Throwing together a video instead of pictures.. I'll post as soon as it's all processed and on youtube. I figure that'll be easier to follow than pictures and text.

 

yep that would be easyer thx

 

Go figure the upload fails with less than 2 minutes to go! Guess I should have plugged the camera in or transferred it to the hard drive first haha. Hope this helps.

YouTube - Ford externally regulated alternator wiring

 

Just thought of something...

Case of the voltage regulator is ground. I think I saw yours mounted on the plastic fender well?? If it's not grounded it won't work.