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Well i want to get a cam for my truck but i know nothing about them...
I was thinking that someone here coud help me pick one.
The truck is going to be my daily driver but i still want to be able to use it as a truck.
It has a 400 in it with an edelbrock performer intake and 600cfm carb. I am also running headers.
I hear good things about an Edelbrock RV cam but like i said i know nothing about cams so i dont know if thats what i want...
and when i put "Edelbrock RV cam" in google i get nothing that helps back.
Does RV stand for something or what?
and does anyone have a suggestion on what cam i should get?
First off how "radical" of a cam do you want? Close to stock? Far from stock? What kind of power are you wanting to make? How many other parts of the motor are you willing to replace to accommodate the new cam? How much are you willing to spend? Do you want hydrolic or mechanical? Flat tappet or roller? Consider some of these things to help you decide. If you do not know what some of them mean let me know i will try and help.
For street driving, I hear the comp cams XE262 is a good cam. To minimize or eliminate machining and retain as many factory components as possible the Comp DEH 255 is a good cam as are the two smallest Lunati Voodoo hyd. flat tappet cams for the 351m/400. With the latter suggestions, no head work is necessary and it's a matter of swapping the cam, springs and lifters.
I want a cam that will be good for towing and hauling yet still be good for everyday driving....
Price doesnt matter.
I am willing to change out just about anything than needs to be replaced.
and i have no clue what hydrolic,mechanical,flat tappat or roller mean.
An RV cam, or "recreational vehicle" is aimed more for torque, than top end HP. Usually around 250-270 degrees advertised duration and lifts ranging from the .470's to .500 or so. More like an improvement over the "compromise" stock type cam. Quick question, have you changed out the timing chain set for a "straight up" one yet? The factory timing set was 10 degrees retarded on these for emissions, and going to an aftermarket set makes them feel like you put in a mild cam.
I want a cam that will be good for towing and hauling yet still be good for everyday driving....
Price doesnt matter.
I am willing to change out just about anything than needs to be replaced.
and i have no clue what hydrolic,mechanical,flat tappat or roller mean.
The last 3 cams I listed would all fit the bill that you're looking for. The 262 starts in on being a mid-range cam.
Your best bet is to contact a cam company, and tell them exactly what you want to do with your truck. "RV" cam is an old term for vehicles made in the '70's that were so choked by emissions. Basically it is a cam ground more for torque and mileage, but significantly better than stock. I have a buddy who put the Edelbrock, PN 2172 in his 351m, and he is very happy with it. He did the Edelbrock timing set at the same time. When you get a cam, get the kit, cams, lifters and rods.
Are the ones that Tim, himself from TMI suggested to me. I said cam and lifter price through him would be $175-185 and the springs and retainers (depending on what valves you have multi or single) would be another $125.
i am interested in this as well but also do not know a lot about it. also i have basically the same setup. 400 with edelbrock intake and carter 1406 carb and headers.
sorry i don't mean to jack the thread.
first how can i tell if the cam is stock or not? long story short: i got my truck from a lady who got it in a divorce. she said the motor was re-manufactured. there is a tag on it as well. any way to tell if the time set and or cam have been changed?