Trans trouble
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
I don't know, but I would never take anything to AAMCO, especially the local one here. I have been in their shop, because my exhaust guy shares the same building. Their work area is a major mess with dirt everywhere even on the bench. I don't see how they He even said not to use them. They say that they are rebuilding a trans, but only replace what broke and put it back together saying its all rebuilt. They are a scam.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
Well, i'm sure JK would like to chime in on that... but anyway...
Does anyone know if an E4OD from a 93 4.9L fit on my 93 5.0L? Found one local for $200 and i need to know quick.
Does anyone know if an E4OD from a 93 4.9L fit on my 93 5.0L? Found one local for $200 and i need to know quick.
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 63
From: North Georgia
Any shop is going to only be as good as its employees, if they are scam artists or unprofessional, messy, or whatever, its up to the owner to change things. AAmco has never sent me guidelines on how to rip people off or how to run my shop in the most filthiest conditions. They do offer me the largest information data base and tech support line in the industry, but they should for those franchise fees we pay. Its up to the owners and employees to make the most out it. Enough about AAmco ok, people love to hate its only human.
As far as your interchangeability question goes, I am not sure, I will dig through some info to see if I can find out for you. We don't swap transmissions around between different vehicles, so I have very little experience with that. I rebuild the transmission that comes out of the vehicle, ( in my clean shop on my nice clean table), its easier for me and it avoids a lot of mismatch problems that can happen. You may want to ask this question in the clutch, transmission section, others there are more familiar with doing that.
It might be wise to have it checked by whoever you chose that works on transmissions, just to make sure all the basics are covered.
That delay into drive isn't good.
EDIT - JMC302 had your answer.
Last edited by jk080; Jun 16, 2010 at 09:34 AM. Reason: delay in posting
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
ok, i bought a code reader and this is what i came up with:
KOEO
111 - pass
CM
172- O2 sensor lean
452- VSS signal fault
628- Excessive converter clutch slippage
634- MPLS volt higher or lower than expected (or a/c on, which it wasn't)
KOER
311 Thermactor air system fault @ self test (what is this?)
411- Cannot control RPM during KOER low check
632- OD trans cancel sw/ no action during self test (oops...)
So, what do you all make of this? Sounds like i need to replace the VSS (the sensor in the rear axle?), the MLPS (shift shaft in the trans, right?), and the O2 sensor? The converter slip doesn't sound good...
What is the thermactor air system, and what does it do?
What can i do about the code 411?
Thanks for all the help guys!
KOEO
111 - pass
CM
172- O2 sensor lean
452- VSS signal fault
628- Excessive converter clutch slippage
634- MPLS volt higher or lower than expected (or a/c on, which it wasn't)
KOER
311 Thermactor air system fault @ self test (what is this?)
411- Cannot control RPM during KOER low check
632- OD trans cancel sw/ no action during self test (oops...)
So, what do you all make of this? Sounds like i need to replace the VSS (the sensor in the rear axle?), the MLPS (shift shaft in the trans, right?), and the O2 sensor? The converter slip doesn't sound good...
What is the thermactor air system, and what does it do?
What can i do about the code 411?
Thanks for all the help guys!
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 63
From: North Georgia
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="ruledRows" valign="top">
</td> <td class="ruledRows">Here is some info on 411, the 628 code is converter system failure, too much slip.
1. Monitor Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid % on DATA. At a hot idle in Park it should be about 30-35%. Unplug the IAC solenoid harness and see what RPM the engine idles at unassisted. It should be about 500-550. Look at the output from the Throttle Position (TP) sensor. It should be about 0.85v to 0.95v. If idle speed is low and TP output is also low, try turning the hard stop idle speed in a little and recheck both readings. If both are high, go the other way.
2. If IAC sol command is high and the base idle is OK, monitor the command side of the IAC solenoid with a volt-ohmmeter. The Red wire on the IAC solenoid is the supply and must be B+ at all times. The other wire is the control side. The circuit is pulsed to ground, the more its grounded, the faster the idle speed. If the voltage goes down and the idle doesn’t go up, clean or replace the IAC Solenoid.
</td><td style="vertical-align: top;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
</td> <td class="ruledRows">Here is some info on 411, the 628 code is converter system failure, too much slip.
1. Monitor Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid % on DATA. At a hot idle in Park it should be about 30-35%. Unplug the IAC solenoid harness and see what RPM the engine idles at unassisted. It should be about 500-550. Look at the output from the Throttle Position (TP) sensor. It should be about 0.85v to 0.95v. If idle speed is low and TP output is also low, try turning the hard stop idle speed in a little and recheck both readings. If both are high, go the other way.
2. If IAC sol command is high and the base idle is OK, monitor the command side of the IAC solenoid with a volt-ohmmeter. The Red wire on the IAC solenoid is the supply and must be B+ at all times. The other wire is the control side. The circuit is pulsed to ground, the more its grounded, the faster the idle speed. If the voltage goes down and the idle doesn’t go up, clean or replace the IAC Solenoid.
</td><td style="vertical-align: top;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
Any shop is going to only be as good as its employees, if they are scam artists or unprofessional, messy, or whatever, its up to the owner to change things. AAmco has never sent me guidelines on how to rip people off or how to run my shop in the most filthiest conditions. They do offer me the largest information data base and tech support line in the industry, but they should for those franchise fees we pay. Its up to the owners and employees to make the most out it. Enough about AAmco ok, people love to hate its only human.
As far as your interchangeability question goes, I am not sure, I will dig through some info to see if I can find out for you. We don't swap transmissions around between different vehicles, so I have very little experience with that. I rebuild the transmission that comes out of the vehicle, ( in my clean shop on my nice clean table), its easier for me and it avoids a lot of mismatch problems that can happen. You may want to ask this question in the clutch, transmission section, others there are more familiar with doing that.
It might be wise to have it checked by whoever you chose that works on transmissions, just to make sure all the basics are covered.
That delay into drive isn't good.
EDIT - JMC302 had your answer.
As far as your interchangeability question goes, I am not sure, I will dig through some info to see if I can find out for you. We don't swap transmissions around between different vehicles, so I have very little experience with that. I rebuild the transmission that comes out of the vehicle, ( in my clean shop on my nice clean table), its easier for me and it avoids a lot of mismatch problems that can happen. You may want to ask this question in the clutch, transmission section, others there are more familiar with doing that.
It might be wise to have it checked by whoever you chose that works on transmissions, just to make sure all the basics are covered.
That delay into drive isn't good.
EDIT - JMC302 had your answer.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="ruledRows" valign="top">
</td> <td class="ruledRows">Here is some info on 411, the 628 code is converter system failure, too much slip.
1. Monitor Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid % on DATA. At a hot idle in Park it should be about 30-35%. Unplug the IAC solenoid harness and see what RPM the engine idles at unassisted. It should be about 500-550. Look at the output from the Throttle Position (TP) sensor. It should be about 0.85v to 0.95v. If idle speed is low and TP output is also low, try turning the hard stop idle speed in a little and recheck both readings. If both are high, go the other way.
2. If IAC sol command is high and the base idle is OK, monitor the command side of the IAC solenoid with a volt-ohmmeter. The Red wire on the IAC solenoid is the supply and must be B+ at all times. The other wire is the control side. The circuit is pulsed to ground, the more its grounded, the faster the idle speed. If the voltage goes down and the idle doesn’t go up, clean or replace the IAC Solenoid.
</td><td style="vertical-align: top;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
</td> <td class="ruledRows">Here is some info on 411, the 628 code is converter system failure, too much slip.
1. Monitor Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid % on DATA. At a hot idle in Park it should be about 30-35%. Unplug the IAC solenoid harness and see what RPM the engine idles at unassisted. It should be about 500-550. Look at the output from the Throttle Position (TP) sensor. It should be about 0.85v to 0.95v. If idle speed is low and TP output is also low, try turning the hard stop idle speed in a little and recheck both readings. If both are high, go the other way.
2. If IAC sol command is high and the base idle is OK, monitor the command side of the IAC solenoid with a volt-ohmmeter. The Red wire on the IAC solenoid is the supply and must be B+ at all times. The other wire is the control side. The circuit is pulsed to ground, the more its grounded, the faster the idle speed. If the voltage goes down and the idle doesn’t go up, clean or replace the IAC Solenoid.
</td><td style="vertical-align: top;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
As for the test... i'm not sure i understand, or that my code reader is capable of such. and for step 2, will my DMM switch fast enough? or do i need an analog meter?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
After reading a little more about what's involved, i decided that there is no way i'm even goinhg to try to rebuild. Best left to someone who knows what they are doing...
No offence to you JK, but after talking to several local people who have been there, i'm not going to my local Aamco. We seem to have one of the bad ones...
No offence to you JK, but after talking to several local people who have been there, i'm not going to my local Aamco. We seem to have one of the bad ones...
