I did a search of the forums on changing the brake pads on my 05 FX4 S-Crew and was able to compile quite a bit of useful information. I have never changed pads before because I typically got rid of a vehicle before the breaks needed attention. Well my truck has 65k miles and I don't see myself getting rid of it anytime soon so the next piece of PM is the front brakes. Had a shop do the rears about 15k miles ago and now the front wear indicators are talking to me.

So the piece that I need clarification on is the bleed valve/screw that I have read about several times. Would someone be so kind to tell me where exactly this is. I found a pictorial that gave step by step instructions on how to do the pads but nowhere in the step by step process did it mention opening up a bleed valve/screw. It would make sense to do so since that would relieve some of the pressure and thus allow the pistons to retract via the c-clamp but why would some need it and others not? Do I just go about the process and open this screw if the pistons are too difficult to retract? I just want to make sure that I have all my ducks in a row before I jack her up. I like to think I'm somewhat mechanical and am able to follow simple directions but there seems to be a lot of variables in the threads that I've read regarding changing the front pads and this is an area of the vehicle I'd rather not screw up. Thanks, in advance, for all the help.

 

First, I believe you asked where the bleed valve is. It is under the little rubber cover, unless your cover fell off and got lost. Then it is plain sight. Either way when you look for it, you will see it.
Second, you may have opened a can of worms/opinions. I myself prefer to bleed off the dirty fluid in the calibers and even in the wheel cylinders of the shoe and drum brakes. Others prefer to force the fluid back up into the master cylinder. If that damages any seals is debatable. I just like clean fluid in all my hydraulics and flush the old fluids out from time to time.
The thing to remember is to have fun obtaining your sense of accomplishment. There will be more than enough opinions from folks to encourage and discourage you in the process.

 

Thanks EBTM. One of my concerns with flushing the system is when I refill and it's time to bleed I may be by myself with no one to pump the brakes. Hopefully when I'm all finished I can have a sense of accomplishment and not a "what the hell did I do" feeling. Several mechanics in the family but I'd like to give it a go myself.

 

If you do the yourself;

When you take the caliper[s] off the disc[s], have length of coat hanger or other wire, to hang the caliper with so it doesn't hang by the brake lines or ABS stuff.

Before compressing the piston into the caliper, make sure to take the cover off the brake fluid resevour...and DON'T "top-off" the resevour until the job is finished. If you do, fluid will overflow when the piston is compressed into the caliper.

To flush the brake lines after the pads are replaced... I tried to do it myself with the vacuum gauge I bought (which even said it could be used for Brake bleeding). It didn't work- I needed a second person to do that job. You need to brief that person to press and HOLD the brake pedal down, until you tell them to relax pressure on the pedal (So air isn't aspirated back into the line before you get the bleeder valve reset between pedal pumps. (they press, you open valve, you close valve, then they relax pedal pressure, repeat until fluid is clear) Start at the farthest line from the resevour and work you way closer. Check the resevour during this process to ensure you don't empty it. It's a bit of a pain, but you'll save money.

 

Thanks 60. Your experience is valued.

 

One man bleeder systems come in different qualities. The less (~$20) need a little additional assistance. The better (>$50) are pretty good. You still need to keep an eye on the reservoir and always start with the furthest away as mentioned by 60DRB. Remember that devil is in the details

 

Yeah, I thought I WAS getting a good vacuum pump at about $60! I got it for working on the 4x4 IWE system, and it worked fine for that.

PS: A lot of people go ahead and replace the rear emergency brake shoes while the back wheels are off. Just a thought.

 

I used a do it yourself bleeder on my 35' motorhome...it worked just fine. You can see when the new fluid makes it to each wheel cylinder via the clear tubing emptying into the container you will need to catch the overflow. I had my daughter watch the reservoir and add fluid as needed. Using a C clamp to compress the pads should not harm your calipers.

 

I think some are making this a bit too complicated. I open the bleeder valve and compress the piston using channel locks, then take off the old pads, put on the new(with grease) close the bleeder , then repeat fo the other side. then when it all back together use brakes as normal, then top off the resovior. I do like the idea of using a clothes hanger to hang up the caliper.

 

I wouldn't leave the bleeder open that long. Close it after you get the piston retracked. There is no reason to leave it open until you install the new pads.

 

BlackFX,

On a side note as well. When you get done with your brakes, BE SURE to double check the vacuum lines going down to your IWE solenoids. There 2 lines "clipped" to your flexible brake line. One is your ABS harness, and the other is 2 smaller rubber hoses molded together. Follow this to where it connects to the IWE solenoid behind your brake rotor. Just be sure that when you are done, this line did not accidentally come disconnected. Otherwise you will have some strange noises up front when you drive.

With the whole brake bleeder thing, its like talking politics. Everyone has their own opinion and will argue it to the grave.

Seasoned tech's rarely mess with it, usually because it takes extra time, and they can break off, which will either cost the customer money, or the tech time, depending on the situaiton. So by habit they will usually suggest forcing the caliper back in, and just pushing the fluid back up to the master cyl. Many techs do this without any negative consequences.

Most people who only work on their own vehicles, or their own vehicles and their buddies vehicles will usually open the bleeder valve, and force the old fluid out when they do brakes, or even just bleed the whole system for the extra peice of mind.

Bottom line is there is no guarantee either way you do it that it will prevent future problems. Some guys have gone many miles without changing it, others change it regularly and still go many miles. There is the inverse of that as well where someone will do everything by the book down to torquing the bleeder screw to specification, and will have some sort of issue down the road too.

So the beauty of it is you can do it any way you like, its YOUR TRUCK! Like mentioned before, have fun and enjoy your sense of accomplishment. Before you know it you will be able to do alot of things on your own with your truck, and wont let anyone else even work on it. This forum is great for reference, so shoot back with any questions.

Have a good one.