Back in Jan I had a low freq rumble in the drive line which I figured was a bad U/joint. Took the old girl in for a new set & she runs like new again!

Then about 2 weeks ago I noticed the voltmeter in the IP was in the low end of the normal range. I took out my DMM & at idle voltage was reading just under 14v. However when above idle speeds the voltage would drop & was erratic, ranging from 12.5 to 14v, even had a variation at constant engine speed. I figured I have either a bad regulator or the Alt is on the way out. I decided to pull the Alternator & look at the V reg unit. When I took off the reg, one of the brushes was worn right down to the terminal connector end. Also the slip ring where the worn brush fit had worn a rough groove & was totally shot.

$60 used Alt at the JYE sorted it out , runs at 14.6v now & steady as a rock.
Lasdt time I had it done at the shop they charged me $400 FOR THE FIRST YEAR (IT FAILED), then another $130 for another unit which lasted another 3 years, $530 for 4 years. I'm happy with the used unit for $65 so far ; it also has 12 month warrenty!

Dont know what I would do without the old girl, lifesaver that van is!!

 

I need to open a alt-starter shop, if people will pay those prices. I could make a killing retail and online.

Cores around here cost $5.00 and I know where to buy dealer parts, for rebuilding them. I used to work at a shop while I was in school, and thats all I did.

 

yea that is amusing what shops charge for things. i just paid 100 bucks and got one from autozone when mine died and slapped it in a half hour.

 

rebuilding the rotor/slip rings for an alternator is not easy and requires an investment in specialized tools.

everything else is simple and easy.

National Quick Start Sales, High output alternator, Alternator & Starter Parts - Rotor

http://search.waiglobal.com/prodsubc...rnator%20Parts

Application Group

 

The slip ring can be cut with a lath, if the rotor is shorted junk it. just get a ohm meter and check it. just never skimp on the regulator, factory parts are worth the extra cost. it will lat 5+ more years, if done right.

 

I replace slip rigs all the time. 10 minutes.

 

Not this one, the burn mark was about .030" deep! I think they can be changed though? Although it looks like a hassle to take the thing apart! I could machine it easily enough as I use lathes etc for a living (Toolmaker). Don't you need to have a fancy puller to get the bearing plate/ housing off? In this case I found it quicker & better to just get a used one with a warrenty......... now if I were retired it would be another story!

 

time is money
remember all the alternator/starter auto electrical shops, a/c shops and radiator shops that used to be around?

 

Only one starter/alt shop and one radiator shop left out here but both are gems. The radiator shop has been around since the 20's and has that distinctly, dank, dark, medieval interior with open fire pits for brazing/soldering. The kind of place that drives the fire department inspectors nuts but the old guy refuses to accomodate any of their demands.

Each place is operated by true craftsmen......a dying breed.

 

All you need to pull the bearing, is get a fork jig and a press. to push it off the shaft. simple enough. I have seen where some shops use a sanding belt to resurface the slip ring, if its not to bad. then polish with 1000 grit paper. but you have to make sure it stays round.

The field coils use hammer and 3\8" drift pin. mount the stater housing in a vise. tap each bolt with a firm strike. then remove them. then clean all the housing parts real good. use oil for any new bushings you replace. grease the shaft ends and reassemble.

 

Can you change them on the 3g? I think mine are out-of-round.

When i get on the throttle and buzz the '97 4.0 'star the battery light comes on and the voltage drops. it's either an alt-fault or.... Does the PCM drop the field winding under load??!

 

Take out the Voltage regulator & inspect the slip rings & brushes ,you will see easily if there is a problem. The brushes should be the same length & not worn close to the copper terminal, & the slip ring should be smooth without any obvious grooves in them. The PCM does not control the alternator load or voltage.

 

Yep, the alternator died once and for all on the way home.

And again!! yes.. brushes ate the slip ring.


250,000 Km and 13 years old.. great first run!!

I might just try to check all the resistances install a couple of bearings and a slip ring, brushes and try to bash it back together.. if i go for it, i'll post it.

 

You don't have to bash it off, just have some one use a press and it will slide right off the shaft without much pressure. if your really wanting to up the amps. hit the junks yards. they are full of $25.00 130amp plus just needing a new home