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The entire auto locking hub assembly and repair parts were discontinued, and the manuals dont use that particular piece. They were prone to a variety of failures, the newest version used in the SD's use vacuum to "soft lock" what are otherwise manual hubs. The automatic hubs when operated had to roll forward approximately 10 feet to lock going forward and then roll back the same to unlock, then an additional 10 to relock when changing directions. so if your already stuck they are worthless. also for heavy 4wheel drive operation ie. plowing snow or serious offroad they werent rated forthe torque pulling on them and have a tendancy to shatter. Thats why its concidered an upgrade to run manuals as they are much stronger. Also for what is worth you can put the manuals on and run them continuously in the locked position and simply shift the transfer to 4x4 to engage it on demand the same as the autos, the only side effects of this slightly deminshed cornering when they are locked in, as well as potential wear on front drive axle parts mainly ujoints. From Ford the manuals were standard for heavy 4x4 use applications such as the snowplow package. But what I was saying is if you want monday Ill see if I can find a set of used auto assemblys, however the cost of them plus shipping may not be cost effective over replacing them with manuals. An alternate option you might look into is a hub rebuild kit for manuals like the ones in the sheets I posted as they do use snap rings too, granted they are not nessasarily interchangable but the snap rings they use when you convert still use the same grooves in the hub casing and thus they still may work for your application only with out the little finger tabs to remove them that way, and those kits are only like $20 if you want to experiment with them.
The entire auto locking hub assembly and repair parts were discontinued, and the manuals dont use that particular piece. They were prone to a variety of failures, the newest version used in the SD's use vacuum to "soft lock" what are otherwise manual hubs. The automatic hubs when operated had to roll forward approximately 10 feet to lock going forward and then roll back the same to unlock, then an additional 10 to relock when changing directions. so if your already stuck they are worthless. also for heavy 4wheel drive operation ie. plowing snow or serious offroad they werent rated forthe torque pulling on them and have a tendancy to shatter. Thats why its concidered an upgrade to run manuals as they are much stronger. Also for what is worth you can put the manuals on and run them continuously in the locked position and simply shift the transfer to 4x4 to engage it on demand the same as the autos, the only side effects of this slightly deminshed cornering when they are locked in, as well as potential wear on front drive axle parts mainly ujoints. From Ford the manuals were standard for heavy 4x4 use applications such as the snowplow package. But what I was saying is if you want monday Ill see if I can find a set of used auto assemblys, however the cost of them plus shipping may not be cost effective over replacing them with manuals. An alternate option you might look into is a hub rebuild kit for manuals like the ones in the sheets I posted as they do use snap rings too, granted they are not nessasarily interchangable but the snap rings they use when you convert still use the same grooves in the hub casing and thus they still may work for your application only with out the little finger tabs to remove them that way, and those kits are only like $20 if you want to experiment with them.
I don't mean to sound like an idiot but I've been told that if I switch to manuals I still need this locking ring I'm missing for the manuals to work to.
or is the person who told me this the idiot? lol (I'm hoping this guy is an idiot, Because if thats the case I'll go right out and get manuals)
Ive personally swapped one of my trucks from autos to manuals, there is a different ring but yes there is a ring, and the ring comes with the kits to either rebuild the manuals or with the hubs, or convertion kit. I simply cannot remember which box it was in. when you convert from autos to manuals youll need the hub set, and the convertion stuff which consists of new spindle nuts they are different from the ones used on the autos. annd snap rings to stop the movement in and out from the inner hub guts. Depending on the manufacturer of the manual hub you buy they may even have a ring which is VERY similar which is why I was saying you might simply want to look into the rebuild kits which replace all the rings and take em out of the box at the parts store and see if the ones they come with will work for your current scenario without needing to use all the parts or even actually convert. But if you get the manual hubs and the convertion kit, you will have EVERYTHING you need for them as the kits replace EVERYTHING inside the hub housing, including any nessasary rings.
Ive personally swapped one of my trucks from autos to manuals, there is a different ring but yes there is a ring, and the ring comes with the kits to either rebuild the manuals or with the hubs, or convertion kit. I simply cannot remember which box it was in. when you convert from autos to manuals youll need the hub set, and the convertion stuff which consists of new spindle nuts they are different from the ones used on the autos. annd snap rings to stop the movement in and out from the inner hub guts. Depending on the manufacturer of the manual hub you buy they may even have a ring which is VERY similar which is why I was saying you might simply want to look into the rebuild kits which replace all the rings and take em out of the box at the parts store and see if the ones they come with will work for your current scenario without needing to use all the parts or even actually convert. But if you get the manual hubs and the convertion kit, you will have EVERYTHING you need for them as the kits replace EVERYTHING inside the hub housing, including any nessasary rings.
Thanks, I'm thinking I'm going to convert to manuals, Its way to much like work to keep these auto's lol
At least the cost wont be too bad that way, and you know they'll work and you can get the parts. Only take you an hour or so to swap out. Have fun, hope I helped.
At least the cost wont be too bad that way, and you know they'll work and you can get the parts. Only take you an hour or so to swap out. Have fun, hope I helped.
If I have the 30 Spline which I believe I do, the hubs are gonna Be $207-$235 Each i think, plus then the conversion kits. arg lol there just no cheap way out lol
This info is from my quick 5 min research I'll look for a better deal in the morning.
If I have the 30 Spline which I believe I do, the hubs are gonna Be $207-$235 Each i think, plus then the conversion kits. arg lol there just no cheap way out lol
This info is from my quick 5 min research I'll look for a better deal in the morning.
Yes you have been very helpful!
American Trucker
You should have the 30 spline and its been awhile since I bought a set so maybe they are $200+ but IIRC the WARN standards are the $200 ones and the premiums are around $220 the difference is the standards only make a 1/4 turn to lock and have plastic actuators, while the premiums have a more solid lock and require a 350* turn to lock and have metal actuators. And a set single set contains the parts for both sides, and the covertion kit is like $25 more I think, and it too contains the pparts for both sides.
Numbers dummy trumps Ed with his hands tied behind his back, Darin. =)
And numbers dummy will come to the thread and answer as soon as he gets the PM I sent him.
FYI numberdummy has sent me to partsguyed more than once to look for something....
I have a 1994 Ford F-250 7.3 Turbo Diesel (k) vin
4 Spd Auto Trany
Auto Locking Hubs
Dana 50
I need the ring that goes on after the Axle locknut, it's almost a full circle but instead of being complete, it is like a snap ring.
But instead of little loops at the ends like a snap ring, it bends 90 degrees and goes out 1/2 inch. Looks like the letter C with two 90 degree "ears" on it.
I see the ring in the exploded view of the hub assy you are speaking of (why the idiot at the dealer didn't see it, I havent a clue), but...
It's not available separately, it's only sold as part of a 1K104 kit. The only way to look up this kit in the Ford truck parts catalog, is in the front axle parts lists...and there are over 100!
I need the front axle ID tag code number.
Without it, it's almost impossible to get the kit part number, due to all the variations (specific ratio, specific front axle weight capacity, specific this, specific that!).
Once I have the ID number, I'll find the part number in seconds, then see what the availability is...search for it...if it's obsolete. Then post the info.
btw: Ed Olson (FTE sponsor: PARTSGUYED.COM), parts manager of Horizon Ford in Seattle WA and I are pals. Ed was once a parts manager here in LA LA Land, as I was.
If you cannot find the front axle ID tag (do not be surprised if it's missing), contact Ed, pass along your VIN and tell him the Big Dummy sez you need the 1K104 kit.
I see the ring in the exploded view of the hub assy you are speaking of (why the idiot at the dealer didn't see it, I havent a clue), but...
It's not available separately, it's only sold as part of a 1K104 kit. The only way to look up this kit in the Ford truck parts catalog, is in the front axle parts lists...and there are over 100!
I need the front axle ID tag code number.
Without it, it's almost impossible to get the kit part number, due to all the variations (specific ratio, specific front axle weight capacity, specific this, specific that!).
Once I have the ID number, I'll find the part number in seconds, then see what the availability is...search for it...if it's obsolete. Then post the info.
btw: Ed Olson (FTE sponsor: PARTSGUYED.COM), parts manager of Horizon Ford in Seattle WA and I are pals. Ed was once a parts manager here in LA LA Land, as I was.
If you cannot find the front axle ID tag (do not be surprised if it's missing), contact Ed, pass along your VIN and tell him the Big Dummy sez you need the 1K104 kit.
This axle ID is not listed, the tag is prolly rusty and hard to read.
There is no code that begins with an S or has a 4th digit of H.
This is prolly what it is: F3TA-3002-AZB
If so, I've already looked up the kit part number. It's obsolete, but there are 82 still available from FoMoCo dealers. Four obsolete parts vendors have 313.
I decided to do the manual conversion, I just ordered Warn Premium Manual's with the conversion kit shipped right to my door for $311.
NumberDummy, If you can get me a price or the number for whoever has that part I would appreciate it. I'll just buy 2 if there cheap and put them with my old auto's and sell them.
I decided to do the manual conversion, I just ordered Warn Premium Manual's with the conversion kit shipped right to my door for $311.
NumberDummy, If you can get me a price or the number for whoever has that part I would appreciate it. I'll just buy 2 if there cheap and put them with my old auto's and sell them.
Axle ID: F3TA-3002-AZB = Front Driving Axle Parts list # 110.
F1TZ1K104B.. Auto Locking Hub - Cap Assy / Includes 10 parts including C shaped ring w/two 90 degree ears on it / Obsolete
Since the kit is obsolete, all I can give you...are the following prices.
Depending on the source, you should be able to buy the kit for somewhere between dealer net and MSRP.
Last MSRP: $147.45 / Dealer net cost: $88.47.
DICK PARKER FORD in Havelock NC has 2 = 252-447-9864.
SOUTHLAND FORD in Ashburn GA has 2 = 229-567-3301.
GILMORE FORD in Prattville AL has 2 = 334-365-2272.
KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has 8 = 800-816-2894.
PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 14 = 888-727-0418.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 28 = 800-543-4959.
VINTAGE FORD PARTS in Beaver Dam WI has 212 = 877-846-8243.