G'Day all. I need some help, I purchased a door seal kit from D/C for my 64 all good the instruction sheet states push plastic pins in lower edge of door place seal around the edge,cut to length and glue. Ok my question is do I glue the lower edge with the pins and wire?and yes I have thrown the original broken seal away 2 years ago so have nothing to go by. hope to hear back from some one.Brian

 

These door w/strips do not have plastic retainer pins! Only the late 1970's and later trucks did.

There are no holes in the doors of trucks of this vintage to push the pins into.

If you received w/strips with plastic pins attached to them, you got the wrong ones, or if not...

My guess is, that DC uses the same instruction sheet for all his door w/strips.

The service part replacement FoMoCo and the repro w/stripes are fatter than the ones Ford installed on the assembly line. In fact, those were never available.

In order to install them, then get the door to close properly, Ford used to include an instruction sheet with the w/strips.

"After gluing the w/strips on, use masking tape to retain them in place, especially at the corners.'

'Close the door till it just touches the striker plate (you may have to tape the door to get it to stay in this position). Remove the dome lamp bulb so the battery will not go dead.'

"Once the glue has dried, remove the tape...carefully."

 

Every 61 to 66 door i have ever had has the pin retainer holes along the bottom. The new rubbers come with the pins and a wire reinforcement?

Garbz

 

I've never seen one a these door w/strips with pins. But, I've never seen DC's or any other repro parts sellers w/strips....just gen-u-ine Ford parts.

Remember what I said...you could not buy the same w/strips these trucks came with 'as original' because the type used on the assembly line were thinner and flatter than Twiggy!

The Ford Service Part Replacements and the repops are fatter. Most ppl have a heck of time after installing them...to get the blankity-blank doors to close properly.

 

bigbird, I just did the door seal project this past winter on a 1966 F100. I removed the original door seals. They did have pins and wire along the bottom edge of the door. There was clearly no adhesive used on the factory install on this section of the door. I didn't use any going back together. The plastic pins/retainers fit nicely in the original holes in the bottom of the door. The spacing and interference fit of the pins on the seal of the replacement strips was very good.
I tried to do this project with the door hanging and found that it was not easy to get the adhesive and seal where it needed to be. I can guarantee you the doors were not mounted when there seals were installed at the factory. I highly recommend that you carefully mark your hinges before removing the doors. Careful marking is less important if your doors do not close well to begin with. I padded a couple of saw horses and layed the doors down, interior side up. That gave me a very clear view, complete access and allowed for careful surface prep. I did find that the factory had used very small amounts of butyl on the sharpest corners. You can purchase butyl by the roll from any parts house. It's handy stuff to have and it is really sticky. I also recommend the best quality weather strip adhesive you can find. Don't buy the small, home owner tube. Go to a body supply house and buy a tube of the professional grade with a 3 and an M in the brand! Take your time and allow for a good cure before you rehang your doors. Sadly, these weather strips dimensions are not exactly as the original. They are thicker and the doors will not close as well. I kept the original door adjustments and used a little firmer effort when closing the doors and I have found that over the months, they are getting easier to close. This is a project that requires patience and the willingness to do it over. I also found that mineral spirits was very helpful in cleaning the adhesive off unintended surfaces. It will cut the adhesive without damaging the paint. Good luck!

 

Have to agree as my rotted out door seals had the plastic pin retainers along the bottom. My NOS door seals also came with a complete set of plastic pins.

 

fwiw, i did try both the 3m brands of adhesive , ( red and Black.) i found that the black was easily twice as good as the red adhesive. i ended up removing the whole works and spent a whole day cleaning that red crap off.and using the black. i also agree with old blue. patience and ye shall accomplish. Dutch

 

G,Day, Thank you for taking the time to reply. I agree with most of your replys there are holes in the bottom of the door to take the pins, there has to be a reason for these pins and it would seem that the pins and wire take the place of the glue,could it be not to hold water underneath the door and start rust? My truck was a farm truck and original, I think Australian farmers are like U.S farmers and don't do much to their work trucks. I just can't see them going to the trouble to drill holes in the lower edge to replace the rubbers, they would just let the seal fall off and keep going.So I will glue the sides and top! Thanks again for you help Brian.

 

I also think that the reason they were put there is for cold weather states to assist in keeping them in place. I have had them freeze shut from water getting in there and freezing so i learned quickly that to keep them clean with a silicone coating saves them. i also glued mine in place as i have had some of them pull loose ruining the weather stripping. dont think it would be necessary in warmer climates. just my opinion though. Dutch

 

I would tack the bottom areas...to prevent water and moisture from taking up residence between the seal and the steel.
My NOS seals all have the black plastic pins integral with the weatherstrip assembly.


- cs65

 

G'day all, thanks for your extra suggestions, I also thought that the pins may work loose, the cab has been painted so the holes have to be filed out to clear out the paint and if I go to far they won't hold.A little glue won't hurt along the lower edge. thanks again Brian.

 

I would try to put them in with paint as is...unless so heavy hole sealed or nearly sealed...bare metal= an avenue for rust to start...


- cs65

 

This is a bit off subject, but...My doors on a 64 kept rattling because the weatherstrip was beat. I pulled weatherstrip off a mid-late 70s F series and glued it on using 3M adhesive. May not be factory correct, but it was almost free and made my doors nice and tight!