When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This forum provided a link to <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD class=main>Chad Wissmar's article on Bed Wood Dimensions, but the pdf wasn't there. Any one have his pdf, or the dimensions available again? Can't believe how expensive 8 pieces of oak are.
My thanks to you Bobby, this will work. Agree with you Jeff, there's lot of great information here - I've scored twice today my first day on the forum!
A couple of caveats; there are differences in the locations of the front bolt holes between (I think) 48-50, 51-52, and 53-on beds. The Earl's dimensions are for a '53-on F-100 short box. I can't find it with Search, but there have been threads about the differences over the years.
Also, every bed is a little different, so measure 2x, cut 1x -- it's awful hard to put wood back!
There was a thread a week back or so about the color of bed boards; find it and you'll see that oak isn't the only choice for boards. Over the years I've seen folks on here using everything from CD-X plywood to exotic African woods.
It would appear that f1 Canadian production had a narrower width of board and therefore more boards with a different mounting hole spacing.
(This is of major importance to two or three of us, maybe).
It would appear that f1 Canadian production had a narrower width of board and therefore more boards with a different mounting hole spacing.
(This is of major importance to two or three of us, maybe).
No kidding?! I'd like to see how that looks! Why did they do that?
Turns out one of my coworkers dropped a Virginia red oak (they're fat trees) last summer and had it milled to 1" thicknesses. I can purchase for $1USD/board foot. With some effort at the planer, router and sander I ought to be able to replace mine for 1/3 the cost of the package. That'll be really cool.
Thanks for the input guys, I'll take some pics and share the pain. Seems to me the last time I did this in oh about 1986 I got an eyefull of rust.
old f1 is right,my 50merc m-68 had 9 planks in it.i think when i put new ones in it will only be 7.
raerjim,if he planes them down to 5/8 they will be to thin,my truck needs 5/4 which is 1 1/4 thick to sit flush with the edge of the box,but then i have the 8' express box on my truck the f1 box maybe different.
No kidding?! I'd like to see how that looks! Why did they do that?
DISCLOSURE: I got so frustrated with the picture gallery thing that I bought the premium membership so that I could post pictures, and it works well, except that I do not know how to manage attachments so that there is text between each picture? (color me frustrated again)………….anyone know how to do this, (please) ?
Picture # 1;
USA production. 7 metal skid strips, 8 boards @ 5 ¾ in. wide. The holes in the cross members will line up with the holes in the metal skid strips, right?
Picture # 2;
This is my bed on its tailgate with no wood and numbered metal strips.(eight) and spaces for nine boards.
Picture # 3;
This is an old bed wood piece. approx 4 5/8 in. - not 5 3/4 in.
Why?
Henry was notoriously cheap and it probably was more economical to get domestic planks and drill different mounting holes?
Originally Posted by vintage tin
my 50merc m-68 had 9 planks in it.i think when i put new ones in it will only be 7.
Wouldn’t you have to re-drill the cross member holes for the skid strips? As I mentioned in the “color your bed wood” post I think that I might go with the 6 narrow (Canadian width) plywood or wood boards and one triple width centre board to mount offset mustang tank gas filler, this way using all the old holes! (I hope)
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.