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Well let's back up a minute. When you mentioned the battery is good, how do you know that?
One problem with diagnosis is, a bad battery will mimic bad cables and connections - the exact same symptoms, the solenoid relay chatter. This is because not enough juice is getting where it needs to go. Do the headlights come on brightly?
So (especially over the internet) it's tougher to make assumptions on folks skill level. If you have a battery charger, it would be wise to charge it slowly overnight, even if it's brandy new from NAPA. This way we know for certain.
I'm going to suggest a link to a website that has a very good step by step process to save time for you. You will need only a voltmeter. Let us know what you find.
Jumper across the main posts of the solenoid to eliminate it as the problem. Poor Alternator function can also be a factor overall. Inspect, clean & secure all connections. Condition of pos & neg cables play a huge part in the accelerated decline & eventual catastrophic failure of all the individual componants! If you do replace them, Do yourself a favor & go up a gauge size.
hey man what would a bad alternator that is prbably going out or dead have anythinh to do or relate to the starter solenoid?
Why guess? Measure the charging voltage under load with the heater blower and headlights, everything on to load it up. Run the RPM up to around 2000. Voltage at the posts should be say 13.8 to 14.2.
81 F100 LWB. 300 I6. Got to the gas stn last night and when I went to start it. It goes *CLICK* and all my ignition switched lights go out. Turn the key back, then on again, and have lights back. Try starting again. *CLICK* lights go out but don't come back on. Tried bypassing, jump starting. Smacking the relay with a screwdriver and the dash flickers and/or lights back up. Even tried putting a jumper cable right to the out side of ghe relay and nothing. Battery has plenty of juice. Headlights work as long as the relay or regulator gets beat a bit. Had to push the bloody thing home lastnite. Thankfully I'm liked in town and had a police SUV follow with lights flashing. Any ideas? Anyone?
That thing is nothing but rust Kev, you could try brushing everything with a wire brush, but I would definitely replace the relay. If that's inside the engine bay then the starter itself will be in worse shape, so clean those terminals too (remember to disconnect the battery unless you want to enjoy a spark fireworks show right in your face). But personally I think the wire from the battery to the starter rusted out, it lost so much conductivity it isn't allowing enough power to get from the battery to the starter.
You could try cleaning ALL the grounds and connections at the block, starter, and relay. Everyone knows about the battery terminals, but they are all important. Crack 'em loose (PB Blaster or your favorite rust buster first) wire brush everything shiny bright and tight. When connections get corroded alternator won't charge right either.
That thing is nothing but rust Kev, you could try brushing everything with a wire brush, but I would definitely replace the relay. If that's inside the engine bay then the starter itself will be in worse shape, so clean those terminals too (remember to disconnect the battery unless you want to enjoy a spark fireworks show right in your face). But personally I think the wire from the battery to the starter rusted out, it lost so much conductivity it isn't allowing enough power to get from the battery to the starter.
BTW, welcome to FTE!.
Thanks for the welcome! And the prompt reply, everyone.
I thought it may be the cable, too, so I also tried putting the jumper cable I was trying to boost with onto the out side of the relay. Nothing.
The starter is brand new. Came with a new one when I got it.
I also noticed, the positive the goes off into this convoluted looking cable, 3 wires in, 1 fat one out, had been hacked at some point. It came off where it joined the 3, and a previous owner had cut the fat one out and used yellow barrel connectors to put it back together past the aforementioned connection. Where the barrel connector is, is all green and black.
All I know is, is I need this thing for work. It may be old, but it has character and I love this little flatdeck.
Would a relay from a late 90's, early 00's work as a replacement? I have a friend with a parts truck and he'd be willing to hook me up.
Aside from the signs and rack for them, that's how I got it. And yes. The side stack is functional.
Last edited by Kev-F125; Feb 23, 2017 at 07:19 AM.
Reason: forgot to include info
I took the main lead from the relay to the starter and put it directly onto the battery post. Sparks, bit of smoke, and a burned divot into the post. But no noise or anything from the starter. Nada. Looks like my $500 good running truck, isn't. I'll make another thread about it in another section should anyone want to know more.
That thing is nothing but rust Kev, you could try brushing everything with a wire brush, but I would definitely replace the relay. If that's inside the engine bay then the starter itself will be in worse shape, so clean those terminals too (remember to disconnect the battery unless you want to enjoy a spark fireworks show right in your face). But personally I think the wire from the battery to the starter rusted out, it lost so much conductivity it isn't allowing enough power to get from the battery to the starter.
BTW, welcome to FTE!.
New relay, starter and pos battery cable later, it's running again.
Thanks for all the insight, input, and help fellqow Ford drivers!!!
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