Do I detect a mutiny? Are you saying I should get rid of my head w. the over-size valves because I have a bad/loose v. seal? Why? I have more $ in that head alone than I could get out of the entire other engine.

I believe I will replace the v.'s with the proper length from Clifford's and install them with new seals. That is the only issue with the head, and there are several guys on the forum who run the same sbc valves w/o issue.

If I did replace that head, that would mean buying a new cam kit too.

Dusty's idea sounds good, but when you have to start writing the checks--$100 junkyard head, $100 valve job, prob. $200 cam kit, $60 new studs, gaskets, magnafluxing, paint, $150 cam, etc.--you soon realize that you've spent what? $610 to be able to sell the engine for probably $1000...maybe, and you can't even gaurantee it will hold oil psi.

Don't get me wrong. I appreciate the feedback, but I can't sell that engine w/o knowing it is good. Nor do I want to spend all the time and over $600 in order to make $300.

 

I'm running the oversize SBC valves with no issues. Actuated by Harland Sharp Roller rockers and stock length pushrods. No head or deck milling. Positive seal valve seals, Crower dual spring valve srpings. I found some Manley valves that were just a wee bit longer than stock, and I had no issues with valve train geometry.

 

I think I'd change the seals then, and see what it does, being that your not really haveing any trouble with it. as far as the old block, probably check the crank with some plasti guage just to see what's going on, and go from there.

 

Here's my $0.02

I would start the truck one morning and let it idle while it blows a little smoke out of the tailpipe. As soon as the smoking stops I would shut the motor off and let it cool. Then pull the spark plugs and see how many and which ones look like they've been burning oil. Don't drive it and then do this as that would probably burn off the evidence. Just let it idle until it's burned it's oil then pull the plugs. Once you've determined which cylinder or cylinders it is put the plugs back in then warm the engine up again. Once it's warm take your compression tester and test the compression in the now suspect cylinder or cylinders. Then squirt 2 or 3 teaspoons of oil into that/those said cylinder/cylinders and do another compression test. This will tell you if your rings should be suspected or not. If your compression has not changed by using the oil then the oil your engine is burning is not coming by your rings.

I would then take the valve cover off and look at the springs and valve seals of those suspect cylinders. And if you have an assistant, have them crank the harmonic dampener bolt to turn the engine over with the spark plugs out and watch the valve train cycle a few times. Just look for anything strange. Issues caused by your slightly longer valves (doubtful), springs close to binding, just anything that doesn't look quite right. Just watch it so you can say you've seen it.

Then I would unbolt your head and remove it. I would remove the head regardless just because of your bolt-to-stud replacement. Even though untorquing one fastener at a time then retorquing in a replacement will probably not cause a headgasket to blow within a thousand miles or two, I myself would want a fresh, uncompressed headgasket properly and finally installed in a first-time-and-the-last-time fashion.

Once your head is off then buy (harbor freight sells a half-decent one) or borrow (autozone) your own spring compressor and remove your springs. Pull your valves out. Inspect all the valve seals. They are all destroyed now that you've pulled them out, but see what you can see. I would look at the valve seats, look at the valve faces. Look at the valve stems for anything that looks suspicious. Look at the top of the valve guides for any kind of bur. Look for anything that might tell you why some valve seals had issues (if they did). Oil not draining from above the head and pooling around the valve stems (doubtful). Not enough oil actually getting deflected to the valve seals. Just look at everything and see.

Then get a new set of whatever valve seals you want to try. Start putting the head back together. Properly lube the valve stems and new seals and install them. Put the springs back on. Install the head with a new gasket. Torque it down. Torque down the rockers. Pour a quart of oil over the valvetrain. Put the valve cover back on. Then drive the truck again and see what happens.

That would be my plan of attack.