feedback needed!
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,165
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
feedback needed!
Hey guys--
I need a bit of advice. When I swapped #1 engine for this one, I noticed on block that head gasket was near to failing between cylinders. I blamed it on the 40 year-old bolts not holding torque. After about 1200 miles I swapped in ARP studs, thinking that if I didn't apply the moly lube to bottom of nut where it meets washer, they would torque up like the head bolts. I know I should have mentioned the studs to the machinist so he could bore accordingly, but I didn't.
So now, after about 2500 miles I am alarmed to find I am loosing oil. I don''t seem to be smoking though. I'm wondering if I possibly tweeked the block, causing the rings to 'un' seat? But since I'm loosing about 1qt. every two weeks (gulp) wouldn't it be visible while running? I am leaking a very small amount at the front seal. I should also mention that in two weeks I'm only putting on about 4-500 miles.
Feedback is appreciated.
I need a bit of advice. When I swapped #1 engine for this one, I noticed on block that head gasket was near to failing between cylinders. I blamed it on the 40 year-old bolts not holding torque. After about 1200 miles I swapped in ARP studs, thinking that if I didn't apply the moly lube to bottom of nut where it meets washer, they would torque up like the head bolts. I know I should have mentioned the studs to the machinist so he could bore accordingly, but I didn't.
So now, after about 2500 miles I am alarmed to find I am loosing oil. I don''t seem to be smoking though. I'm wondering if I possibly tweeked the block, causing the rings to 'un' seat? But since I'm loosing about 1qt. every two weeks (gulp) wouldn't it be visible while running? I am leaking a very small amount at the front seal. I should also mention that in two weeks I'm only putting on about 4-500 miles.
Feedback is appreciated.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: Anchorage, Alaska
What kind of rings are you using? Chrome rings take much longer to break in than cast rings.
I highly doubt the studs are causing any problem.
Does it smoke at all at startup after sitting indicating a valve stem seal leak?...Maybe a seal popped up due to not being seated properly?
I'd fix that front crank seal and see if it gets any better. You may have a crank seal, plus a little bit of break-in left to go on the rings, so your "normal" oil consumption is about doubled due to the crank seal.
When you installed the studs, did you replace the head gasket, or just remove and install one at a time? There are mixed feelings about the latter...
I highly doubt the studs are causing any problem.
Does it smoke at all at startup after sitting indicating a valve stem seal leak?...Maybe a seal popped up due to not being seated properly?
I'd fix that front crank seal and see if it gets any better. You may have a crank seal, plus a little bit of break-in left to go on the rings, so your "normal" oil consumption is about doubled due to the crank seal.
When you installed the studs, did you replace the head gasket, or just remove and install one at a time? There are mixed feelings about the latter...
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,165
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
I highly doubt the studs are causing any problem.
Does it smoke at all at startup after sitting indicating a valve stem seal leak?...Maybe a seal popped up due to not being seated properly?
I'd fix that front crank seal and see if it gets any better. You may have a crank seal, plus a little bit of break-in left to go on the rings, so your "normal" oil consumption is about doubled due to the crank seal.
When you installed the studs, did you replace the head gasket, or just remove and install one at a time? There are mixed feelings about the latter...
Does it smoke at all at startup after sitting indicating a valve stem seal leak?...Maybe a seal popped up due to not being seated properly?
I'd fix that front crank seal and see if it gets any better. You may have a crank seal, plus a little bit of break-in left to go on the rings, so your "normal" oil consumption is about doubled due to the crank seal.
When you installed the studs, did you replace the head gasket, or just remove and install one at a time? There are mixed feelings about the latter...
Thanks for replying. I have the cast rings in this engine. Yes! it does smoke in the mornings, but seems to run clean when warm. With the sbc valves I can easily see probs with the v. seals. Valves were .095 longer than oem.
I can see that I may be pulling the head soon and going through everything, so that will be a good time to install sbc valve seals, and check the guides.
Regarding the front seal: It is a MAJOR pain in the back side to replace, pull the rad., etc. Since there is zero dowel pins in this engine, I have to use the v. dampener to center the cover. I've done it twice, with different dampeners. I really don't think it is leaking that much, hardly collecting a drop on the oil pan bolt. But I will watch it.
Removed oe bolts, and replaced with the ARP studs, one at a time.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: Anchorage, Alaska
If it smokes blue in the mornings, I'm inclined to say the valve stem seals are leaking. The oil leaks down past the leaking seal, through the guide and stem, and into the intake valve area while sitting for an extended (couple hours to overnight) period of time.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
my vote is for the valve seals too.here's another old school tip: find a big hill, get up to speed, go down the hill without touching the throttle. floor it at the bottom, if it smokes it's a$$ off, your rings are done. if not they are good.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,165
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
thanks, guys.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
v seals real easy. remove valve cover, remove spark plugs, remove rocker arms. hook air hose to cyl. put on tdc. put in 60 lbs air. push down valve spring and remove keepers. remove spring. remove seal. instal new seal, reverse order. go to next cyl, and repeat 5 times. all done. take about 2 hrs, unless your old like me, then will take all day
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Just curious, which style valve stem seals did you use? I've been told that the factory "umbrella" type actually work better than many of the "positive seal" type.
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Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,165
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,165
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
v seals real easy. remove valve cover, remove spark plugs, remove rocker arms. hook air hose to cyl. put on tdc. put in 60 lbs air. push down valve spring and remove keepers. remove spring. remove seal. instal new seal, reverse order. go to next cyl, and repeat 5 times. all done. take about 2 hrs, unless your old like me, then will take all day
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,165
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
not to spend your money for you, but I think if I were looking at a project that has bitten my a$$ as much as that one, I would start with a fresh head, have it ready to go, and sunday change it, so the truck isn't down so long. then I would freshen up the other block, put the 1st head on it, get it to run, and re coupe some of my money. a motor like that should give you back enough money to get the o/d installed. just my .02
