When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 460 ci it will start and run for a few minutes and then dies. I check the fuel pumps out, no problems there. There is gass in the carb. after it quits. I borrowed an ingition module that is on the fender well, drivers side and changed it out and it still runs and dies. What and where do I look now?
It sure does sound like the classic 460 electric pump fuel problem. Will the carb squirt fuel into the engine right after it quits when you pump the accel pedal?
I guess you know as long as you are cranking these engines, the electric pumps are driven directly, but as soon as you let off the key and it's in "run", the pumps get power through a relay which may not be working.
It sure does sound like the classic 460 electric pump fuel problem. Will the carb squirt fuel into the engine right after it quits when you pump the accel pedal?
I guess you know as long as you are cranking these engines, the electric pumps are driven directly, but as soon as you let off the key and it's in "run", the pumps get power through a relay which may not be working.
Thanks for your reply. Right after it dies, I pump the gas and it will puddle in the manifold after two or three pumps. I checked each fuel pump and they both filled up a quart bottle in about 30 sec.
When this problem started I could drive a few miles between stalls, but they got more frequent trying to get back home.
Could it be a coil or is there some relay in the ignition that is getting hot then not working?
I have a 460 ci it will start and run for a few minutes and then dies. I check the fuel pumps out, no problems there. There is gas in the carb. after it quits.
I borrowed an ingition module that is on the fender well, drivers side and changed it out and it still runs and dies. What and where do I look now?
You borrowed a module...but if it was used, it may not be any better than your original, because...
The three step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheat, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in a hour or so.
3) Sooner or later...usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.
Ford mounted the module on the left fender inner apron (thru 1986) across from the V8's red hot exhaust manifold.
V8 or not, engine heat is the mortal enemy of these modules. When installing a new module, use some washers to space it further away from the inner apron, because the more airflow around the little darlin' .. the better.
btw: Taking a module to an autoparts store to be tested usually doesn't work, because the little darlins' only fail when they overheat.
Ford mechanics once called the DuraSpark module .. NeverSpark, because they were notorious for failing.
As bad as they were, the replacements sold by many autoparts stores that are made in China are worse. Replace with a Motorcraft module.
The problem you are having could also be caused by the magnetic stator (aka pickup coil) inside the dizzy. But I sold far more modules than I ever did stators. If you aren't sure, replace both.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.