Another Rusty Manifold Bolt Thread
Another Rusty Manifold Bolt Thread
Hello,
Been a lurker here on and off for quite some time
1998 F-150 5.4, have had it since '99 and only just turned 66,000 miles
Anyways, like everyone else my passenger side manifold is leaking, back bolt is broken off in front of the manifold
Don't really have the money to pay someone to do the repair and normally I'm pretty capable of doing most of my mechanical work myself.
I started soaking the nuts/bolts last night, have the inner fender well removed as well as the started taken out.
Back bolt is broke as mentioned, next one on top looks/looked completely welded on and was completely round. Bottom ones don't look as bad
Don't know if I really screwed this up, but somewhere or other I read that someone just took a dremel and cut the nuts off to slip the manifold off and than pb blaster the remaining parts of the bolts and apply heat to remove them from the head.
I started cutting into the nuts as I didn't have any luck budging them, but now I'm wondering if I should just cut the bolt off flush with the manifold and slip them off, or am more than open to other suggestions?
Thanks and great site, it's helped me in the past with my '87 Ranger hunting/fishing truck
Been a lurker here on and off for quite some time
1998 F-150 5.4, have had it since '99 and only just turned 66,000 miles
Anyways, like everyone else my passenger side manifold is leaking, back bolt is broken off in front of the manifold
Don't really have the money to pay someone to do the repair and normally I'm pretty capable of doing most of my mechanical work myself.
I started soaking the nuts/bolts last night, have the inner fender well removed as well as the started taken out.
Back bolt is broke as mentioned, next one on top looks/looked completely welded on and was completely round. Bottom ones don't look as bad
Don't know if I really screwed this up, but somewhere or other I read that someone just took a dremel and cut the nuts off to slip the manifold off and than pb blaster the remaining parts of the bolts and apply heat to remove them from the head.
I started cutting into the nuts as I didn't have any luck budging them, but now I'm wondering if I should just cut the bolt off flush with the manifold and slip them off, or am more than open to other suggestions?
Thanks and great site, it's helped me in the past with my '87 Ranger hunting/fishing truck
In my experience, as I have replaced both manifolds on my '98 F150 with the 4.6 engine, try to remove them by the usual methods. If you are lucky, the stud will come out when you remove the nut. Actually, trying to sparate the nut from the stud is a waste of time & effort as the studs need to come out also. So back them out by gripping the nut or stud if possible.
If you have to cut them off or if they break off, then you can remove the manifold for access to the broken studs.
I used a stud remover that I purchased at Sears. It worked very well.
It came in a set of 4 or 5 that look like a socket that you place over the stud, tap it down with a ball pein hammer, then turn them out with a socket/ratchet.
I also used a tap to be sure the threads in the head were clean and clear of crud. Use lots of penetrating oil and do not force the tap, just need to clean them out good. Use anti-seize on the threads & nuts on installation.
Buy the eight new manifold studs & nuts & washers at the Ford dealer. Be sure to get the two bigger studs/nuts for the tailpipe attachment.
NAPA sells the exhaust manifolds for about $145 each. Gaskets are included.
Be sure the head mating surface is clean and flat.
For more working room, I jacked up the frame and put jack stands under the frame. This allows the frame & body to go up & the front wheel to drop for more access thru the wheel well.
If you have to cut them off or if they break off, then you can remove the manifold for access to the broken studs.
I used a stud remover that I purchased at Sears. It worked very well.
It came in a set of 4 or 5 that look like a socket that you place over the stud, tap it down with a ball pein hammer, then turn them out with a socket/ratchet.
I also used a tap to be sure the threads in the head were clean and clear of crud. Use lots of penetrating oil and do not force the tap, just need to clean them out good. Use anti-seize on the threads & nuts on installation.
Buy the eight new manifold studs & nuts & washers at the Ford dealer. Be sure to get the two bigger studs/nuts for the tailpipe attachment.
NAPA sells the exhaust manifolds for about $145 each. Gaskets are included.
Be sure the head mating surface is clean and flat.
For more working room, I jacked up the frame and put jack stands under the frame. This allows the frame & body to go up & the front wheel to drop for more access thru the wheel well.
I ended up having to cut 6 out of the 8 nuts off. Probably could have worked 2-3 or them the traditional way, but already kinda hacked them up.
One nut came off cleanly (bottom front)
Next one behind that backed out with the bolt
Other two bottom ones were essentially welded and completly shot. Thank god for the dremal extension tool.
All studs came out fairly easy, couple took a little more effort.
I'm stuck with the second from the back on top. I've got about an 1 1/4" of it sticking out. Have done a few heat cycles on it and lots of PB, so hopefully when I try it again in a little while I have some success. Otherwise I'll be looking into that stud remover tool, although the nearest Sears is 75 miles from here.
Wish I had a welder as I'd welt a washer/bolt onto it and take it from there.
Wish me luck
One nut came off cleanly (bottom front)
Next one behind that backed out with the bolt
Other two bottom ones were essentially welded and completly shot. Thank god for the dremal extension tool.
All studs came out fairly easy, couple took a little more effort.
I'm stuck with the second from the back on top. I've got about an 1 1/4" of it sticking out. Have done a few heat cycles on it and lots of PB, so hopefully when I try it again in a little while I have some success. Otherwise I'll be looking into that stud remover tool, although the nearest Sears is 75 miles from here.
Wish I had a welder as I'd welt a washer/bolt onto it and take it from there.
Wish me luck
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