Oil cooler removal / bypass temporarily - best way?
#1
Oil cooler removal / bypass temporarily - best way?
Hi all:
My oil cooler failed in a pretty big way.
I got a coolant rated 90 degree fitting and used the factory clamps to connect the two radiator hose lines together. That's solved.
On the oil cooler side... not solved so well.
At midnight being threatened to get my van off property by a wacko I temporarily installed a used 3/4" (or 5/8"??) coolant hose to connect the two inlet / outlet ports on the (failed) oil cooler together.
This quickly swelled up with oil. All was still ok. For. about. a. month.
Then you all know what happened next - catastrophic failure of the used coolant line. Yep, not rated for oil and higher pressures.
I got a new 5/8" coolant line a foot long for $1.79 and put that in for the time being to get me back home.
Is there any oil rated type of cap I could block off those oil cooler outlets with? Like a plumbing style 'jim cap' that is oil rated I could crank a hose clamp over?
OR what about for now completely removing the failed oil cooler?
As I understand it's a 14mm hex / allen bit to remove it.
I assume that oil stud that goes through the cooler in to the block is too long if the oil cooler is removed to put an oil filter back on? What about a longer one - like the Ford FL1A filter - something like that? Or would I need to get a shorter factory stud for the oil filter to bolt directly under the block - it's hard to find these details on microfiche / online.
Anyone remove / delete theirs?
I plan to reinstall one - I think. I will never tow with my e250 van. So not sure if it's really needed.
I would like to have something more solid to get me by - planning to buy a parts van soon to do the CNG to Gasoline fuel swap.
Thanks!
- Pic included. You can see my cooler lines connected with 90 and that's holding just fine. That's the new coolant rated only 1' hose connecting the oil cooler input / output together. I know it won't last.
My oil cooler failed in a pretty big way.
I got a coolant rated 90 degree fitting and used the factory clamps to connect the two radiator hose lines together. That's solved.
On the oil cooler side... not solved so well.
At midnight being threatened to get my van off property by a wacko I temporarily installed a used 3/4" (or 5/8"??) coolant hose to connect the two inlet / outlet ports on the (failed) oil cooler together.
This quickly swelled up with oil. All was still ok. For. about. a. month.
Then you all know what happened next - catastrophic failure of the used coolant line. Yep, not rated for oil and higher pressures.
I got a new 5/8" coolant line a foot long for $1.79 and put that in for the time being to get me back home.
Is there any oil rated type of cap I could block off those oil cooler outlets with? Like a plumbing style 'jim cap' that is oil rated I could crank a hose clamp over?
OR what about for now completely removing the failed oil cooler?
As I understand it's a 14mm hex / allen bit to remove it.
I assume that oil stud that goes through the cooler in to the block is too long if the oil cooler is removed to put an oil filter back on? What about a longer one - like the Ford FL1A filter - something like that? Or would I need to get a shorter factory stud for the oil filter to bolt directly under the block - it's hard to find these details on microfiche / online.
Anyone remove / delete theirs?
I plan to reinstall one - I think. I will never tow with my e250 van. So not sure if it's really needed.
I would like to have something more solid to get me by - planning to buy a parts van soon to do the CNG to Gasoline fuel swap.
Thanks!
- Pic included. You can see my cooler lines connected with 90 and that's holding just fine. That's the new coolant rated only 1' hose connecting the oil cooler input / output together. I know it won't last.
#2
#3
Thanks for the suggestion.
When my van blew the tired old coolant line Autozone recommended something like that.
The only one sort of close by (I was on foot now) was a hydraulic line maker but they only had a premade specific line that was something like 4' long for $48 pre tax.
Had been hoping for something a little less pricey - I guess that's a cheaper coolant hose that will blow after about 200 miles (?)
When my van blew the tired old coolant line Autozone recommended something like that.
The only one sort of close by (I was on foot now) was a hydraulic line maker but they only had a premade specific line that was something like 4' long for $48 pre tax.
Had been hoping for something a little less pricey - I guess that's a cheaper coolant hose that will blow after about 200 miles (?)
#4
#5
Thanks for the offer.
But, I am not in need of the coolant lines / hoses.
That's a really easy bypass to do - just get an appropriately rated coolant elbow - cost was $5 at Napa.
It's the oil line / block off / bypass I'm inquiring about.
I saw that you can special order from Napa and have it shipped free to any store oil / hydraulic internal stainless braided reinforced and oil resistant hose for $12 a foot.
Also Oreilly auto has the same for $10 / ft. "Gates - C5E - High-Temp Flexline Hose":
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2439&ppt=C0222
The only slight thing about that is the fittings. I don't think a typical screw clamp ring would do it - it looks to be crimp style needs.
I have been wondering about using PEX 3/4" copper crush rings as I have plenty of them and the crimping tool as well.
EDIT: Well, what I have won't work here. The I.D. on the Gates hose is 5/8" or .625" and the O.D. is 1"
My PEX stuff is either 1/2" or 3/4" only. Might try crushing it on with clamps. I'm not running through 3000 psi hydraulic fluid after all.
Details on the Gates C5E hose:
Recommended For: Air brake hose, power steering (CAUTION: Intended for heavy-duty commercial vehicle use only), fuel filter, engine and transmission coolant lines, and hot (+300°F) lube oil lines. Tube: Black, oil and heat resistant, synthetic rubber (Nitrile - Type C).
Reinforcement: One braid of high-tensile steel wire over one braid of polyester. Cover: Black, oil and heat resistant, textile braid impregnated with synthetic rubber. Green stripe for easy identification. Temperature Range: -40°F to +300°F (-40°C to +149°C). Air +250°F (+121°C) maximum only. For water emulsions see Temperature Limits Table.
Coupling Recommendation (See Crimp Data Manual 35019 or E-crimp): C5E Field Attachable Couplings (Section P) DOT FMVSS 106 Type A1, SAE J1405 and SAE J1402 Type A1 (-4 to -12). - See more at: http://www.gates.com/products/automo....kt1NSvDn.dpuf
But, I am not in need of the coolant lines / hoses.
That's a really easy bypass to do - just get an appropriately rated coolant elbow - cost was $5 at Napa.
It's the oil line / block off / bypass I'm inquiring about.
I saw that you can special order from Napa and have it shipped free to any store oil / hydraulic internal stainless braided reinforced and oil resistant hose for $12 a foot.
Also Oreilly auto has the same for $10 / ft. "Gates - C5E - High-Temp Flexline Hose":
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2439&ppt=C0222
The only slight thing about that is the fittings. I don't think a typical screw clamp ring would do it - it looks to be crimp style needs.
I have been wondering about using PEX 3/4" copper crush rings as I have plenty of them and the crimping tool as well.
EDIT: Well, what I have won't work here. The I.D. on the Gates hose is 5/8" or .625" and the O.D. is 1"
My PEX stuff is either 1/2" or 3/4" only. Might try crushing it on with clamps. I'm not running through 3000 psi hydraulic fluid after all.
Details on the Gates C5E hose:
Recommended For: Air brake hose, power steering (CAUTION: Intended for heavy-duty commercial vehicle use only), fuel filter, engine and transmission coolant lines, and hot (+300°F) lube oil lines. Tube: Black, oil and heat resistant, synthetic rubber (Nitrile - Type C).
Reinforcement: One braid of high-tensile steel wire over one braid of polyester. Cover: Black, oil and heat resistant, textile braid impregnated with synthetic rubber. Green stripe for easy identification. Temperature Range: -40°F to +300°F (-40°C to +149°C). Air +250°F (+121°C) maximum only. For water emulsions see Temperature Limits Table.
Coupling Recommendation (See Crimp Data Manual 35019 or E-crimp): C5E Field Attachable Couplings (Section P) DOT FMVSS 106 Type A1, SAE J1405 and SAE J1402 Type A1 (-4 to -12). - See more at: http://www.gates.com/products/automo....kt1NSvDn.dpuf
#6
Thanks for the offer.
But, I am not in need of the coolant lines / hoses.
That's a really easy bypass to do - just get an appropriately rated coolant elbow - cost was $5 at Napa.
It's the oil line / block off / bypass I'm inquiring about.
I saw that you can special order from Napa and have it shipped free to any store oil / hydraulic internal stainless braided reinforced and oil resistant hose for $12 a foot.
Also Oreilly auto has the same for $10 / ft. "Gates - C5E - High-Temp Flexline Hose":
Gates 70535 - C5E - High-Temp Flexline Hose | O'Reilly Auto Parts
The only slight thing about that is the fittings. I don't think a typical screw clamp ring would do it - it looks to be crimp style needs.
I have been wondering about using PEX 3/4" copper crush rings as I have plenty of them and the crimping tool as well.
EDIT: Well, what I have won't work here. The I.D. on the Gates hose is 5/8" or .625" and the O.D. is 1"
My PEX stuff is either 1/2" or 3/4" only. Might try crushing it on with clamps. I'm not running through 3000 psi hydraulic fluid after all.
Details on the Gates C5E hose:
Recommended For: Air brake hose, power steering (CAUTION: Intended for heavy-duty commercial vehicle use only), fuel filter, engine and transmission coolant lines, and hot (+300°F) lube oil lines. Tube: Black, oil and heat resistant, synthetic rubber (Nitrile - Type C).
Reinforcement: One braid of high-tensile steel wire over one braid of polyester. Cover: Black, oil and heat resistant, textile braid impregnated with synthetic rubber. Green stripe for easy identification. Temperature Range: -40°F to +300°F (-40°C to +149°C). Air +250°F (+121°C) maximum only. For water emulsions see Temperature Limits Table.
Coupling Recommendation (See Crimp Data Manual 35019 or E-crimp): C5E Field Attachable Couplings (Section P) DOT FMVSS 106 Type A1, SAE J1405 and SAE J1402 Type A1 (-4 to -12). - See more at: C5E High-Temp Flexline Hose | Gates Corporation
But, I am not in need of the coolant lines / hoses.
That's a really easy bypass to do - just get an appropriately rated coolant elbow - cost was $5 at Napa.
It's the oil line / block off / bypass I'm inquiring about.
I saw that you can special order from Napa and have it shipped free to any store oil / hydraulic internal stainless braided reinforced and oil resistant hose for $12 a foot.
Also Oreilly auto has the same for $10 / ft. "Gates - C5E - High-Temp Flexline Hose":
Gates 70535 - C5E - High-Temp Flexline Hose | O'Reilly Auto Parts
The only slight thing about that is the fittings. I don't think a typical screw clamp ring would do it - it looks to be crimp style needs.
I have been wondering about using PEX 3/4" copper crush rings as I have plenty of them and the crimping tool as well.
EDIT: Well, what I have won't work here. The I.D. on the Gates hose is 5/8" or .625" and the O.D. is 1"
My PEX stuff is either 1/2" or 3/4" only. Might try crushing it on with clamps. I'm not running through 3000 psi hydraulic fluid after all.
Details on the Gates C5E hose:
Recommended For: Air brake hose, power steering (CAUTION: Intended for heavy-duty commercial vehicle use only), fuel filter, engine and transmission coolant lines, and hot (+300°F) lube oil lines. Tube: Black, oil and heat resistant, synthetic rubber (Nitrile - Type C).
Reinforcement: One braid of high-tensile steel wire over one braid of polyester. Cover: Black, oil and heat resistant, textile braid impregnated with synthetic rubber. Green stripe for easy identification. Temperature Range: -40°F to +300°F (-40°C to +149°C). Air +250°F (+121°C) maximum only. For water emulsions see Temperature Limits Table.
Coupling Recommendation (See Crimp Data Manual 35019 or E-crimp): C5E Field Attachable Couplings (Section P) DOT FMVSS 106 Type A1, SAE J1405 and SAE J1402 Type A1 (-4 to -12). - See more at: C5E High-Temp Flexline Hose | Gates Corporation
Why not just replace the oil cooler?
The van should run between 180-210 degrees Fahrenheit at operating temp. My understanding is the oil gets 20-40 degrees hotter than that. The oil cooler keeps it down closer to operating temp. This is without towing. If you have the v10 you really should consider just replacing the part. It's a medium duty engine, it works pretty hard. If you're gonna take the fouled one off anyway, might as well put a new one on instead of trying to MacGyver some way around it lol
#7
Reasonable point made. Thanks.
Thank you for posting the information on the AZ kit. I will also look into that.
I suppose I had wondered if people had gone Aftermarket / non OEM and how they liked it. I've read some that the Ford oil cooler is a weakness and a common fault point. I am not sure if that's accurate but I've read that several times.
Thank you for posting the information on the AZ kit. I will also look into that.
I suppose I had wondered if people had gone Aftermarket / non OEM and how they liked it. I've read some that the Ford oil cooler is a weakness and a common fault point. I am not sure if that's accurate but I've read that several times.
Trending Topics
#8
Reasonable point made. Thanks.
Thank you for posting the information on the AZ kit. I will also look into that.
I suppose I had wondered if people had gone Aftermarket / non OEM and how they liked it. I've read some that the Ford oil cooler is a weakness and a common fault point. I am not sure if that's accurate but I've read that several times.
Thank you for posting the information on the AZ kit. I will also look into that.
I suppose I had wondered if people had gone Aftermarket / non OEM and how they liked it. I've read some that the Ford oil cooler is a weakness and a common fault point. I am not sure if that's accurate but I've read that several times.
Just my 2c. Good luck! !
#9
#10
Not all that comforting when it happens to you of course---over 4 different E250's with the 5.4 engines I've had no issues with this part.
#11
This is great to hear.
I am SURE the prior owner beached this van for 5 years and didn't register or run it because he was told he had a blown head gasket and the Ford dealer was probably gonna charge him thousands for the job.
This is a much simpler problem to deal with, it's just alarming if someone like me had never heard of a engine oil cooler like this.
I am SURE the prior owner beached this van for 5 years and didn't register or run it because he was told he had a blown head gasket and the Ford dealer was probably gonna charge him thousands for the job.
This is a much simpler problem to deal with, it's just alarming if someone like me had never heard of a engine oil cooler like this.
#12
Well, I just snapped up an 'old New stock' Ford OEM oil cooler part F7UE-6A642-EB for $66.10 shipped
which is the part number currently in the van.
What a p.i.t.a. trying to look up the part on the web. But anyway, it's getting shipped to me so that will go in next and I will skip the oil line bypass effort.
which is the part number currently in the van.
What a p.i.t.a. trying to look up the part on the web. But anyway, it's getting shipped to me so that will go in next and I will skip the oil line bypass effort.
#13
Well, I just snapped up an 'old New stock' Ford OEM oil cooler part F7UE-6A642-EB for $66.10 shipped
which is the part number currently in the van.
What a p.i.t.a. trying to look up the part on the web. But anyway, it's getting shipped to me so that will go in next and I will skip the oil line bypass effort.
which is the part number currently in the van.
What a p.i.t.a. trying to look up the part on the web. But anyway, it's getting shipped to me so that will go in next and I will skip the oil line bypass effort.
#15
Yikes. That looks pretty tiny. I haven't gotten mine yet. I also shipped it to where the van is - currently 3000 miles away. But it's an exact older stock number that was in mine:
# F7UE-6A642-EB
I know that part # was updated to a new part number - maybe a different design / who knows? But that was the part # that was in my van and the one I found on fleabay.
I like your tie off at the cooler - looks familiar!
I am sure you are aware but I guess the thought is that style hose might hold in there for about 200 miles and then kaboom!
# F7UE-6A642-EB
I know that part # was updated to a new part number - maybe a different design / who knows? But that was the part # that was in my van and the one I found on fleabay.
I like your tie off at the cooler - looks familiar!
I am sure you are aware but I guess the thought is that style hose might hold in there for about 200 miles and then kaboom!