Is there a fusible link from the alternator to the battery?

The new alternator that I put on and got tested is not charging the battery. Was wondering if it could be a fusible link but I couldn't find it. Does anybody know where it is located on a 2000 ranger?

Also, I put a DC volt meter on the negative side of the battery and the positive side of the CHARGING wire that would be connected to the alternator and got the same reading as if I put the meter on the positive of the battery.

Does this mean the fusible link is good?

 

Check the fuse for the alternators field coil, located in the underhood power distribution box. If it's blown the alternator won't self excite & therefore no output!!!!

BTW, welcome to FTE.

 

Thanks for the welcome, also I replaced the fuse under the hood. It is a 30 amp box fuse or whatever they called.

 

OK, so is it working after replacing the 30 amp fuse????

Was that the #14 generator voltage regulator fuse that you replaced????

Have you checked it since installing the new alternator, because if this wires insulation is damaged & shorting to ground, it could have blown again.

Seeing as how "Murpheys Law" is still alive & well, did you have the new alternator bench tested for ouput under load, before you left the store with it????

 

I am going to bump this thread.

04 4.0 Battery light came on this am and before I go throw an alternator on it..
Tested it and I am at 11 volts

Ok, now what wire should I be looking at for battery voltage as my exciter wire?

batter voltage is down to 11volts

I have 11volts on my blk/org
I have 11volts on my yel/wht
I have 1.4volts on my lt. grn/red
I have ZERO on my wht/blk

When I put battery voltage(11volts) to the wht/blk It turns the battery light off.

SO, where does the white/black wire get it power? From the alternator? or from somewhere else?

BTW This is a NEW harness that runs from the alternator to the battery. Has about 15k on it I installed last december

 

Enter your vehicle info & have a look here at the wiring pictorial routing & color codes. Search Wiring Diagrams
Be sure to check the alternator field fuse, as if it's blown, no output.
Sounds like you need to put the battery on a 4-6 amp slow charge with a smart charger to bring it back up to a full charge. The alternator isn't designed to be a battery charger, just to quickly put back whats taken out for a start, or to meet the load when we're driving & to keep the battery topped up.
If the field fuse quickly blows again, suspect a shorted diode in the rectifier assy.
If that's the case, it's time for a new, reman, rebuilt, or have this one repaired by a good shop that can test their work.
If you buy a replacement, have it bench tested before leaving the store with it.
Let us know what you find.

 

My owners manual is NOT showing a fuse for the alternator(under hood or kick panel)

 

Check the fusible links here http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=29353

 

Like I said, I have power on all the wires that have Fusable links

I guess my alternator is bad

 

There should be a grounding screw on the back side of the alternator that allows you to test the output. Is there enough room on your truck to try this?
My '98 had the original alternator fail with about 150K miles on it a couple of weeks ago. I had a new NSA-branded alternator in the garage (purchased from RockAuto about a year ago) just waiting to be put into action. It was new, it was on closeout and it was cheap, so I threw it in with a different order. This is my wife's truck and she's sometimes on call, so her vehicle can't be down for very long.
The replacement alternator fixed the problem, but I'm going to rebuild the original Motorcraft, as I just don't have that much faith in the aftermarket.

 

Have you been having indications of alternator charging problems?
Check the alternator connections for loose or corroded connections.
If the connections & wiring look ok, pull the alternator & have it bench checked for under load output let us know what you find.

 

Ordered another alternator from Ford
$145

Advance was $137


So it was a no brainer


I just got the old Alternator off. I would like to know who's brilliant idea it was to put steel bolts into a aluminum bracket. All 3 bolts were seized solid. It took me an HOUR to take out 3 bolts that were easily accessible. All 3 were galled, I have to REtap the bracket and chase the threads on the bolts. Then LIBERALLY coat in antiseeze

The harness was BRAND new Ford last year when I redid the truck. Wiggling the plug did Nothing. But if I put battery voltage to the alternator, it charged. So here is to an alternator to fix it

 

Alternator fixed it

 

Ok, good feedback & to hear the replacement alternator yielded Joy!!!! EDIT: Be sure to take the time to use your smart charger to Slowly bring the battery back up to a Full charge, so as not to over heat the battery & new alternator, as at 11 volts the battery is at about a 10% soc, so the new altinator will try to do it quickly with mucho amps, not good for either.

 

Fired it up and let it run for 20 min.

The engine that is in the truck is not long for this world anyway.