I am currently looking to build a 351w. I got a block that was suppose to have been freshly rebuilt, but I am unsure. It's a 1974 block according to the casting ID. I will probably break it down and rebuild it. Here it is below




OK enough of it
So my question is does this block look good?
Also I have purchased a few other items as well and wondering if it will all go together ok.
I bought some D0oE heads which are here below




OK so there's the heads, anyone see anything wrong? Will these work for my motor?
In addition I also bought a comp-cam kit which is below

Here's the Specs:
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 600-4,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 206
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 212
Duration at 050 inch Lift 206 int./212 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 250
Advertised Exhaust Duration 260
Advertised Duration 250 int./260 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.461 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.474 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.461 int./0.474 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Grind Number FW XE250H-10
Computer-Controlled Compatible No
Lifters Included Yes
Lifter Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Valve Springs Included Yes
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.437 in.

Am I going in the right direction? Thanks for the help!

 

That's looks great to me, you got a stock rebuilt bottom end and you need valves and maybe some work on the heads to make them unleaded compatable, but otherwise it should all work just fine.. and make really good power.

 

As Conanski posted, you will have to have hardened valve seats installed in these heads
to make them compatible with unleaded fuel. Also look at how small the exhaust ports
are on these heads. They are the same size as 289/302 ports. Some good porting
work on the exhaust ports really helps performance.

 

You may want to go with some different heads...price what it will cost to get those up and going and compare some aftermarket or used gt40's. I ran D0OE's without hardened seats and they lasted less than 10k miles

 

This is always good advice, especially since you can have professionally ported E7's with valves and springs installed for about $600/pr from Powerheads or Thumper Performance.

 

I also have a 1984 351w from a full size ford according to ID, probably econoline. Will the heads off that work? Would it be better to use those or would I get more power from the D0oe heads? When you say hardened valve seat, will the ones that I have with the comp-cam kit not work? What would I have to do to get them to run unleaded? I have never done this before, but my dad rebuilds chevy motors, so I think with his help I can do this. What all do I need and what do I need to do?

 

Your Comp cams kit does not have valve seats in it.. it could have valve seals though. Installing seats is something that a machine shop will have to do, along with new guides and such, and that's what we're talking about when we say.. "get an estimate on how much it's going to cost to have these heads made ready to use", it will be this machine work plus the cost of valves and springs, and locks and retainers. Then compare that to the cost of ready-to-go heads from one of the vendors I mentioned above, and factor in that they will be professionally ported and will outflow your D0OE heads by quite a bit, and you start to see why it's usually better value to buy heads than build them.

Your '84 heads are smog era castings with larger combustion chambers so they're almost the worst head Ford ever made.

 

I'm puttng a 351w together this next week, for my 86 F250. I took out the 302efi.

This is my 2nd windsor build in 2 years. The 1st one was $5500, new after market everything, balanced and blueprinted ( avatar and sig motor). The one I'm doing now is for my boat hauling plow truck. Shooting for about $1000-1200.

Like others said, Looks like your going down the right track.
First thing I'd do id pull a couple main and Rod caps to plastigage the bearing clearance.
you could then just keep putting it together, But I agree pulling it apart and reassembling it would be a good idea. if for nothing else, to inspect and clean it. Is that surface rust in the Cylinders? If so then definately pop out the pistons and lightly hone the rust out. I've started junk yard motors like that and they run just fine, but this thing looks like it's gonna be a keeper.
When building a motor, it can't be clean enough.

For what its worth, here is the build I'm doing now

- Junkyard complete engine Core, '72 351W from a Merc cougar, D2 block, D0OE heads Std bore and Crank, had a bent Push rod - $150

-.030" pistons stock cast, I had from a Previous motor - FREEBIE

- GT40P heads, ebay, from an '98 explorer, said 90k miles look very clean - $167 + $90 = $257 delivered (was quoted Approx $400 for giudes, hardened seats and a valve job for the stock D0OE heads, not including any valves or springs. and Yes the GT's may need a valve Job $120. they should arrive next week.)

- Edelbrock Performer intake, ebay black powder coated - $200

- Edelbrock performer 600 cfm carb, ebay, risky buy but $260 new, - $115

- Edelbrock Performer cam and Lifters, Jegs - $144

- Edelbrock timing Chain, Jegs - $45

- Rod & Main Bearings .001", Rings .030", Cam Bearings, Melling oil pump, Felpro gasket set. CarQuest -$240 Got a steal. I threatened Jegs.

Bore & boil the Block, (no decking or line boring) - $180

Awe Man still over budget, $1331
well I should be able to find someone to buy the D0OE heads for $100

I have a pretty rigorous cleaning procedure, if your interested.

Oh Yeah I have a set of '84 heads too!! if you need em.



Keep us posted

 

Sounds like you know what you're doing, hahaha! I'd love to know you're cleaning procedure. I didn't know 98 Explorers had GT40 heads in them, new to me. Maybe I can go check out my local yard and see if I cant find some. I appreciate all your help and hopefully I can keep in touch with you and let you know how mine goes, been raining for a minute and haven't had a chance to do much more. The cylinder does have some surface rust, my buddy told me with some emery cloth I could more than likely get that surface rust out without damaging the walls.

 

I would also go with cleaning the cylinder bores with very fine emery and not take out the pistons. Then again, it might be better to just put some light oil on the cylinders and rotate the engine a few times to see if the rust will be wiped off.

Probably a lot of engines in vehicles that sit outside without running for a few months have cylinders that rusty but the owner never knows, he just starts the truck and away he drives with no harm done.

 

77F100GUY,
well, I broke down and bought some pistons too, so now i'm up to 1500.

Anyway I just wanted to get back and say i hadn't forgot about that cleaning and block prep. My block is out getting bored and I wanted to take some pics of it.

 

Not trying to hijack but I'd be interested in hearing that! Thanks

 

I kinda forgot, Sorry about that.
Once the boating season started the wife keeps me busy being the captain.

I got my block back a few weeks ago from boring. it sits on the engine stand soaked in WD-40. Waiting for me to get cleaning. Perfect time to get cleaning.

I will get something going on it this week. I'll start another build thread or resume another thread I already started on this block.