When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ok i decided to do all the work on my truck myself after getting a few quotes and realizing my water pump was starting to weep as well. ok i pulled the radiator and fan shroud and rented a fan clutch removal tool kit from the auto parts store, only problem is none of the wrenches fit the nut on the fan cluch, one is some what close but really sloppy i tried removing it but it felt like i would round it off if i tried any harder to get it loose. so i need to know what size that nut is so i can get the proper wrench 40mm is too small 48 is too big.
so after i ran into that snag i decided to start working on the injector o ring not picking up the o ring till morning so i got the valve covers removed and it looks like it will be pretty easy other than the rear most injector on the passenger side, is it going to clear the ac box if not what needs to be done to make the clearance?
It should clear it. If not, two options a person could go with, one being to losen the engine mount nuts and jacking up the passenger side of the motor to give you a few extra inches. The second being using a 10mm deep socket, and loosening the AC box from cab to give a little more play.
I have read a lot of posts about the injector job and have never heard of anyone mention having to raise the engine or remove the ac box. I think the injector should come out the way it is. Sorry, can't help any with the nut size.
On the heater box there is a small enclosed box that is attached to the main heater box with two screws. It has a small hose attached to it if I remember right. That box might need removed to get the rear passenger injector out. I can't remember if the foil insulation was cut before or after I did that job, but I think it needs to be cut to get the box off. Sorry, it's been a long time since I had the injectors out.
On the heater box there is a small enclosed box that is attached to the main heater box with two screws. It has a small hose attached to it if I remember right. That box might need removed to get the rear passenger injector out. I can't remember if the foil insulation was cut before or after I did that job, but I think it needs to be cut to get the box off. Sorry, it's been a long time since I had the injectors out.
You don't have to raise the motor to get the rear passenger injector out. I removed the box that Magkarl is talking about to get the injector out. My truck still had the foil on it and at first I thought removing the foil was enough but it wasn't so I removed the two screws and the injector came right out with no problems.
luckily you have a 96, mine wasn't screwed on yet in my 94. I still don't have the vacuum box.
Thats all it is. I had to chizzle mine off with a putty knife.
Use a pry bar if you have one to pop the injectors up.
Stay away from the connectors when you put them back in
use a dead blow hammer to install them, and lube up the injectors really good when you stick them in so the o-rings dont bind up.
be sure to suck up the excess oil in the cylinders or you'll get some nice hydro lock and bend a rod.
woo hoo, i finally got it, i was thinking it was a left handed thread but its not, looks like i just bought the removal tool set from the auto parts store though because i bent the crap out of one of the tools for holding the pulley in place. i had to grid down one of my big wrenches that fit the nut but was too wide probably had to take about a 1/4 inch of material off of it. well back to work on it burning the midnight oil...lol
woo hoo, i finally got it, i was thinking it was a left handed thread but its not, looks like i just bought the removal tool set from the auto parts store though because i bent the crap out of one of the tools for holding the pulley in place. i had to grid down one of my big wrenches that fit the nut but was too wide probably had to take about a 1/4 inch of material off of it. well back to work on it burning the midnight oil...lol
Na you don't need to buy it just bend it back with a big hammar and call it good, Those parts store charge to much for those junk china popmetal tools anyway.
well i got it all finished up last night and started it up this morning, had a coolant leak at the t-stat housing took care of that, and now i have an annoying belt squeak, might have to go buy a new belt although this one is only about a year old, and just after about 10 restarts driving the truck around today i think the new gpr went out already. i think the stantor relay mod is going to happen very soon. the truck seems to run a lot better, revs smooth and the smoke seems to be all cleared out now. its starting easier as well so most the air must be worked outta the hpop system gonna take it in for an oil change shortly.
i didn't end up buying the removal set i just told them some of the pieces were bent and the damn thing didn't work worth a ****
woo hoo, i had to grid down one of my big wrenches that fit the nut but was too wide probably had to take about a 1/4 inch of material off of it. well back to work on it burning the midnight oil...lol