Unless you drive 30,000 miles per year and 90% of that is on the highway, and electric fan to replace teh stock fan is a waste of money and not worth the aggravation. You will need a fan with at least about 3300 cfm.

What I did is I installed a low profile pusher fan on my condenser that is triggered by the AC system, and the temperature probe. The kit for this along was expensive, and does not produce enough airflow on its own to replace the stock fan. Mine only serves to help the main fan at low RPM and to get more airflow through the condenser.

 

I found a used one from a Windstar. I installed a contact switch, installed between the idle stop screw. then tapped the power to the ignition switch with a 5 amp fuse. Now when the gas peddle is pressed it turns off. when at idle it turns on. works fine for a total cost of $35.00 and a few hours worth of work. even found the correct zip ties that fit between the fins on the radiator to the electric fan.

 

Damn, you're quick. And resourceful too! A Windstar fan with a contact switch on the throttle linkage? You're officially my hero Muffinman.

You might want to think about running the fan via a relay to keep the electrical load off of your contact switch, though. That fan draws about 20-25 amps on startup.

 

Well I used a cube relay and socket, since I am a Electrician. I have loads of this tuff setting around. why I got the idea while playing in the garage. The signal is just a normal flat arm type. I used two screws to mount it to the side of the throttle plate. Works real good too.

 

Oops, mea culpa. Ididn't know you had the knowledge and goodies just waiting for a cool project like this. Nice Job.

 

I have a question about my A/C. It blows ice cold but the compressor cycles. It doesn't stay on indefinitely. It seems to happen only when I accelerate. Is there a problem?

 

Heavy foot?
The PCM will cut out the AC compressor on moderate to heavy acceleration. If your Throttle Position Sensor is getting flaky it can cause excessive cycling on acceleration.
Some clutch cycling is normal, depending on ambient temp and other factors.

 

A fully functioning AC system may keep the compressor engaged only at idle. When you start cruising at higher engine speeds, the pressure switch will cycle the compressor off and on to keep the pressure in some "normal" range. (Unfortunately, this only works by detecting pressure drop on the low side, and if pressure builds up too much on the high side, it vents out the blow-off valve.) And as Isrx101 said, the EEC cuts off the compressor at high throttle openings, and it uses the TPS to determine that.

If you have a set of gauges, hook them up to the AC lines and see what pressures they run at. There are charts for the different types of refrigerants. EG, for the R12 based stuff in my car, the pressure switch is around 40 psig. It shuts off around 30, and comes back on around 45. I think the high side is around 220 psig when working properly (which is still is after my last big fix last year, knock wood).

Muffinman, where did you install the electric fan? I have an aftermarket ATF cooler that covers half the front, so if I were to do the same thing, I would have to get something small enough to fit the other half. That's about 11" wide, and I would wonder whether that would be worth the effort.

 

Yep, I had a new compressor put and had a full service last year. I just was noticing that at idle the compressor wasn't cycling yet at cruise (55mph+) I could sometimes feel the system cycling.

Today was a much warmer day (85F +) and I wasn't feeling the system cycling.

For $300 it was a good investment because it still blows ice cold and has been nice to travel in comfort. Too bad it isn't rear as well, but oh well. After a while the rear passengers get cool enough and I have to turn it down.

 

Hi, Having a problem with my 93 extended with both air and heat front and rear. I can,t stop the hot water ,hot air in the heater system from mixing, and keeping the air from working at comfortable level. HELP

 

Might try checking the vent doors, to see if they close all the way. also you could have a vacuum leak on the outside next to the dryier or inside the switch housing.

 

Sounds like a problem with the blender door. This is vacuum activated.

Does the air flow go where you directed it, as in floor/vents/defrost, or does it come out of defrost no matter where you set it? If the latter, then it's a simple case of loss of vacuum to the heater controls. Look under the hood near the passenger side, and look for some really thin plastic lines. These are the vacuum source lines for the HVAC controls. They can get brittle and crack, or in my case, chewed up by rodents. If that's the case, replace with some thin vacuum lines from your local auto parts store.

If the redirection works, then it's just the vacuum controller for the heater blender. That may be the motor itself or a leak in the controller, but it would require getting at these things to diagnose.

Check under the hood first for the simpler things.