Sometimes AC, Sometimes defrost...Always infuriating
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Enid America
Sometimes AC, Sometimes defrost...Always infuriating
Ok, so I've been looking through some of the previous posts, and I haven't found the answer I need. I know that this is because of a problem with a vacuum tube somewhere, but where should I start to look? People say to look in the hubs with ESOF, but I don't have that. My PSD 4x4 is manual/manual. And since I'm almost a super n00b at this, I'm going to need directions/pictures similar to what you'd tell a 4 year old.
Also, when it is working, it sometimes stops being cold for a little bit. I'd say 10 mins, then it comes back. This happens both when I'm driving and when I'm at a stop. I probably need to recharge the AC? How do I tell if I've got r-12 or r-134?
Thanks for all the help guys, I'd definitely be way poorer and much angrier if I didn't have the help of you all.
Also, when it is working, it sometimes stops being cold for a little bit. I'd say 10 mins, then it comes back. This happens both when I'm driving and when I'm at a stop. I probably need to recharge the AC? How do I tell if I've got r-12 or r-134?
Thanks for all the help guys, I'd definitely be way poorer and much angrier if I didn't have the help of you all.
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
You still have a vacuum pump for the HVAC controls. Somewhere, you have a leak. Pump is mounted on the pass. side fender well. Find the lines and if you're lucky, the leak will be under the hood and not under the dash.
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From: Enid America
Cool. I can do that, I think haha. The leak will either be a few tubes that aren't connected, or a hole in one right? If there's no big visible gap, how do I find the hole? I can't turn it on and look with soapy water right? That'd be bad news I feel.
Also, happen to have a picture of the vacuum pump?
Also, happen to have a picture of the vacuum pump?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Millbrook Alabama
If you dont find the leak under the hood, then open your glove compartment, take all the stuff out and lay it on the floorboard, gently squeeze the sides of the glove compartment to release the tabs that hold it and let it fall forward. Now you will see a vacuum manifold with red, blue, and black tubes going to it, make sure all are connected.
Your truck has R-134a, this info will be found on a sticker under the hood on the radiator crossmember.
Your truck has R-134a, this info will be found on a sticker under the hood on the radiator crossmember.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Before you blindly put refrigerant in, I'd put a set of gauges on it. The clutch can also need re-gapped causing the issue you're describing. Next time it fails, pop the hood & see if the compressor clutch is pulled in. If it's not, tap the face of it with something and see if it kicks in. If it does, you have to remove some shimming on the clutch hub.
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From: Enid America
Ok, sounds like a plan. Where's the clutch? I get that it's on the compressor, but where's that? Like I said before, I'm not all that savvy with this, but I'm trying to learn. I had a Haynes, but I lost it when I moved a month or so ago.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
The clutch is on the end of the pulley for the AC compressor. The AC compressor is the big honking thing on the top on the opposite side of the alternator. The serpentine belt runs to it and the clutch will engage or disengage the wheel that runs the compressor.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Enid America
Ok, so I didn't find a crack in any tube, and they all seemed to be connected. How can I tell if my pump is bad? It's just me here, so if there's a way to check when I'm alone, that would be preferable. Thanks guys.
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Concord NC
You need to make sure the pump is even running. It should run for about 15-20 seconds after you turn the key on. You probably can hear it from inside the cab, if not, turn the switch on and run to front and check to see if it is running and if it is stopping running. If your defrost is coming and going, then I would think it is running, but leaking. To check it, you probably need a vacuum gauge to do it right, but if you pull the tube and do the finger test, you should be able you tell if it has any vacuum. If it seems to have good vacuum at the closest point, the check it after the canister, if good, then on down the line until you find the problem.
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From: Enid America
Yea, it was coming and going, but now its just long gone. For a while, it would be ok in the morning when it wasn't hot, but when it hit like 95 out, it went to defrost. And now it's stuck there, so I figured its doneski. I'll check it out tomorrow. Does the pump sound like anything specific or describable?
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
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From: Concord NC
Just a faint hum in the cab, but if you are near it while it's running, you will hear and feel it. You could unplug it, the key on, then plug it up while you are standing there, if it starts, it should cut off after 20 seconds or less.
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From: Enid America
Ok, so the pump is good. The problem is the electrical plug. Its just lose and the pump doesn't turn on. but if I push the plug in and hold it, it works fine. After a while of the pump going, I assume that it shakes it loose. Any ideas how to tighten up that plug? Maybe zip tie it together?
