The Ingalls/MOOG versions get you about 2.25 degrees of caster adjustment either way so 4.5 degrees total from full positive to full negative rotation.

 

To move something 1 degree, it must be moved at a 1 to 60 ratio. (1 degre at 60 miles is 1 mile) So if the arms were 60 inches long, it would take 4.5" to move it 4.5 degrees. Now if the arm is 20" long, it would take 1.5" to move it 4.5 degrees. Does the radius arm bracket have that much room to move?

 

I haven't done the math and I'm trying to rely on my memory to be honest so I could be wrong and they may only allow a total of 2.25 degrees of adjustment. Regardless, it came in quite handy aligning the truck after the lift was installed.

And given the size of the hole in the radius arm mount with the bushing removed, I'd estimate that you could get a good 3/4-1" of play with the bushing fully removed. (The reason the arms clunk so badly when the bushings fail).

 

So if you adjust the arms down, it will self center better. (less wonder) Is there any bad side effect to this. (doing the max adjustment)

 

The caster setting should always be set to the specifications for the truck and is every bit as critical as camber and toe settings. The adjust-ability that these bushings allow for is not incorporated into the OEM bushings. Instead, the radius arms are held at the center of the aft mounting brackets. The adjustment should only be used in the event you can't get the caster setting correct. Misaligned caster settings will cause cupping and other uneven tire wear. Lifted TTB trucks are tricky as everyone knows so adding the adjustable bushings is helpful when the shims around the upper ball-joint studs don't allow enough adjustment or you need more camber adjustment at the shims so you can't compromise and roll the shim to get the caster adjustment too.

 

I recently replaced all of my suspension bushings with polyurethane ones. It really wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. I did a search on here and found a tool for doing the axle pivot bushing. I fabricated a similar one with some store bought parts, and used it for several of the bushings. My radius arm brackets were riveted on so I just unbolted the lower shock and upper spring retainer (with the vehicle jacked on stands and the wheel off and spindle lowered as far as it would go). I pulled the radius arm forward (with a come-along attached to my lawn tractor), replaced bushing, and pulled it back into the bracket (same come-along attached to the rear axle, finished putting the bushings on and bolted it all back up. I did not need to have the truck aligned, since I did not do anything with the steering components. I have some pictures here; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...build-log.html.
I do believe that the truck rides better now than it did new, now that I have changed to the poly bushings.

 

If the rivets are removed from the rear bracket already is it fair for a pro to charge the same amount as if the rivets had been ground off. In other words, the fee shown in the alltell book

 

Its actually a pretty easy job I do them all the time, Jack the truck up nice and high put it on jackstands jack up the I-beam a little on whatever side you are doing with a floorjack, unbolts the top shock nuts , remove the 2 ,13mm bolts on the top of spring tower and slowly lower I-beam , 99 % of coil spring pressure will be gone at this point , this is the safest, easiest way to do this job then simply pull the whole assembly foward replace bushing and reverse the procedure.....

 

Not all of the aft mounting brackets were riveted in in the first place.

 

almost forgot!! if the truck is equipped with a sway bar disconnect that first...