Sound Deadening and Heat Insulation – DO IT YOURSELF (DIY)
#1
Sound Deadening and Heat Insulation – DO IT YOURSELF (DIY)
Hi everyone!
Probably many of you heard about someone who installed sound deadening in their cars and didn’t really see any positive changes and effects. Why so? The quality of the material was fine but still there are no effects. And on the contrary there are some lucky ones who are amazed with the effect just after having their car doors insulated. So many people with so many different minds.
One can compare car sound deadening in car with cooking meal. If you don’t know right proportions, right ingredients to take, good chances that your meal won’t be as good and delicious as you wanted it to be, even if you have all products needed. The same thing happens with car insulation. Before sound deadening your car, you have to understand why and how you’ll do it. That’s why I find it’s important to understand the whole process and only after that discuss what material is needed.
I spent some time trying to learn as much info as I can about car insulation. I was to install it, talk with dudes online about it. After some research on this topic, I came to the conclusion that the problem is not with the material itself. About 80 % of unsatisfied people don’t really follow the instruction for installation and the results of car insulation leave much to be desired. I am dead sure that it will be effective if you do follow the instruction properly. I become experienced in this issue I learnt about car sound deadening , let me share my knowledge with you. Here some, useful tips for sound deadening.
Content:
SOUND DEADENING AND <span>HE</span><span>AT</span> <span>INSULA</span><span>TION</span></a> – DO IT YOURSELF (DIY)
Many of you wanted to do that using their own hands. Someone did, someone just dreaming.
Least said, soonest mended. Amazing statistics:
You should spend about 40 hours of continuous learning noise on a Fo<span>rd</span> Tru<span>ck</span> forum and get acquainted with General information on the Internet. But! The average mechanic installation <span>For</span>d f<span>-1</span>50: 2 doors 12 hours, 4 doors 17 hours. The installation process takes about 4-5 hours. The rest of the time is spent on disassembly of the interior of cars. You just think about these data! A minimum of 40 hours to study, and only 17 hours to install insulation on the whole car.
The main thing is to carefully remove and put back interior parts. It is feasible for any adequate individual. Nothing is tricky neither about choosing the right material nor about the installation procedure. This I will tell you later. You can also read good topics on the forums how people did it themselves (spend a minimum of 40 hours I checked).
You don’t have to complete the entire vehicle straightaway! You can do that partially. Complete sound deadening of the <span>fu</span>ll ve<span>hic</span>le is surely the best thing yet fairly tedious (take off parts, install the insulation, put back the trim). Not to mention the fact that you would have to buy a bunch of deadener at once. I personally prefer to do that once and forever. I have only realized that when I deadened my 3rd car. First two of the vehicles I sound deadened in stages. Different cars have its weak points in terms of noise. It is important to sound deaden them first and then continue if you want higher efficiency.
For example, I didn't do the roof on my car (I was young at the time and low on cash). But the door did not regret the money, and did them perfectly. It is best though to at least partially <span>sou</span>nd <span>deade</span>ner the car than no soundproofing at all.
Based on my experience, many who decided to do the soundproofing have made very pathetic mistakes at the beginning. The most annoying that there are so many mistakes - that when they say " damn, dude, but you did not do that ? " , He replies , "Damn ! Well it's obvious why I have not guessed myself? Agree it's a shame because of a small mistake, lose a lot, the main thing is to get a huge disappointment. It is best to avoid it and save time, efforts and money.
How to start!
Start with doors if you do the partial sound proofing. First, it is not a big area which means low consumption. Second, it really works ! Third, you can drive with a disassembled door (if you suddenly do not have time to collect it)
Complete deadening of F<span>or</span>d Tr<span>uc</span>k for instance should be started with a floor, firewall and cab re<span>ar</span> w<span>al</span>l. Those are the most critical areas. That is almost a weekend spent and 115 sq.ft. of material used. Then you get 50 % of result. You can complete the remaining parts later down the road though. Every second Ford deadening topic in internet is about soundproofing of these particular zones of the car.
Anyways, we have got to deaden the noisiest areas. I felt the difference at every stage of the process. After all, it's nice.. when you realize that the time spent not in vain!
Let’s brake it down by areas. Сhoose one.
Once again, the insulation process is all about right sequence. Not even about the right type of insulation. The guys once again. Insulation of the car is like cooking. If you do everything according to the recipe, you'll have a great lunch (despite the fact you use expensive or cheap products). If you miss one point, you risk damaging the dish, and it have thrown in the garbage.
Save your time and do not repeat common mistakes to <span>ge</span>t <span>10</span>0 % out of your efforts.
Probably many of you heard about someone who installed sound deadening in their cars and didn’t really see any positive changes and effects. Why so? The quality of the material was fine but still there are no effects. And on the contrary there are some lucky ones who are amazed with the effect just after having their car doors insulated. So many people with so many different minds.
One can compare car sound deadening in car with cooking meal. If you don’t know right proportions, right ingredients to take, good chances that your meal won’t be as good and delicious as you wanted it to be, even if you have all products needed. The same thing happens with car insulation. Before sound deadening your car, you have to understand why and how you’ll do it. That’s why I find it’s important to understand the whole process and only after that discuss what material is needed.
I spent some time trying to learn as much info as I can about car insulation. I was to install it, talk with dudes online about it. After some research on this topic, I came to the conclusion that the problem is not with the material itself. About 80 % of unsatisfied people don’t really follow the instruction for installation and the results of car insulation leave much to be desired. I am dead sure that it will be effective if you do follow the instruction properly. I become experienced in this issue I learnt about car sound deadening , let me share my knowledge with you. Here some, useful tips for sound deadening.
Content:
- Sound Deadening and Heat Insulation – DO IT YOURSELF (DIY) – is what you are reading now
- Detailed breakdown of sound deadening process for each area of the vehicle. (plenty useful tips):
- Deadening: Floor – Firewall - Rear firewall
- Deadening: Doors
- Deadening: Roof
- Deadening: Hood
- Special: Trunk (for those who also deaden the back area in a trucks like Ford)
- How to choose the sound deadener material?
- What is the consumption per car? How to calculate that right?
- General installation guideline. (Instructions – how to do the installation, as well as the real tips on how to make the material has fallen off, so that in it there rust, and most importantly how to get the effect)
- Pro general tips (common recommendations, articles, fun facts, important facts about insulation)
- Noico sound deadening materials
SOUND DEADENING AND <span>HE</span><span>AT</span> <span>INSULA</span><span>TION</span></a> – DO IT YOURSELF (DIY)
Many of you wanted to do that using their own hands. Someone did, someone just dreaming.
Least said, soonest mended. Amazing statistics:
You should spend about 40 hours of continuous learning noise on a Fo<span>rd</span> Tru<span>ck</span> forum and get acquainted with General information on the Internet. But! The average mechanic installation <span>For</span>d f<span>-1</span>50: 2 doors 12 hours, 4 doors 17 hours. The installation process takes about 4-5 hours. The rest of the time is spent on disassembly of the interior of cars. You just think about these data! A minimum of 40 hours to study, and only 17 hours to install insulation on the whole car.
The main thing is to carefully remove and put back interior parts. It is feasible for any adequate individual. Nothing is tricky neither about choosing the right material nor about the installation procedure. This I will tell you later. You can also read good topics on the forums how people did it themselves (spend a minimum of 40 hours I checked).
You don’t have to complete the entire vehicle straightaway! You can do that partially. Complete sound deadening of the <span>fu</span>ll ve<span>hic</span>le is surely the best thing yet fairly tedious (take off parts, install the insulation, put back the trim). Not to mention the fact that you would have to buy a bunch of deadener at once. I personally prefer to do that once and forever. I have only realized that when I deadened my 3rd car. First two of the vehicles I sound deadened in stages. Different cars have its weak points in terms of noise. It is important to sound deaden them first and then continue if you want higher efficiency.
For example, I didn't do the roof on my car (I was young at the time and low on cash). But the door did not regret the money, and did them perfectly. It is best though to at least partially <span>sou</span>nd <span>deade</span>ner the car than no soundproofing at all.
Based on my experience, many who decided to do the soundproofing have made very pathetic mistakes at the beginning. The most annoying that there are so many mistakes - that when they say " damn, dude, but you did not do that ? " , He replies , "Damn ! Well it's obvious why I have not guessed myself? Agree it's a shame because of a small mistake, lose a lot, the main thing is to get a huge disappointment. It is best to avoid it and save time, efforts and money.
How to start!
Start with doors if you do the partial sound proofing. First, it is not a big area which means low consumption. Second, it really works ! Third, you can drive with a disassembled door (if you suddenly do not have time to collect it)
Complete deadening of F<span>or</span>d Tr<span>uc</span>k for instance should be started with a floor, firewall and cab re<span>ar</span> w<span>al</span>l. Those are the most critical areas. That is almost a weekend spent and 115 sq.ft. of material used. Then you get 50 % of result. You can complete the remaining parts later down the road though. Every second Ford deadening topic in internet is about soundproofing of these particular zones of the car.
Anyways, we have got to deaden the noisiest areas. I felt the difference at every stage of the process. After all, it's nice.. when you realize that the time spent not in vain!
Let’s brake it down by areas. Сhoose one.
Once again, the insulation process is all about right sequence. Not even about the right type of insulation. The guys once again. Insulation of the car is like cooking. If you do everything according to the recipe, you'll have a great lunch (despite the fact you use expensive or cheap products). If you miss one point, you risk damaging the dish, and it have thrown in the garbage.
Save your time and do not repeat common mistakes to <span>ge</span>t <span>10</span>0 % out of your efforts.
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11-26-2002 05:55 PM