Does anyone know how to ops check an electric choke on a Holley 4180! I talked to a Holley rep and he told me to put 12v to it and see if it warms up! So I did and it seems to get warm, however before I start the truck I floor the pedal with the key on then start the truck but It doesn't set the choke at all, but If manually push the choke on the truck, it runs fine until I hit the gas again. It seems like its not setting! Also most electric chokes are wired from the alternator post but there are two on mine, one is only putting out about 5 to 6v when the truck was running and the other is always hot at 12-14v! Anyone know if the choke only needs to have 12v when the keys on correct and if so just any 12v source will work! Anyone got any suggestion other than buy a 4160! I am on a tight budget with 4 kids!

 

Hook it to the "s" terminal of the alternator. It should already have a black/white wire going to the choke. This terminal only puts out about 8v max, but if it has the original Ford spec choke housing on it, then it's set up for that voltage.

First make sure the tang under the choke housing is engaged in the choke spring. Do this by taking the black housing off and then look it over and make sure to engage it when you put it back on. Once you have it back on, with the engine dead cold, turn the housing till the choke door shuts(you will probably have to hold the throttle wide open to set this). Then start the engine with the power supply hooked to the choke, and see what happens.

 

Dave is right and the tech is wrong. The Ford chokes only take 6-9V.
Are you sure the door or it's linkage aren't binding somewhere?
Obviously someone has messed with it before if the tamperproof screws aren't holding the housing.

I have an old 4180 around here.
If you're still having problems PM me and if I can find it you can have it for the cost of postage.

 

Thanks guys for the information, I will look at it this week or might have to wait till next weekend, yes someone has messed with the carb before, someone even drilled out the covers for the idle mixture screws! But as far as the choke goes the link is for the choke I have so it still should be the same process you guys stated right? http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/images/chokes/CC164.jpg
And ArdWrknTrk I might take you up on that offer! If you find it let me know what you want for shipping to 32547

 

That looks correct but I am not sure of the application by that number.
The orange parts store sells them for $32 (p/n E6148)

When I get into the shop I'll look through the carb boxes stacked up on the shelf and see if I can find it.
No guarantee it is in much better shape than the one you have but I do know the choke worked when I pulled it off for the 650.

 

Also I have been reading that once the 4180 starts acting up, they are kind of hard to get right not to mention their junk! So I been told by a few people to just get a new carb and to get the 4160. I see that Holley makes 2 different 4160, one with adjustable floats and the other without. Any suggestions on which one to get. I have a 302 with 4 spd trans, Edelbrock performer intake in a F250. Nothing special! Future plans are a 351W

 

If you have a 302 I have a great carb for you!
0-1848-1 is a 4160c with vacuum secondarys, electric choke, 465 cfm supports your 302 @ 5500rpm

I don't think the 4180 is junk at all.

 

I'm interested in that 4160 you got! What do you want for it? I'm hoping that it will do a little better on fuel mileage then that 4180! And its a lot cheaper to replace parts then that 4180!

 

IDK, I bought it for my '77 but never got around to swapping out the old Autolite carb and intake manifold.
That project lost steam and the truck got sold to make room.

It's never been installed.
Holley's site wants $360, Summit $336 and Amazon $349.

PM me and I'll make you a good deal.

 

I just realized you may not have enough posts yet to use private messaging.
No discussion of $ trading hands on the boards.

I'll try your email.

 

I run a 4180 from an 84 or 85 truck on my 1981 351W that is modified. The carb is
slightly modified in that it has a single stage power valve and one size larger jets than stock. It runs well and the choke works well. It's just a matter of rebuilding it properly
and making sure all of the settings are correct for your application. A Motorcraft carb
kit contains all of the information on rebuilding and the settings.