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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:29 AM
  #16  
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If the high side pressure gets too high it will also cycle
 
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 06:23 AM
  #17  
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I'll get with Barry this week and see what my high side pressure is doing. I'll also pay more attention to the compressor to see if it cycles off when the air gets warm.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 06:07 PM
  #18  
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if you have a harbor freight near by you can pick up a decent set of gauges for less than $50.
Always handy to have a set of A/C gauges around,I do my own home HVAC work as well as my vehicles
It is good to get some pointers from experienced people when possible
 
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 06:28 PM
  #19  
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I had the exact thing happen to me, turned out to be debris in the orifice restricting the flow. Best guess is it was a bearing in the compressor letting go.

I ended up ordering the compressor, condenser and dehydrator from Ed, The only reason I replaced the condenser was the fins where pretty bad after almost 300K and it was less than $200, I replaced the dehydrator for pretty much the same reason...300K and it was only $75.

All told I had $480 in parts and I paid a local shop $300 to do the work so for $780 I have for the most part a completely new AC system. As a caviat I have noticed that my tranny temps are down about 20* with the new condenser, must be the improved airflow and it is ice cold in the cab now.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 07:54 PM
  #20  
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Sort of an update. Still haven't put any real gauges on it yet. Had kind of a scheduling issue so I won't be able to meet up with Barry till next week sometime. The AC's been blowing nice and cold. Around 45 deg with an outside temp of 98 so I can't complain. It finally kicked back off today at idle in my driveway so I popped the hood and noticed the compressor was not spinning. At least that makes sense I think in regards to the pressure spike. A couple of taps on the clutch with a screwdriver and it started spinning again and the air got cold.

Here's to hoping it's just low on freon and the cheap low pressure gauge that comes with the can isn't smart enough to figure it out. I'll update again next week after I get some better gauges on it.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 07:57 PM
  #21  
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Again, check with gauges when it's running. Sounds like a pressure switch acting up to me.....
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:38 PM
  #22  
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sounds like the clutch air gap may be too wide if tapping it made it kick back in
should be .015 to .027"
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl168i.htm
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 09:15 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
sounds like the clutch air gap may be too wide if tapping it made it kick back in
should be .015 to .027"
Ford Mustang A/C Compressor Clutch
I stuck the feeler gauge in there when I first noticed the problem and it was within spec. My first thought was an air gap issue. I'll check it again, but I won't hold my breath.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 09:26 PM
  #24  
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I had forgot you checked the air gap (part timers I guess)
Possible the clutch coil may be getting weak.Right now it's sounding more like clutch problems of some type
 
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 10:38 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
I had forgot you checked the air gap (part timers I guess)
Possible the clutch coil may be getting weak.Right now it's sounding more like clutch problems of some type
lets hope it's the clutch coil, I was thinking obstruction because of the pressure spike reported but maybe you'll get lucky!!
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 08:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
I had forgot you checked the air gap (part timers I guess)
Possible the clutch coil may be getting weak.Right now it's sounding more like clutch problems of some type
Originally Posted by clem1226
lets hope it's the clutch coil, I was thinking obstruction because of the pressure spike reported but maybe you'll get lucky!!
Found a set of gauges and the pressures seemed to be within the acceptable range. Noticed when revving up to 1,500 rpms, the clutch was cycling on and off constantly. At low rpm's, it was just off unless you bumped the clutch. Then it would stay on for a short bit and go back off again.

So I went ahead and replaced the clutch this weekend and the AC seems to be working again. Did plenty of stop and go driving this afternoon. Outside temp on my mirror read 103 deg. The thermometer in my vent read between 55 and 60, even sitting at several red lights.

Looks like the clutch fixed my problems.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 10:34 PM
  #27  
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Glad you got it Chris. Did you go with a Ford type clutch and if you don't mind me asking, how much?? And I'm wondering, I'm looking at a sale circular from this Volvo big truck parts house I go too to get odds and ends and they have parts for Navistar engines. I asked the guy at the parts counter would any of these Navistar clutches and parts would work instead of Ford OEM and he couldn't tell me. I told him I had a 7.3 INT. engine and he was still unsure. Reason I'm asking is mine seems to be blowing a little warmer than normal. Was that a 6 grove 5.8 diameter clutch?? It kinda looks like the clutches we have in ours..
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 10:44 PM
  #28  
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You need an 8-groove clutch to match our serpentine belts.

The compressor is a Ford, not Navistar, so it needs a Ford-type clutch.

They typically go for around $125, and that includes the coil as well, which almost never really needs replacing. The whole thing consists of the pulley, the plate, the coil, and a shim kit with three or four various-thickness shims. Some kits come without shims, so don't throw away your old ones just yet.

Here's some reading material:
http://www.warnerelectric.com/pdf/819-0322_P-1403.pdf

Pop
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 11:12 PM
  #29  
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Hello Pop, was just wondering if any of those parts would be compatable. I just looked again at the ad and there is a 8 grove also 5.3 in diameter but like I said, just wondering. Its been hot here, in the 90's and 70% or better humidity so I know things wouldn't be super ice cold but outside temps were about 75 and my inside temps blowing were only 50-55* and that with a produce thermometer put in a vent. Doesn't sound to bad but just didn't feel cold enough. I'll do some reading now, thanks Pop..
 
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 12:56 AM
  #30  
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A common replacement clutch for the OEM is PolarBear #CL-1620.


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