I have a situation that must be settled- now! My house was built in 92 with a masonite exterior. The siding has been repainted over the years but has never held paint well. I learned years ago that the siding on my house, that of many (most) in the neighborhood and of many others was defective and part of a class action suit. That may have explained the paint’s performance.

Some of the siding has been replaced due to projects or just because it looked so bad. The first several row on each end, those around a French door I installed on the back, the garage front (single car) and a very few rows on the front have been replaced. The house is approximately 2400 square feet.

It is not laziness but a slow window replacement plan that has so slowed siding replacement. I have been changing out the windows with high energy new construction ones. My goal is to eliminate all wood on the home’s exterior not just cover (wrap) it.

Here’s my quandary. Redo with masonite or vinyl? I could remove all siding and replace with vinyl.
Pros: I can hang myself, it never needs painting and instantly looks good.
Cons: would have to remove all siding. I will not cover the old. It’s a bad way of doing siding. Also my window replacement would be harder. A quote for siding removal and replacement was ~$14,000.

As for replacing with masonite. Pros: I like the looks better. Don’t have to remove any previously replaced so I could continue were I stopped.
Cons: Can’t do alone. Would have to paint immediately and periodically. The idea of swinging a 16” masonite board 20’ off the ground does not appeal to me at all.

Any thoughts out there? One way or another I must get going.

Thanks,

Reg

 

Remove siding install T1-11, paint, and enjoy your handy work.
I've installed miles of real wood plywood siding and it is the best, IMO.

 

What about cement board? You do need to paint it, but it's more durable, less subject to weather damage than the masonite, and less subject to heat damage than the vinyl. Plus, it's individual boards and looks more like actual clapboards than either of the others do.

 

Khadma, the neighborhood association would never allow it but thanks.

Six, is cement board installation like masonite? Looks like you would have to pre-drill before hanging. It would be nice to avoid the channel required for the vinyl.

Reg

 

Cement board is another good option.

It is best nailed on with a nail gun on wood studs and cement board specific screws on metal studs.

Much care is needed when handling cement board (fragile) and they sure are heavy.
Cutting these boards on a prolonged basis will require the cutperson to wear
a particle mask while cutting.

BTW, are your panels horizontal shiplap or 4x8 sheets?

I am familiar with (and installed a lot of) the Masonite Woodsman 4x8 sheets, of course before the class action suite.

 

Mine are standard 16' lap boards.

Cement boards definitely sound like a 2+ person job.

Reg

 

Approx. 4 yrs. ago installed 'hardiplank' on small work shop, it's made of composit cement, comes primed and in various widths, I used both 5 7/8ths and 7 7/8" widths, and usually comes in 12' lengths. Currently in process of installing on main house. So far the shop siding has held up very well to the damp and heavy rain winters. Anyhow, another option may want to consider.

 

If you're going to try and hang cement siding by yourself I strongly recommend you purchase a pair of siding gauge 'hooks' and a cement shear.
The hooks will allow you to set the floppy cement clapboard to the proper exposure while leaving you with both hands free to make small adjustments and nail it off with a gun.
A shear cuts the siding cleanly without creating a huge abrasive dust storm.
PacTool and Malco are two manufacturers.

Edit: the cement board option may reduce your homeowners insurance as it is non-combustible and immune to rot and insect attack.

 

***Definately agree, installed shop siding myself without hangers and found they can be difficult to handle, particularly in high humidity, would compare it to trying to line up a piece of cooked speghetti. Recently purchased the hangers and found there's quite a difference.

 

This exactly why I decided to create this thread - FTE member knowledge. I didn't know these tools existed and I have a lot of tools. Thanks ArdWrknTrk.

Great feedback guys.

How are adustments made when hanging up high as in handling safety? Is it possible for one man to handle a heavy board 25' off the ground? Not a good idea?

My plans were to install siding as high as I could safely reach while on the ground. Go to a ladder for the next few rows and a Manlift for the rest. The lifts run <$1000/week. $700+ was a quote a year ago.

Vinyl siding seems a lot safer to work with as altitude is gained.

I need to research to see if any new products with the looks of hardiplank/cement but less weight are out there.

Reg

 

I almost always work siding off of pump jacks.
The Alum-A-Pole jacks I own have a handy work platform built into the guardrail.
You can store a considerable amount of siding up there.
This will allow you to work an area whatever length plank (kicker, pick) you happen to have by about 5' in height before you have to pump up to the next level.
The longest plank I own is 28' so I can easily reach 32' wide.

The cement siding I have used was only 12' long.

The problem with a manlift is that you can only reach from one point and will have to adjust position constantly.
This might not be so bad if the terrain around your house is paved and you have an underground electric service, but it gets tiresome.

Vinyl is obviously a LOT lighter but it moves quite a bit in heat and cold.
Be sure not to nail it tight and make allowances for the weather at the time of installation. (cut it tighter in summer, and loose in winter)
Vinyl used to look cheesy but it has come a long way since I started in the trades.
I don't do much of it in the premium market I work in but I do believe that you are limited in your exposure to (at most) the appearance of "double 5's". (ie, two 5" appearing planks)

Personally, I like to set my courses so that they start and end even with window sills and heads. So I divide the distance and then decide how my courses lay out.
Sometimes this means the courses exposure will vary slightly. But you can only do this with plank or shingle siding, not an interlocking product like vinyl.

I make up a story pole and mark all corners and casings for my courses.
I think it looks more professional if you don't have little slivers of siding showing above and/or below the fenestration.

 

Reg,

I realize I didn't address your question of safety.
OSHA would require you wearing a fall arrest harness fixed to the ridge of the house.
I can't work that way and suppose I take my chances.
Be cautious and make sure whatever you use is footed well. Don't grossly overload anything.

The cement may be heavy in comparison to vinyl or cedar but it's not as if each piece weighs 50#.
Dave Engelson is right. It is limp and you have to be careful not to break it under it's own weight.
Turn each piece vertically (like it would lie when installed) as you remove it from the pile and it should be ok.

 

I did my shed (10 x 18') in vinyl so I am comfortable working with it. Just like its look the least.

 

I have been putting new siding on my house for the last couple of years. Years...I'm slow and lazy! I looked into vinyl and hardiplank. When I did the math, it cost roughly the same. I decided to use the hardiplank because I liked the look and I could change the color if needed. And I also had concerns about water penetration with vinyl. I'm putting it up with a helper. I'm using some scaffolding and a couple of ladders with walkboards. I'm also using an air nailer. I use a skil saw for angled cuts and i score and snap for straight cuts. That requires a little cleanup with a handheld cheese grater looking thingy.

My house is 1800+ sq. ft. on the main level and is 1 1/2 story. I have 15 windows and 4 doors. I had a budget of $5500 to replace windows, doors, and siding. I'm hitting pretty close to that. I had some overages because of underlying damage and some aluminum trim. I could have easily bought the extra tools and ladders and stuff for another $1000.

 

Hardie (strongly) recommends a weather resistant liner beneath. I have a plastic wrap inside beneath the drywall. Would adding another below the siding cause moisture problems? I don't see how. Do I reallly have to add the wrap outside? The masonite was installed without one. It and the house is 18 years old.

Other than using a stud finder is there a way to quickly find the studs once the wrap is in place?

Reg