When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OK, lets start again. I have a 69 vintage 351 Windsor which I want to put Cleveland heads on. Can be iron or aftermarket. Stock bore & stroke, forged or hyperutectic pistons, motor to be set up for high rpm, for no other reason than i like to wind them out w/4spd. Any opinions on rotating assembly, head and cam choice? Will be put into shortbed F100, hot street/some strip.
Is there any particular reason you want to use Cleveland heads? Back in the day when there were no good aftermarket options for SBFs it made sense, but out-of-the-box AFR185s flow better than the 351C 4v heads.
The stock crank and rods should be okay, just have the crank hardened, micropolished, camphered, and balanced. Scat makes good stuff if you want to spend extra for a forged steel crank.
The cleveland heads were a good choice for what you want to do about 35 years or so
ago. In this day you would be much better off by putting some of the aftermarket heads
that are available for Windsor engines which flow just as much or better that the cleveland heads flow. They new heads also have hardened valve seats which the old
cleveland heads don't have. Also because the cleveland heads need a special intake
manifold which is not readily available now it makes much better sense and cost sense
to go with aftermarket windsor heads.
Thanks for the input , guys. I guess I just like the look of the Cleveland valve covers! If I go with aftermarket, alum heads are all about the same price. As far as power, didn,t Kaase just win his 4th Engine masters challenge with his CHI heads?
Your best bet is to post what your goals are with this engine and what your budget is. What do you have now, just a stock 69 long block? The general consensus seems to be to start with a newer roller style block, but flat tappet cams arent so bad
Good point, Bashby. I guess my concern is the short deck (9.48) non-roller 2 bolt block in a high (7000+) rpm situation. Is there really a difference between older 69-74 and newer blocks as far as strength is concerned? I would prefer to use a solid flat tappet cam, but am open to suggestions. This is basically a old school solid lifter motor like we would have built in the early 70's. I know modern technology will make more power, I'm just trying to revisit my early hot rod roots.