Quote:

Originally Posted by Festus Hagen

I always set the intake, look at the gap, lift the intake apply sealer then set intake straight down.

Aye...

I installed an aluminum manifold, MUCH lighter and easier. To help with
alignment, I installed 4 studs in the centermost bolt holes in the heads, then slid
the manifold down over them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Festus Hagen

I have seen many things tore up (motors, transmissions, rear ends) do to improper use of Sillycones.

Aye x2... Wish I taken pix but I pulled out what seemed like a handful of blue
RTV chunks from the bottom of my oil pan when I rebuilt the engine, this was
from the same guy who apparently also thought RTV on head gaskets is The
Right Thing To Do:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ssageways.html

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover

Yea haha, sorry about all the questions...Thanks for puttin up with me

No prob, dude, I prolly shouldn't have said it like that. What struck me was a
whole bunch of questions butted up right next to each other in a single, giant
paragraph, which makes it harder to separate 'em out and address/answer
specific questions. Regardless, don't worry about asking questions, that's what
this place is for.

 

The trick of using 4 studs in the intake is such a good idea, that ford actually used it from the factory on 302/351W engines.
The carb doesn't have to come off, but it makes for a much easier job of cleaning the intake with it off. Removing the carb will allow you to flip the intake over to access the sealing surfaces far easier.
Unless it's leaking real bad, the idea of smearing a bit of RTV over the seams is way less work. Of course, if you were to get ahold of an aluminum intake and new carb, it would be upgrading as well as fixing an oil leak.....

 

Removing the carb also lets ya clean out & inspect the EGR valve (verify proper operation)
and replace the gaskets (warm, fuzzy feeling about no vacuum leaks (unless you put it
together wrong)).

OK, here are some pix of my 400 during assembly, I hope to show where coolant flows
(some of the places) and how there is no oil involved in the head gaskets, the oil instead
flows up through the lifters and through the... the... God, what do they call that rod that
goes between the lifter and the rocker arm? Brain fart time, I guess.

In any event, the oiling mechanism is outside of the area sealed by the head gaskets.

The green arrows are some of the places coolant is located.

The yellow indicators show where the lifters are located and the nameless rods are
located (yellow doesn't contrast well with a white background, hence no colored letters).

The orange arrow is one of the four locations where I put studs for alignment, this was
during a mock up (dry run) installation just to see what it was gonna take to make all the
parts fit.

 

Pushrods is the name that escaped your mind.

Also, note that the 351M/400 differs slightly from the 302/351W. The intake of the 400 doesn't have coolant flowing thru it, where the 302/351W does. The heads have 2 smaller openings at each end for coolant, though only the front ones have a matching passage in the intake. This means a 351M/400 intake can be removed without losing coolant, but a 302/351W will dump at least a minor amount into the lifter valley, where it flows to the oil pan. You cannot drain enough coolant to prevent this, as some will remain trapped in the heads towards the rear.
The 302/351W also uses 4 studs with nuts to hold the intake (along with several bolts), although these studs do occasionally come out of the head, rather than just the nut coming off the top.

Another good reason for removing the carb before pulling the intake is that you will shake the carb around wrestling with the intake, and any trash that has settled to the bottom of the carb will likely dislodge, and cause carb problems after reinstallation.

 

Yeah! Pushrods!

Rogue is entirely correct about the coolant crossover holes, your engine will look a bit different
than my M-block but I hope this gives you a good, general start.

On an unrelated note, if you're gonna use some sort of mechanical assistance to lift the
manifold, you're prolly gonna want to remove the hood. I sprayed orange paint on my hinges to
make it easier to line things up upon re-installation.

 

A sharpie marker also works great for marking the hood alignment, and is a bit less noticable afterwards.
But yes, hood removal does allow way more room for a mechanical lifting device, as well as the mechanics head........

 

Even better for hood alignment is to drill a small hole through both the hinge AND hood that corresponds to a common punch size that you have.
Then you can use the punch to align and *hold the hood in place* while you tighten the cap screws.

 

If you remove the hood you can stand in the eng comp stradling the engine to pick it up and set it back on. I dont feel it's heavy enough to warrant an eng hoist or loader.

 

I had a 70 F100 with a 302 many years ago. I could stand on the ground, between the engine and frame rail, with the hood still in place. Thankfully, my brother only shut the hood on me once, and after laughing for a few minutes, he opened it back up. Prolly due to hearing dad's 390 coming down the street........

 

I agree with bashby, if you remove the hood you can easily straddle the engine and lift off the intake and easily put it back on. Those intake are not that heavy. I was just mentioning a hoist because I do many FE's and they are behemouths. I would remove the carb either way so you can easily clean and paint the intake. It's amazing how a little paint makes things look all pretty.

 

Ha, wish i could afford a carb and intake combo. Too bad that would run me like 500 bucks.

I got quite a bit of room already in my engine compartment, enough i can pretty much sit in there. I'd imagine im big enough to bear the intake outta there. If not ill just grab the skidsteer.

Okay so i guess the real question now is how do i remove the carb? Is there any adjustments or such that i should worry about when taking off and putting back on?

Once i get the carb off, i then need to remove the intake. To take off the intake there are just several bolts surrounding the top of it that i should be seeing? Get the intake off, clean it, replace side gaskets, put on RTV for front and rear, place intake back on, carb, and done?

 

To remove the carb there are four bolts on the base that hold it on. Attached to the carb should be throttle linkage of some kind, the choke, either manual or automatic. vacuum lines, and fuel line and the air cleaner . The adjustments are on the carb itself so they shouldn't be messed up. I believe the intake has roughly 8 bolts that you have to remove, vacuum lines and pcv stuff might have to be removed. I don't think you have to remove the distributer. Always a good idea to tag things so you know where they go back on. Then you get the fun job of cleaning it and all it's werid angles and such. Then paint it if so desired. More time consuming then difficult, can turn into an all day project. Then when putting it back on make sure the intake goes on straight down so it don't knock the gaskets out, and use a thin bead of rtv, too much will squeeze out all over and make a mess of things inside and out. Then when putting the bolts back in the intake remember to step them such as if it requires 90pounds go 30 all the way around then 60 then 90. And always do a cross pattern so the intake won't get twisted, I like to go from the inside out. Good luck

 

Awesome! Exactly what i wanted to know.

Okay, so now how much of the RTV stuff should i be putting where yall told me to forget about the gaskets?? (front and back gaskets>?)

 

Clean and degrease everything really well.
Look at the rubber end seals you're about to throw away.
Put a little bead in each corner of the head-valley joint and wipe it in with your fingertip, then make a tall bead like the seal you won't use.
Wait until this bead starts to skin over (depends on humidity) and set the manifold down square and even.
On my 460 I can use studs in either head to make sure it goes on straight and the gaskets don't slip.

I do like that "Right Stuff" for this application. YMMV