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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #16  
6fifty_f1fifty's Avatar
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I thought the oil was pumped thru there for the lifters, could be wrong though, I haven't taken a v-8 apart before.
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:19 AM
  #17  
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Cleaning the oil up with brake clean like I said earlier is easier than the oil dye IMO
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:19 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 6fifty_f1fifty
I thought the oil was pumped thru there for the lifters, could be wrong though, I haven't taken a v-8 apart before.
Hmmm.... Come to think of it, remember those gaskets I said to throw away and
use RTV? I guess oil could come from there....
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:26 AM
  #19  
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The oil is pumped through the lifters wich are in the valley, under the intake up through the pushrods to the rockers. From there it just runs back down to the oil pan
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #20  
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Oil leaking at the end of the intake is just "splash" oil. Like bashby says, tossing those cork or rubber end pieces and using RTV is a very common practice.
You may be able to seal it up without pulling the intake, by cleaning up real good with carb or brake cleaner, and wiping some RTV over the seam. It's not "pretty", but it sure beats removing the intake to replace the gasket, and having to change the oil and refill the coolant. Those cast iron intakes are a bit on the heavy side, but at least it's not a FE......
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 6fifty_f1fifty
... They also highly recommend this black gasket sealer made by permatex that has a little trigger to dispense it. I am not sure which type it was but they swear by it.
Permatex 'Right Stuff'

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
It works great instead of the great wall seals on either end of the intake manifold.
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:36 AM
  #22  
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it could still be the distributor gasket
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:48 AM
  #23  
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From: Lost
Originally Posted by bashby
it could still be the distributor gasket
Very true. The original suggestion to clean the area up real well, then watch it closely to determine the origin of the leak is still the best way to proceed. Once the location is found, and info about just how much is leaking is known, the best route to resolving the issue can be advised.
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:51 AM
  #24  
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I don't have to worry about my FE's leaking oil, they are so caked in old oil there is no way it can leak oil anymore. See if you wait long enough it seals itself

How I usually change intake gaskets is use en engine lift plate and two people with a bar through one of the holes then lift, I put it on the same way as it easier to get it straight that way so it don't leak. With FE's I use a cherry picker or a chain hoist to remove it and put it back on. If you follow the torque specs you won't over tighten them, and when tightening always do it in steps never the full torque spec, that's how things get bent or broken.

Rogue's idea will work as well, just depends how much work you want to do and how much it bugs you.
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:59 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by fepowerguy8
With FE's I use a cherry picker or a chain hoist to remove it and put it back on.
Sure beats the "3 men & a boy" method....
The FE also has that annoying bypass hose that has to dealt with. Trying to stab the intake nipple into that hose will almost always result in the front end seal falling or slipping, and the rear one as well about 1/2 the time...... I think that's where the RTV first became the "gasket" of choice on the intake ends......
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 12:09 PM
  #26  
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Not just FE's but Lima's too.

Always fun to change when that little hose fails.
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #27  
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Okay well i cleaned it up to help see if i could find where it is leaking. Its for sure coming right below to the left of that bolt. But i think you guys are right that its the intake not the heads. It also appears there is the exact same leak on the left side of it too, lots of gunk buildup and such. Also the rear of it (all over the top of transmission) is half way wet and covered in gunk. So it sounds like this intake gasket is in pretty bad shape.

So it sounds as if im going to have/need to remove the intake and change the gasket. So what am i about to get into? Rouge, you mentioned im going to have to change the oil and the coolant? Wheres the coolant come from? What do i have to take off to get the intake off? Is the cast iron intake on there really so heavy im going to need a hoist? Can i do this by myself? Is there going to have to be any adjustments i will have to do, or is it just simply remove stuff and place new gasket and put stuff back on?

Feel free for any and all advice! Would love to get this fixed but hoping its not to horribly hard to do.
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:27 PM
  #28  
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Bunch o' questions, dude....

First off, have you considered the idea of smearing gasket sealer or RTV over
the front?

Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover
So what am i about to get into?
It's not too awful major or difficult and is, in fact, rather easy compared to
some things.

Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover
Rouge, you mentioned im going to have to change the oil and the coolant? Wheres the coolant come from?
There is a coolant crossover in the intake manifold; IOW coolant runs from
side to side through that manifold.

Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover
What do i have to take off to get the intake off?
The entire top of the engine, shouldn't need to remove much from the front
(accessories) unless they're in your way.

Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover
Is the cast iron intake on there really so heavy im going to need a hoist?
Most likely, yes; a hoist will certainly make it lots easier. It's not that it by itself
is so heavy, but the angles you need to work make it hard. I'll bet the thing is
gonna weigh at least 75 lbs, can you imagine extending your body over the
fenders to grab hold of that thing and pick it up? More importantly, put it
BACK cleanly & carefully?

Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover
Can i do this by myself?
I don't recommend it, unless you also remove the entire front of the engine and
can STAND where the radiator, fan & water pump were, you then MIGHT be
able to do it yourself but it'd be in steps.

Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover
Is there going to have to be any adjustments i will have to do, or is it just simply remove stuff and place new gasket and put stuff back on?
Should be just remove, clean, reinstall.

 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:08 PM
  #29  
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Yea haha, sorry about all the questions just trying to get this figured out! Sure wish i had a handy uncle/cousin or such that knows this kind of stuff so i could ask them all these questions and such.

Yea, smearing the RTV might work, but it seems that the intakes leaking from several places and i feel like the gasket should just be replaced so i can get everything cleaned up, working appropriatly ,and also for the knowledge. I really love reading/talking/learning these trucks.

Ahh, so first thing id be doing is draining oil and and radiator? Truck could use a oil change here soon anyhow, and i' never drained coolant just refilled up to level.

Hmm, dont have a engine hoist or anything, but friends got a skid-steer that could use the bucket and lift it up. (prob just as easy as a hoist?) That is if i dont end up just man handling it. Really i can sit half way in the my truck on either side, so we could get two people on it i think. But i'm a big ol hoss and fairly strong to boot. 275 6'0 with 8 years of football/6 years of weights. So i might be able to handle it alone, though mise well not and just use skid steer.

To take the intake off, am i going to have to remove the carb? Is there just the several bolts ontop the intake to remove it or will i have to go through a process of things to get it off.

Thanks for puttin up with me yall. Really grateful for all the wonderful help you guys provide.
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 11:44 PM
  #30  
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I as well was taught to toss the front and rear seals and use Sillycone. I hate the crap, but if used properly it has it's uses, intake front and rear seals are one.

The real issue comes when blocks are decked, this changes the height of the sealing area on the block, then shaving the intake to get it back down where it belongs to align ports will make the sealing gap tighter and failures occur. Installing them with oily surfaces is another failure, they must be installed (even when only using sealant) perfectly oil free! 100% perfect.

I always set the intake, look at the gap, lift the intake apply sealer then set intake straight down.

I have seen many things tore up (motors, transmissions, rear ends) do to improper use of Sillycones.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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