cutting front springs
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 214
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From: Kansas City, MO
cutting front springs
I installed a Mustang II front end on my 1950 F1. You can see in the picture below that the springs are way too big. I plan to cut off one spring at a time to get the upper and lower arms parallel to the ground. Just wondering if anyone has done this before??? If so, how many did you cut off. (Yes I know that mine could be different so don't go off someone elses...just curious).
Also, anyone have any tips on things I should know when doing this. I would really like something a little more accurate to cut the springs, but all I have in my garage is an acetylene torch. Anyone know something that would be better at cutting the springs? I might be able to find someone with a different too to do a better job.
Thanks!!!
Also, anyone have any tips on things I should know when doing this. I would really like something a little more accurate to cut the springs, but all I have in my garage is an acetylene torch. Anyone know something that would be better at cutting the springs? I might be able to find someone with a different too to do a better job.
Thanks!!!
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 93
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From: Daytona Beach, FL
Just in case you haven't already thought of it, before you cut your springs, carefully calculate where you want the body height to be.
In looking at the picture, if the control arms were parallel to the ground your front wheels may be buried up inside the wheel wells.
In looking at the picture, if the control arms were parallel to the ground your front wheels may be buried up inside the wheel wells.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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I would vote against cutting the springs. The springs will settle after a few hundred miles. You do not have the full front weight on it yet thus the lower A-arms will not be parallel to the ground.....and even if you did have all the weight on they still would not be parallel because they are new. If after you get it together drive a few hundred miles and still don't like the ride height; then I would recommend shopping for a different weight spring. Cutting springs will often allow them to compress so much to where they bottomout against themselves. but that's just my opinion.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,188
Likes: 4,795
From: Burbank, WA
As noted above, you do not have the full weight of the truck on your springs, so making any modifications at this point would be greatly premature. Cutting coil springs will also increase the spring rate, so be sure to know what you're doing, and the effects of the changes before jumping into it. Finally, never cut coil springs with a torch. The heat will destroy the temper and you'll have a rolled up hunk of scrap when you're done.
If your springs were included as part of a kit designed for your application, chances are they'll be pretty close to where they should be when you're all done.
If your springs were included as part of a kit designed for your application, chances are they'll be pretty close to where they should be when you're all done.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Kansas City, MO
The springs didn't even budge when I put the engine on the frame. I fought like hell trying to get the things compressed enough to get them into place. The papers that came with the kit said that they may need to be cut. After reading it again, it said that I should wait 100-200 miles.
As for the wheels, those aren't the ones that I will be using. They are just on there so I can roll the frame around while working on it. I put the bed on last night and the rear wheels don't have close enough of an offset to keep from rubbing the bed.
Thanks for the advice though. I would have started cutting without it. I'll be patient now.
As for the wheels, those aren't the ones that I will be using. They are just on there so I can roll the frame around while working on it. I put the bed on last night and the rear wheels don't have close enough of an offset to keep from rubbing the bed.
Thanks for the advice though. I would have started cutting without it. I'll be patient now.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,188
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From: Burbank, WA
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Helpful FTE hint #249. We have had multiple threads about the MII front end springs being too soft or too low. The 325-375# car springs you normally get with the kits have the tendancy to drop the truck to much, and the usual recommendation is to install 425-450s to get it right.
I'm not sure what rating the springs are that you have, but like everyone else has said, I would not cut them - at least until you have built up the truck and driven it.
We have never had a thread about MII front ends sitting too high or being too hard on the ride - never (at least as long as I've been here)
I'm not sure what rating the springs are that you have, but like everyone else has said, I would not cut them - at least until you have built up the truck and driven it.
We have never had a thread about MII front ends sitting too high or being too hard on the ride - never (at least as long as I've been here)
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Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,014
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Ditto to what the others have said. You'd be surprised at how much the rest of the sheet metal weighs.
I wouldn't mess with the springs until after you get the rest of the truck put together and have driven it a bit.
Bobby
I wouldn't mess with the springs until after you get the rest of the truck put together and have driven it a bit.
Bobby
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: tupelo ms
i removed and cut 1 coil from my fatman springs this morning. i used a hacksaw and 2 new blades.this is what the instructions said would be required with my 460 and heavy springs that came in the kit. just wished i had went ahead and ordered dropped spindles at no extra cost ,when ordered with the kit.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 129
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
So Jim,………….what year / model is you truck?
Is there any connection between the springs being to long and the dropped spindles?
Why would the springs included in a kit for a 460 be to long and have to be cut, couldn’t they just have supplied a shorter / weaker spring instead?
Thanks.
Is there any connection between the springs being to long and the dropped spindles?
Why would the springs included in a kit for a 460 be to long and have to be cut, couldn’t they just have supplied a shorter / weaker spring instead?
Thanks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 22
From: Oxford, Indiana
In addition to the other excellent advice you've already been given, I'll add this:
If you still feel that the front sits too high once you've put some miles on it and broken in the springs, then the proper way to cut coil springs is with either a hacksaw which takes an eternity or with a cut off wheel in a die grinder. The latter is the way that most folks do it. You NEVER want to cut off more than 1/4 of a coil at a time between reinstalls and road tests. You'd be surprised at how much difference that only 1/4 of a coil will make. Cutting springs to achieve a certain ride height can be tedious and time consuming, but this is the only good way to do it. Many sets of new springs have been scrapped from impatience and cutting too much at once.
If you still feel that the front sits too high once you've put some miles on it and broken in the springs, then the proper way to cut coil springs is with either a hacksaw which takes an eternity or with a cut off wheel in a die grinder. The latter is the way that most folks do it. You NEVER want to cut off more than 1/4 of a coil at a time between reinstalls and road tests. You'd be surprised at how much difference that only 1/4 of a coil will make. Cutting springs to achieve a certain ride height can be tedious and time consuming, but this is the only good way to do it. Many sets of new springs have been scrapped from impatience and cutting too much at once.
Clean & Classy
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,656
Likes: 20
From: Riverside CA..
I would vote against cutting the springs. The springs will settle after a few hundred miles. You do not have the full front weight on it yet thus the lower A-arms will not be parallel to the ground.....and even if you did have all the weight on they still would not be parallel because they are new. If after you get it together drive a few hundred miles and still don't like the ride height; then I would recommend shopping for a different weight spring. Cutting springs will often allow them to compress so much to where they bottomout against themselves. but that's just my opinion.
I just want to back up what fergusonicford stated: Wait until you have 500 MI. on it. The springs will collapse 1 1/2 "to 2" when they are broken in. As someone else said "be patient". I wasn't, and it cost me an unecessary spring change. I ended up with the originals supplied with my kit fron TCI.
I'm a little late on this but wanted to put in my 2 cents.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
What they all said, plus when you get it all together and if still unhappy, rather than cutting what you have I'd suggest calling the guys at Eaton Spring (they stop by here once in a while, so the understand our trucks) and explain what you have, your front end weight (go to a truck stop or someplace with certified scale and only put the front wheels on the scale pad) your spring diameter and at rest compressed spring height, the type ride you want, and how much more you want to drop it. They can make you a set of springs that will be just what you need. Coil springs are not terribly expensive.
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