Any tips on negotiating the price on an 2010 v10 thats $42000?.... what price should i go for before rebates? any advice?

 

I don't know what price you may eventually get, but when I bought my '08 it stickered at 38,500 and I bought it for 31,000 + TTL. I will advise three things that will help you from getting schnookered.

Don't trade anything in. If you have another vehicle to unload, sell it yourself. I have never been offered anything close for a trade to what I actually got selling it myself. In my 52 years and many vehicles, I have never traded one in.

Don't buy an extended warranty. These are "for profit" items for the dealer to sell. In the long run you will be $$$ ahead if you never buy one.

Don't finance with the dealer. If you need to borrow the money, arrange that yourself. Dealers seem to hide behind the monthly payment and avoid talking about the actual price of the vehicle.

If you take these three bullets out of the salesperson's gun, you will only have the price of the truck to negotiate and more likely to get a deal you are happy with. HTH

 

I agree with the concerns above but the solution doesn't apply to everyone. With low interest incentives, financing at dealerships can be the best deal. Also, whether or not to trade in is really personal preferences since people measure the value of their personal time differently. Some people will do nearly anything to make an extra $50 on the sale. Some people wouldn't even consider spending months selling a vehicle for anything less than $2000 difference. And regarding extended warranties, it is true that on average the warranties make the dealer money and don't make you money. The question is, how much does it mean to you? Typically, I don't buy the extended warranty. However, I am getting older and my pay check is getting bigger. I did buy an extended warranty on my last new car purchase (Subaru Forester) after negotiating down the price by about 1/3. I already have three old cars I have to maintain. I didn't want to have to lie on the damn cement under a fourth car.

Washincars is right that the dealer will try to roll up everything into a single bundle, or represent in terms of monthly payment. The simple solution is to ask them to work each transaction separately and talk in terms of purchase price, just like you would in a private sale. You are selling them a car (trade in), and they are selling you a car. If they won't do that, then they are not entirely honest people and aren't the right dealer for you.

Negotiating is about give and take, and not about holding a hard line. Your own price target really has little to do with the process other than a final decision. Your primary goal is to find out the break over point where the dealer just won't make a deal any longer. Take as much ground as you can on the first attempt so that you have room to give back and move the delaer to the break over point. Trust me, the dealer will not make any deals they don't want to make. They will take care of themselves. You focus on doing the same for yourself. Keep in mind that the dealer is only going to make you 2, maybe 3 offers before they are done. Don't waste one of those offers by making them blink first. They are just going to give you a high number you don't like anyway. Go first and throw out a low number and force the dealer to counter offer. By going first it sets the tone for the price range you want, and lets the dealer know you are a serious buyer and it is in their interest to work out a deal with you.

If you're going to negotiate well, then you need to be a serious buyer that will buy the truck on the spot - in other words, give the dealer a reason to negotiate with you. You need to know what it is that you want, and have an alternative plan in place (whether another dealer, or a different truck). And you need to be willing to walk away when you can't reach agreement. But most important, be reasonable or you might just walk away the loser because you couldn't see a decent deal when presented. For example, don't quibble over $200. If you can get that close to your target then you won.

 

I guess I'll throw out the example of my own Ford truck purchase because I think it is pretty good example of negotiating.

I walked into the dealership 2 hours before closing on the last business day of the year and pointed at the truck I wanted. They knew I was serious and if they wanted the truck off the books in that business year then they had to deal with me.

The dealer was asking $18.5K. I offered $12K to start. They came back and told me a sad story about how they can't even make money below $14K, implying that the next offer had to be north of $14K. Now I knew that their break point was somewhere between $12K - $14K. The primary objective of learning their position was achieved.

Now the real negotiating could begin. I replied saying, "Well, if you can't make money below $14K then I guess there is no point in me making another offer." Basically, I just forced them to come down again without even raising my offer. The salesman paused for a moment and told me I could always try. So now I actually have their agreement that the next offer will be below $14K.

I knew the next offer was the my last chance. If it was too low they would stop working with me and tell me to walk. I chose to meet them half way at $13K and we had a deal. All told, I got a good deal that made me happy and satisfied. Not a spectacular deal, but a good deal.

 

The advertised financing deals that I seem to see always require forfeiting a rebate, so that 1.9% or whatever has a surcharge of $3000 or whatever tacked on, which makes the deal not very appealing to me. I did pay cash for my truck so I didn't need to work a deal for financing.

All of the trade-in offers I have been presented are in line with the piddly offer I got when I bought my '08. I had a 99 Dodge QC 4X4. They offered me $1200. I sold it a few weeks later for $4500. If they had offered me 3K for it I may have let them have it, but as I had expected the offer was far south of reasonable.

 

I presume you are talking a new truck here.

Start off by going to edmunds.com and building the truck. Edmunds will tell you the invoice, you can even select all the options the truck you are looking at has. see if the dealer will show you the invoice, some have no problem some will act like you just slapped them in the face. Hopefully the invoices match, if not, you probably forgot to add something to the Edminds one. You should not pay more than $500 over invoice for a SD. On top of that you should still gte all your rebates and incentives. So if the invoice is say $38k on your truck and the rebates are 6k, you should not pay more than $38,500-6,000 = $32,500 for your truck. Of course I just made those number up, so you will need to do the math on your own with the correct numbers.

Now that you have the invoive in hand, you have 2 options. As mentioned above, it is generally not a good idea to finacne from the dealer, however they are offering 0% loans which is great. The rebates are lower however if you get the loan. Rebates vary if you have diesel or gas, I'm not sure what you are looking at but, they should be able to tell you the payments for either taking the larger rebate with normal interest and smaller rebate with 0% interest. GENERALLY speaking, if you are going to pay the truck off early, the larger reabtes are better, if you plan to take full length of the loan 0% is better, but each situation is different.

Once you have feel for which route you will go, I would offer invoice minus rebates. they will prbably ho hum about it, and then maybe offer $300 above invoice minus rebates. As mentioned, anything above $500 over invoice minus rebates is a rip, go to another dealer if they try to charge more than that.

Also, if you go for the 0% loan, don't put anything as a down payment other than the intial fees, it's waste of money, take that downpayment and put it in your 401k or something else that will earn you money. That's what I did sonce I knew I couldn't pay the truck off in less than 5 years.

 

I ride motorcycles with my car dealer. Drink beer with him about once a month. He has always went invoice price without asking. At invoice most dealers make 3 percent. So $300 for every $10k. 30k=$900. That's dealership money and includes paying salesman. Now some dealers wont go that route, but most like volume over making all the money on each. The other point is the longer the truck is on the lot, the more it cost to buy. The dealer has paid interest on it longer. When you order one, it is the greatest thing you can do for the dealer. No cost. So invoice is where I would go. Been buying them before I met my current friend at invoice since 1999. My wife's Mustang was $200 over invoice but it was the hot item and color in 2006. The Escape was "Ford Pricing" which was lower than invoice. A 2010 has lots of rebates, which even with low rate financing, are still better than the 1 or 2 percent rates. Financing through any bank at a higher rate of even 6 percent is better than no rebate. I just was there a month ago and we figured it all different ways and $5000 or $6000 was always better than the low Ford rate. Have your salesman run it both ways for you. Rebate will win right now.

So at the least- Rebate plus invoice. Or about 20 percent off sticker right now. Thats what it will add up to. $55k sticker is $45k out the door. 4/5th is 80 percent.

 

That's also my experience with older and less desirable vehicles. I suspect it all depends if the vehicle fits criteria of what the dealer will resell on their lot, or if it goes straight to auction. When I've traded in more desirable rigs I was able to command my own trade in price. Heck, I even convinced a dealer to take a Vette sight unseen until the snow cleared off the roads. It was 4 days before the dealer saw what they had bought. Now don't get me wrong, I had to be a good salesman to convince the dealer to do that.

 

When I purchased mine, I took the Ford financing with rebate ($3000) instead of the 0% financing, then turned around before making a payment and refinanced through my credit union.

 

I just bought a 2010 F-250 SD Lariat 4X4 on Wednesday here in Texas, and I got almost $10,000 off the sticker and the sticker was $47,500. Hope that helps, and I did NOT have a TRADE IN. Good Luck!

 

I know when I was in the market for my 01 250 CC, I kept checking the stealerships. I always contacted the prior owners to find out why they trades and what they were given for allowance for their trade. There was always a ifference of 5000-8000 between the trade in price and the new asking price on these trucks. That was without doing the work that needed to be done. Of course I made offers that reflected the trade in price with a healthy profit and was always turned down flatly. Do not trade anything in and if you are buying a used vehicle go get it through a private sale.

 

I don't know if you remember "1956MARKII'' he was a salesman for VAN BORTEL FORD and a contributor on the CAR/TRUCK buying advice forum. He was very helpful to a lot of guys on the board and sold a few trucks to FTE members that would go to NY to get them. Here is one post but there are many more if you search his threads that might help you.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-invoice.html

 

In this particular case you may have to give more than you normally would. 2010 is the last model year that the V-10 is available in the F-350/250.