engine pull - first time ever
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From: Seattle
engine pull - first time ever
Here's my rig as of now:
I've stopped for the day in order to think things through again and get phyched for tomorrow.
I've got all he peripherals pulled and labeled. There are just the two side motor mounts to remove and I should be set.
My question is this: I've never pulled a motor with a manual tranny. Never pulled a clutch, never had to pull a manual tranny off a motor. So... I'm a bit fuzzy where I'm at.
I've got the lower bell housing off, the clutch level mechanism removed, the top 6 bell housing bolts pulled from the block. Should be it, right?
I have a jack under the front of the gear box (per my manual). Is the trans really going to snap off and fall out if I don't have the jack supporting it?
When I crank the hoist tomorrow I expect to need to wiggle the motor forward a bit before lifting out... but what's gonna happen to the clutch stuff? Will the crank shaft and motor pop off the bell housing leaving the flywheel and clutch safely in the bell housing?
Anything I'm missing? What should I watch out for?
While I'm asking stoopid questions: I've expected this clutch to start slipping ever since I got the truck 4 months ago. Now would be the time to inspect and replace it, right?
I've stopped for the day in order to think things through again and get phyched for tomorrow.
I've got all he peripherals pulled and labeled. There are just the two side motor mounts to remove and I should be set.
My question is this: I've never pulled a motor with a manual tranny. Never pulled a clutch, never had to pull a manual tranny off a motor. So... I'm a bit fuzzy where I'm at.
I've got the lower bell housing off, the clutch level mechanism removed, the top 6 bell housing bolts pulled from the block. Should be it, right?
I have a jack under the front of the gear box (per my manual). Is the trans really going to snap off and fall out if I don't have the jack supporting it?
When I crank the hoist tomorrow I expect to need to wiggle the motor forward a bit before lifting out... but what's gonna happen to the clutch stuff? Will the crank shaft and motor pop off the bell housing leaving the flywheel and clutch safely in the bell housing?
Anything I'm missing? What should I watch out for?
While I'm asking stoopid questions: I've expected this clutch to start slipping ever since I got the truck 4 months ago. Now would be the time to inspect and replace it, right?
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the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate will stay attached to the motor when pulled. As long as you have the bellhousing unbolted and the clutch linkage removed as well as all other wires, vacuum hoses and gas lines disconnected, it should pull right out.
You might want to pull the radiator to give yourself a little more room to work with in the engine bay. I did this when I pulled my 351w out and it made a difference it the amount of room I had to work with.
You might want to pull the radiator to give yourself a little more room to work with in the engine bay. I did this when I pulled my 351w out and it made a difference it the amount of room I had to work with.
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From: Seattle
Yep, radiator & fan are out.
Crap. So, the bell housing bolts that travel through the bell into the back of the block- those are the bolts I've pulled. I think/thought that that meant the bell would stay in on the gearbox?
Funny thing is, as frustrated/confused as I am tonight, I will be 100% smarter about 30 minutes in tomorrow than I am now.
Crap. So, the bell housing bolts that travel through the bell into the back of the block- those are the bolts I've pulled. I think/thought that that meant the bell would stay in on the gearbox?
Funny thing is, as frustrated/confused as I am tonight, I will be 100% smarter about 30 minutes in tomorrow than I am now.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Mississippi
Yep, radiator & fan are out.
Crap. So, the bell housing bolts that travel through the bell into the back of the block- those are the bolts I've pulled. I think/thought that that meant the bell would stay in on the gearbox?
Funny thing is, as frustrated/confused as I am tonight, I will be 100% smarter about 30 minutes in tomorrow than I am now.
Crap. So, the bell housing bolts that travel through the bell into the back of the block- those are the bolts I've pulled. I think/thought that that meant the bell would stay in on the gearbox?
Funny thing is, as frustrated/confused as I am tonight, I will be 100% smarter about 30 minutes in tomorrow than I am now.
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From: Seattle
tranny/cross member
Yep, the tranny is bolted to the cross member, maybe 18" back from where the engine should split off. I thought it would be fine but my manual says to put a jack under the tranny to support it.
So, I have a jack under there right now but, man, it would be so much easier if it truly doesn't need the support as I could then push the truck back into my garage, hoist the motor up, and then push the truck back out of the garage.
Right now the truck is outside with the jack under the tranny. I was going to hoist the motor and then try and roll the hoist back into the garage to work on the motor. Ugh.
So, I have a jack under there right now but, man, it would be so much easier if it truly doesn't need the support as I could then push the truck back into my garage, hoist the motor up, and then push the truck back out of the garage.
Right now the truck is outside with the jack under the tranny. I was going to hoist the motor and then try and roll the hoist back into the garage to work on the motor. Ugh.
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From: Mississippi
Wait to hear from someone who has pulled an engine lately but I would think the crossmember would hold it fine
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From: Seattle
my back up plan was to take a few of my freakishly strong webbed straps and ratchet them so they support the tranny.
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From: Mississippi
That should work fine, as long as its supported. I cant remember where the tranny bolts to the x member, if its way back on the tranny with the bell housing and trans weight way out there, then yea, tie it up or wedge a 2x4 in the frame somehow to support it.
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From: Seattle
Yep, it's a ways back and there is the added weight of the front diff as well. If I remember correctly (without going outside to roll under there for the 500th time today) the front diff is out in front of the cross member as well.
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From: Halifx Pa
When I pulled my 300 out last year about this time, I placed a 2X4 across the inside fender wells back towards the firewall, and ran a piece of rope around the transmission to support the front so you can roll the truck around. This 2X4 went over top of the brake booster, which kind of held it back in place too.
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From: Seattle
When I pulled my 300 out last year about this time, I placed a 2X4 across the inside fender wells back towards the firewall, and ran a piece of rope around the transmission to support the front so you can roll the truck around. This 2X4 went over top of the brake booster, which kind of held it back in place too.
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Yep, radiator & fan are out.
Crap. So, the bell housing bolts that travel through the bell into the back of the block- those are the bolts I've pulled. I think/thought that that meant the bell would stay in on the gearbox?
Funny thing is, as frustrated/confused as I am tonight, I will be 100% smarter about 30 minutes in tomorrow than I am now.
Crap. So, the bell housing bolts that travel through the bell into the back of the block- those are the bolts I've pulled. I think/thought that that meant the bell would stay in on the gearbox?
Funny thing is, as frustrated/confused as I am tonight, I will be 100% smarter about 30 minutes in tomorrow than I am now.
I would buy a new friction plate (clutch). I don't think they cost much.
Then I would take the metal plate.. can't remember the name of it.. have that machined down until it comes clean.
And I would get a new throw out bearing for sure, another cheap item.
I did what you are doing ten years ago, only I pulled the tranny and left the engine in.
Oh.. also I would put a brand new ring gear on the pressure plate.. there I remembered the name !! The ring gear is kinda fun to replace. It really makes you feel smart and mechanical after you get it done. I drilled a hole between two teeth on the gear, then took a hammer and a chisel and popped the gear in half. Then I put the pressure plate in my freezer over night and shrunk it.
Then I took my little torch and warmed up the new ring gear to expand it. I had welding gloves on and I had to do it quick while the plate was cold and the ring gear was warm. It slipped right on then seized up like we wanted.
Then get a new starter, so you got new gears on new gears.....
There is no sense in cutting corners when you've gone through all the trouble to pull the engine out..
Have Fun !
Learn by doing...