The first part that fastens to the engine is the flywheel, That should be resurfaced , it's not a big expense. the ring gear is on that part. the next part is the clutch disk, it should be replaced if it has had a lot of use , it only goes on one way, don't get it turned around or you will have to pull it again . New ones are marked as to to way the are to be installed. The next part is the pressure plate , it needs to be replaced if it has been used a lot. They can be rebuilt but it will cost just as much. The through out bearing should be replaced if it has had very much use. In other words if the clutch has been giving trouble , which it sounds llike it has, replace it all . The easy way would be to put the housing bolts back in and remove the transmission to housing bolts and pull the housing with the engine. I know this to be true because I have pulled hundreds of engines. But you do it your way and good luck . JIM

 

There are no such things as stupid questions. You are smart for asking them ahead of time.

One problem I always encounter on my 79 is, I have to remove the front wheels and lower the front end as close to the ground as possible. I try to keep the chain from the hoist to the engine as short as practical, otherwise my crane won't lift the engine high enough for the oil pan to clear the radiator support as I bring it out.

Always be aware of where you put your fingers. The engine can break free and slam into the frame or steering box.

When reinstalling the engine, use alignment tools (screwdrivers, punches) to help align the bolt holes between engine and trans.

Also, if you find a gap between the engine and trans when reinstalling the engine, the input shaft of the transmission may need to rotate a bit so it will align with the splines in the clutch disc. In this case, it may be eaiser for you to remove all sparkplugs so you can rotate the engine by hand a bit so they will align.

Also, when seperating and mating the engine and trans back together, keep in mind the input shaft is pretty long, so try to keep the engine and trans inline as much as possible so it does'nt get crooked and bind up.

A long screwdriver will help with leverage when trying to position the engine as well.

 

Jad79 , just gave you some good advice on safety , it would be helpful if somebody was there to give you a hand. You don't want to get trapped with that engine, it can do a lot of body damage. I never thought about the crane you had in front of it, mine won't clear the front . But i have a chain hoist to use too. The last time I did my 79 I had the front radiator support off to do some other work , so it was real easy with nothing in the way . But thats a lot of extra work to go to just to pull the engine. I still recomend pulling it apart at the transmission mounting face. Be safe and good luck. JIM

 

Nice truck I love that color. I had a 77 F150 ranger short box 4X4 that color back in 1980. When you have the time do me a favor and get the paint code off of it, I have been thinking of painting my 77 F250 4x4 that color.

 

Man.

So, three hours in today and I've almost nothing to show for it.

I can hoist the motor up out of the mounts but it will not break free of the bell housing. The left side has about an 1/8 to 1/4 gap but the passenger side (by the starter) will NOT budge. I've tried barely lifting it to slide it forward: that's a joke. Tried cranking it up higher and rocking it: thats where I get the gap on the driver's side. My manual has a step "remove upper right motor bolt" but I've no idea what that means. But, whatever the deal it's that right side that's not breaking free. The whole bell housing/trans swings like crazy when I try and wiggle it loose.

Maybe I have to turn the crank by hand to work the input shaft a bit?

The other pile o' BS I see now is that I left the left exhaust manifold as it seemed pretty healthy. Now it looks like that will prevent me from moving the motor forward. OF COURSE three bolts on that side are bad so now I'm back to grinding and sawzalling those things.

 

Yeah, I got a wrie up sheet from Ford that lists all the specifics. I'll grab it this evening and see what it says for the code.

It's one of my favorite colors, too! Only seen two or three others this color and when I do it's always a surprise.

 

something else you may want to replace once you get the beast outta there is the rear main seal. I always replace mine when the motor/tranny is seperated wether it needs it or not, just so I don't have to pull the tranny for a stupid seal later. The seal is cheap insurance against more work later. JMO

 

I am not trying to be sarcastic, but did you remove the starter? It bolts through the flexplate and into the bell housing. You should have 8 or 9 bolts to separate the bell from the engine. 6 bolts for the bell and 2 or 3 depending on your starter.

 

Yep! Three from the starter and six big bolts around the top of the bell. Two left, two top, to right. Plus the few that held on the bottom tin.

I don't get it?

 

It sounds to me that your transmission spline shaft is binding as you pull the engine. I prefer to just remove the 4 bolts from the bell & transmission and take the bell with the motor. Your ring gear could be binding also against the inside of the bell.

Did you check to see if your ground straps are unbolted? Usually there is a ground from the engine to the firewall.

 

Like "first today " said and I have suggested two times . take it loose at the transmission face . Only four bolts and if everything else is disconected and out of the way ,it will come out. Or do it the hard way. I'm not trying to be mean ,just wanting to help because thats what you ask for,was help .

 

When you reistall the engine , it will be less work if you have the clutch and housing on the engine . Then you only have to guide the four transmission bolts on , so it's better to just remove the engine at the tranny now.

 

jack the motor up just enough to clear the mounts and use prybars to move it forward out of the transmission input shaft, its easy to bind on the shaft as the others have said. And also like they said, make sure everything is loose, its easy to overlook something

 

When you get the gap on the drivers side take a large screwdriver and work it around the top of the motor and the bellhousing, It sounds like you cant get the inputshaft out of the pilot bushing. Once it is out about a 1" it should come out really fast. I would bet the color is called chrome yellow. by the what what city are you in?

 

if someone hasnt already mentioned it, replace the throwout bearing as well while youre in there.