No strange noise's from the gear box.

Yep tried double clutching.....didn't help.

When the transfer case is in neutral it shifts fine.

It only drags going in to 3rd....or when I try to gear down into 2nd to fast. Once the RPM's get below 800 it will shift fine.

Drained the fluid, it is fine.....nothing in it, no metal of any kind, and it smelled fine.

I'm wondering if it's something in the clutch.....hydralics????......the master cylinder fluid level is fine.....BUT.....while I was replacing that arm on the clutch I noticed the loop on the rod for the master cylinder is worn where it connects to the pin; egg shaped instead of round.......makes me wonder if it isn't pushing in far enough on the master cylinder to fully disengage the clutch.

I think before a transmission rebuild I'm gonna replace the hydralic system first. That a whole lot cheaper than a transmission rebuild.

guess I'll just have to take it one step at a time, I've already done the cheapest, hydralics next I guess.


Say, I wonder........ can an "Old Man"...and I do mean old....go back to school to learn transmission rebuilds.




FOR SALE: Beautiful 1996 Ford F250, 460 engine (last year for the 460) posi-trac 410 gears......runs out great when the &$@#*% 5 speed transmission ain't screwin' up........

 

PS: You were right about the pin on the clutch arm, it was worn over half way through..........and that end of the master cylinder rod is oval: egg shaoed; instead of round as it should be. ..........where's the "beat your head against a wall" emoticon?????

 

39th down the smilie list under 'Go Advanced' reply.

or : - banghead without the spaces.

 

..............


OK, putting my "redneck" brain in gear here....."more grinding, and lot's of smoke"......us redneck don't use the brain much......
eh???....moth's???

Tomorrow, I'm gonna shim that "ovaled out" end of the master cylinder rod; with something????......maybe that will give it enough travel to disengage the clucth. If that works then I'll know it is/ or is not the master cylinder rod.

I appreciate all the help "Ard".

......oh yeah, back to.....

 

Check for firewall flex too.
You might be surprised with what you see.

 

I'll do that.

I had an 1989 F150, 4X4, 300 six, with 5 speed......let a guy talk me into selling it to him.......offered twice the blue book. Eh, wish I had kept it, never gave a minutes trouble.

 

I have an 02 ford ranger v6 five speed, and I just replaced the bushing this past Sunday and its already broken again. The dealership didn't even look at it and told me the throwout bearing is causing the problem. Any clues on whether they're just idiots? Clutch is new as well.

 

Welcome to the forum ABrooks

The plastic bushing linking the clutch pedal to the master cylinder???
I don't know much about the smaller V-6 trucks, as this is the '87-'96 subforum.
If there's a groove worn in the pin, a plastic bushing won't last long at all.

Maybe you could get a better answer in the Ranger forum?
Ranger & B-Series - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Hi all! I've replaced my worn pin and Clutch pushrod end with the infamous Hymen joint but I still have a little play remaining in the linkage "bar" that the clutch and brake pedals pivot on.
I've searched high and low for the plastic bushing that is between the main rod and the clutch pedal.
Note the pic below-I'm looking for the plastic bushing (as noted by "plastic bushing under here"-I found this pic on another forum..it's not my pic but accurately describes the specific bushing I'm looking for)



Here's another pic of that very bushing, pulled off the end of the shaft (again, I borrowed a pic from another forum):



Any insight out there for an OEM or Dorman (or other) p/n that I can search for?
By the way, here's the link to the Hymen joint set up I used from eBay.
I'd found it on this forum but can't seem to find it easily, so, here it is again.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Clutch-PERMANENT-FIX-ORIGINAL-Inventors-Rod-End-powerstroke-SUPER-DUTY-also-/261713482657?vxp=mtr
Be careful not to cut too much off if you do this...I've read where folks had to remove the switch off the push rod and bypass the clutch start switch.
I wound up cutting the yoke off at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions and grinding down what remained until it fit into the recess.

 

The bushings are OEM, from Ford.

When I get to a computer with an optical drive I can look up the part number off my CD.

I haven't seen a hymen since 1980, at least!
That Heim joint looks like a great way to repair the pushrod bushing that I used an oillite bushing to replace.

Thanks for the link!