Bringing up an old subject............

My 1996 F250 with a ZF S5 47 transmission has gotten to the place that it wants to catch, or grind going into ....mostly.....3rd gear; it does better once the system had warmed up????.

My mechanic recommended a local transmission shop. The guy said I needed a rebuilt transmission......cost: $ 2,697.88.

When I got up off the floor; I told him I'd have to think about it.......that's a huge amount of money for an old retired man; heck, that's a lot of money for anybody.

I wasn't satisfied that it was the transmission, so I got to looking on line, I found the ZF industries web site. In their info packet it says the way to tell if it's the transmission; synchronizers, or clutch problems to put a 4X4 transfer case in neutral, then run through the gears just like ya would if you were driving down the road........I did that, the transmission shift's great that way; with NO load on it; so that means the problem is in the clutch, not the transmission.......

And finally that leads to my question. The truck pulls strong in every gear, it does not feel like the clutch is slipping...........and I noticed fluid leaking from somewhere, and running down to the shield under the truck........I'm thinking the "clutch slave cylinder" is leaking...............I found the whole assembly on line so I know about what the part cost, what I don't know is how much the labor should be for installing the clutch hydralic system.......OR, if this something I can do in my carport.

Any info would be appreciated.....thanks.

 

What engine does your 1996 F-250 have?
Is the fluid in your clutch master cylinder low?

 

It's got the 460, ArdWrknTrk.

I just had thought of checking the clutch fluid level about twenty minutes ago.......the level is fine.

Ya reckon that means I need a new clutch?

 

OR......is there a way to make adjustments on the hydraulic clutch systems????

 

The 460 makes replacement easy because the slave is external.
But it doesn't sound like your problem.
You're lucky. On the 400, 5.0 & 351 engines you need to remove the transmission to change the slave.

If the fluid is full I would be looking elsewhere for the leak.
Perhaps the oil pressure sender at the back of the block.

If the clutch is not releasing fully but you are still full of fluid there are a number of issues possible, or in combination.

Worn master cylinder...

Firewall flex or tearing. (Have someone else depress the clutch while you watch the master cylinder under the hood.)

A damaged plastic retaining bushing attaching the push rod of the master cylinder to the belcrank of the pedal assembly. (Up above the gas pedal)

A worn or cracked cast aluminum pedal support. (This is the casting that holds the steering wheel up.)
You will see a shaft that the clutch pedal pivots on. The casting can wear where this shaft passes through.

The little belcrank (arm) which links that shaft to the master cylinder push rod can come loose and twist instead of fully depressing the master cylinder.
The pin can wear flat on the firewall side.
(This part is available separately from Ford.)

It doesn't take too much slop in any of these to adversely affect the clutch release.

 

No adjustment.
Although most aftermarket master cylinders have an adjustable pushrod, that is for installation purposes.

 

Thanks so very much for the info.......I'll check it like you said to. Again thank you.

You may have just saved me a bunch of money.

 

You're welcome.

You've already found the diagnosis page on the ZF website.
That's about all the advice I could offer about your gearbox.
Keep fresh Synthetic ATF in it and it should last a long time as long as you don't lug it.

 

"If the fluid is full I would be looking elsewhere for the leak.
Perhaps the oil pressure sender at the back of the block."

I'll check this out too. Thanks again.

 

Yeah, I'll have to watch that because with the power the 460 has, I'm inclined to do that.

Another question while your in here.........a local mechanic suggested putting Lucus Oil treatment in the transmission when I change the fluid......good idea, or not?

 

I don't think it would hurt as long as it isn't some thick goop like STP is.
These gear boxes want thin fluid with lots of detergent.

When I first got mine there was so much water in it the fluid looked like a strawberry milkshake.
Flushed it twice and then changed for the $$$ Royal Purple Syncromax.
Since everything for the swap cost $100 I figured I would spend $50 on fluid for peace of mind.

 

Yeah I don't blame ya, I might just go with the same stuff, I want this truck to last a long time.

 

Hey ArdWrknTrk, I got the master cylinder linkage off the arm........now to try and get that arm off the main shaft......it's a splined part, gonna be a bear to get off...

But, your right the pin is worn almost completely through....looks like it could have broken off at any time.

I called the local Ford dealer, the linkage arm cost $25.00.

Now the fun begins, how does an old man with a back that has been broken twice get up under the dash to pry that arm off ???

Guess I'll start by pulling the drivers seat out......that way I can lay flat on my back instead of all twisted up........anyway, with the info you gave me.....now I can "Git R Dun". ha ha

Thanks again, ya saved me a ton of money. If your ever down this way I'll buy ya BBQ dinner.

 

Got the new clutch arm on........still got the problem.

It's wanting to grind going into 3rd gear. If I let the rpms go back down top 800 I can shift it without the gears wanting to grind........any ideas????

Transmission rebuild????

 

Is the gearbox making any other strange noises?
Have you tried double clutching?
Will it do this when the transfer case is in neutral, with the rev's up?

I would want to know that the clutch is fully disengaging, but you say it only drags going into third...

It is possible that it needs a rebuild, but I am not a transmission guy, nor could I begin to make a diagnosis over the internet.

Have you changed the fluid?
Does it look like it's full of brass powder?