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I have a 1988 tube chassis Bronco with a stock 302 EFI engine. The truck has 36" tires and 4.56 gears. It is mainly for off road use. I understand I am limited to camshaft options due to it having a speed density sensor as opposed to mass air flow and I do not want to convert it. I would like an opinion on a few upgrade cam options to increase low-end power. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
ps, I just read that the main criteria seems to be duration of under 215 deg and lobe separation of at least 114 deg. Does this sound right?
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With that comp cam be sure to change your valve springs, it will push your exhaust valve springs in to coil bind.
While it's never a bad idea to get new springs when installing a cam.. especially on a motor with some miles on it, that cam won't cause coil bind on the stock springs, they can handle 0.500" lift no problem.
At least on GT40P heads they easily bind the springs with 1.6 rockers. Im running that cam now because after a few to many one night i managed to put a timing gear on back wards and fubar the crane cam and cost me way to much money.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck.. Buck, its too bad you messed up that Crane cam it's a beauty in the 5.8.. put a smile on my face every time I drove my truck.
FWIW the XE264HR that's in my 5.0 right now produces 0.512" lift and there are no coil bind issues with E7 heads and stock springs.
There are two cams under the XE264HR designation each with a unique grind number, the one I have is the 35-349-8 with 114deg LSA and the other 35-320-8 with 112deg LSA. If I was doing it again I would have bought the 112deg cam.. or maybe one of the Crane cams now that it appears they are available again.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck.. Buck, its too bad you messed up that Crane cam it's a beauty in the 5.8.. put a smile on my face every time I drove my truck.
FWIW the XE264HR that's in my 5.0 right now produces 0.512" lift and there are no coil bind issues with E7 heads and stock springs.
Originally Posted by Conanski
There are two cams under the XE264HR designation each with a unique grind number, the one I have is the 35-349-8 with 114deg LSA and the other 35-320-8 with 112deg LSA. If I was doing it again I would have bought the 112deg cam.. or maybe one of the Crane cams now that it appears they are available again.
what rocker arm ratio would that 35-320-8 cam be used with?
I'm using the Comp XR276RF-HR in my 393W (now a 395W) and love it. was .513/.513 with 1.6s, and .545/.545 with 1.7s, but NOT speed density-friendly!!!
Im in the middle of putting back together a 310w I bought a few weeks ago. Haven’t installed cam yet because of work. I’m really debating on buying new efi setup or a pimpx. Just not sure which way to go. Would like to run more aggressive cam and bigger heads
Instead of posting on old threads, you may want to start a new thread stating what you have and your intended goals for the build. Everyone likes to spend your money, so let them know how much they can spend. It isn't too hard to approach $10k on an engine build anymore. My recommendation to anyone unsure of what they should get for a cam will be to go with a reputable custom manufacturer. The price for the 35-320-8 on Summit is about $550, and the price of a custom billet roller from FTI is about $540. With all the problems that people (including myself) have had with them, I wouldn't even put an austemper cam in an engine these days. Once you have built your engine on paper, decide what you will need for the ECU.
Instead of posting on old threads, you may want to start a new thread stating what you have and your intended goals for the build. Everyone likes to spend your money, so let them know how much they can spend. It isn't too hard to approach $10k on an engine build anymore. My recommendation to anyone unsure of what they should get for a cam will be to go with a reputable custom manufacturer. The price for the 35-320-8 on Summit is about $550, and the price of a custom billet roller from FTI is about $540. With all the problems that people (including myself) have had with them, I wouldn't even put an austemper cam in an engine these days. Once you have built your engine on paper, decide what you will need for the ECU.
thank you. I’m still learning my way around the forum game lol