clutch pedal
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: alpena USA
clutch pedal
1994 F150 I6, 5 speed
I've found that my clutch pedal needs to be pushed almost half way down, before I can feel the clutch disengage and shift gears. (squishy clutch pedal)
Does this F150 year/model/tranny have a hydraulic system which might mean I need to top-up some clutch fluid resevoir ?
Or is it a dry plate type clutch.
Excuse me ignorance.. I know the engine, but tranny stuff always befuddles me.
I've found that my clutch pedal needs to be pushed almost half way down, before I can feel the clutch disengage and shift gears. (squishy clutch pedal)
Does this F150 year/model/tranny have a hydraulic system which might mean I need to top-up some clutch fluid resevoir ?
Or is it a dry plate type clutch.
Excuse me ignorance.. I know the engine, but tranny stuff always befuddles me.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
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From: Topsfield, MA
clutch pedal
It's a hydraulic clutch and the reservoir is next to the brake master cylinder. It's near the wiper motor. Black with a little cap on it. Open her up and see if she needs some fluid. Dot 3 is what it calls for I believe, says it on the cap.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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clutch pedal
baz, the clutch pedal on my 87 has an adjustment under the dash on the cross shaft. When I put in a new clutch, I had to press it to the floor and the truck still would pull itself. Took the nut off, pryed the bracket off the splines, realigned the bracket and replaced nut. Works like its suppose to now. Some have adjustable push rods going to the clutch reservoir to do this, if the clutch reservoir has been replaced. I know this works through 90 models, but not sure about 94. Worth a look, though.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
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From: Memphis, TN
clutch pedal
You're not supposed to pull the bellcrank off the shaft splines! 
You're supposed to replace the little plastic bushing between the post on the bellcrank & the clutch MC pushrod. I've never seen one with an adjustable pushrod.
You're supposed to replace the little plastic bushing between the post on the bellcrank & the clutch MC pushrod. I've never seen one with an adjustable pushrod.
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clutch pedal
Steve, replacing the plastic bushing does nothing to adjust the clutch pedal. Yes, you do have to pull the cross-lever off, hold the clutch pedal all the way up, put the pushrod on the post, and recut new splines as you tighten the nut. Says in the manual if it has been adjusted several times, you will need a new cross-lever that hasn't had the splines cut in it yet. To check adjustment, you pull the pushrod off the post, hold the clutch pedal all the way up, and see of the pushrod will align with the post without pulling or pushing the rod. If you have to pull or push it to make it align, it needs adjusting. This procedure is for 80-96 models with hydraulic clutch systems. As for adjustable pushrods, some of the ones you buy at autoparts stores around here have them. Replaced the one on my Dad's truck and it is adjustable, and alot easier to adjust than the OEM unit. Just to clarify, I am talking about the cross-lever that has the post on it to hook the pushrod to.
Last edited by 87black150; Feb 4, 2003 at 12:55 PM.
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clutch pedal
'87 f150 302 granny gear 4 speed
Wow I never knew about the adjustable rod there. I just replaced my salve cylinder, $9 plastic busing, and still didn't have any clutch. Then as my wife was pressing the peddle I noticed the firewall flexing like a kite. I remember reading about a TSB on here on the subject but I cant find it. Anyway I ran an aluminum rod from the firewall at the clutch master cylinder down to the radiator framing. It's working great for now. I need to come up with a more permanent solution though.
Wow I never knew about the adjustable rod there. I just replaced my salve cylinder, $9 plastic busing, and still didn't have any clutch. Then as my wife was pressing the peddle I noticed the firewall flexing like a kite. I remember reading about a TSB on here on the subject but I cant find it. Anyway I ran an aluminum rod from the firewall at the clutch master cylinder down to the radiator framing. It's working great for now. I need to come up with a more permanent solution though.
Senior User
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From: "tween the cotton and tob
clutch pedal
You can't cut "new" splines on the clutch bellcrank under the dash. Steve is right... you have to replace it. With a hydraulic clutch system there is no adjustment. I think you lucked out in your repair. By removing and then reinstalling the bellcrank you may or may noy get the throw you need to the master cylinder. I have several of these setups on various years Ford trucks. I have never had to install an adjustable rod to get the correct pedal travel. Once the system is bled properly, with no leaks, drips, runs or errors, the free play will be there. We put "MANY" hard miles on our trucks and this is one area not to skimp on if you want trouble free service. Use the FoMoCo dealer parts and all will be well.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
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From: Concord, NC
clutch pedal
I replaced the lever going to the master cylinder because the splines on the old one wouldn't allow for any other configuration. The way it was set up from the factory didn't let the clutch pedal return to the full out position. I replaced the lever so I could get it lined up properly, just how 87black150 described. I now have full pedal travel and complete clutch release. It wasn't releasing far enough, so I had a hard time downshifting and getting it into gear from idling in neutral. Replacing that lever fixed these problems and is the only way to adjust the clutch pedal on these trucks (I found how to in the Haynes manual). Another possibility is the bushings on the cross shaft. My dad's truck couldn't get the clutch safety interlock switch to engage to start the truck and it turned out that the bushings on the cross shaft were shot, and some how or another the spring on the clutch pedal broke off from the bracket that holds the pedals. So new brake and clutch assembly and new splines in the new lever and his clutch is just like new. Sorry for being so long winded, but I thought this might be constructive to add my experiences to the thread.
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From: "tween the cotton and tob
clutch pedal
And as stated earlier, the dash panel brackets and clutch/brake pedal brackets and or braces breaking will cause problems with the systems. Taking the bellcrank arm off and reinstalling it may work. I'm not saying it doesnt. Replacement is best. And as Steve stated, the plastic bushing is also of a concern. Anything that causes loss of movement within the system is an area of concern and one that will come to get ya later.
Senior User
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clutch pedal
xcopterdoc, I hate to disagree with you on recutting the splines on the cross-lever, but if you'll look at chapter 8, section 8, in the Haynes manual it'll describe in detail how to recut the splines. No luck here, just reading the manual. Sometimes even with new parts the clutch linkage still needs adjustment to work correctly.
New User
Joined: Feb 2003
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clutch pedal
Hi
I was interested in this metal rod that you rigged up to fix the firewall flexing problem. Can you give a little more detail on how you did this? This sounds like a better solution that the $300 to 400 job to have the dealer install the approved FW reinforcement
kit. I have a 1989 F-150.
Thanks
DS
I was interested in this metal rod that you rigged up to fix the firewall flexing problem. Can you give a little more detail on how you did this? This sounds like a better solution that the $300 to 400 job to have the dealer install the approved FW reinforcement
kit. I have a 1989 F-150.
Thanks
DS
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clutch pedal
I just got finished with installing the heavy duty firewall reinforcement kit in my 87 F-150 standard. I seriously studied over the possibility of running other reinforcement like mentioned above, but it was not feasible in my situation. When the clutch was pushed the clutch master cylinder did not move at all (it already had the "mini" firewall reinforcement kit put on it several years ago), but the vacuum diaphram and the steering column had bunches of movement, up and down and in and out.
In the process of fixin to get ready to put in the reinf. plate, I discovered that the pedal cluster casting was severly cracked and the Y-support strap that suspends the pedal cluster and supports the steering column from the dash board, was also broken. I can't even imagine what you'd have to do (remove) to replace that y-thing, but I was able to reinforce mine with bent framing connectors and nuts & bolts. I did replace the pedal cluster casting and put the "Maxi" reinforcement in. Lot of work! Had to remove truck parts that I did not know were removable. The clutch works good, now, though.
So, here's my thought... maybe the flexing of the firewall over the years caused these other things to break. In fact I recall reading this exact same account buried back in the archives while I was just in the pondering stages of the project.
In the process of fixin to get ready to put in the reinf. plate, I discovered that the pedal cluster casting was severly cracked and the Y-support strap that suspends the pedal cluster and supports the steering column from the dash board, was also broken. I can't even imagine what you'd have to do (remove) to replace that y-thing, but I was able to reinforce mine with bent framing connectors and nuts & bolts. I did replace the pedal cluster casting and put the "Maxi" reinforcement in. Lot of work! Had to remove truck parts that I did not know were removable. The clutch works good, now, though.
So, here's my thought... maybe the flexing of the firewall over the years caused these other things to break. In fact I recall reading this exact same account buried back in the archives while I was just in the pondering stages of the project.
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