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the best way to build a traction bar the the way that will allow the least wrap is a connection piont above and below the axle tube then triangulate it to the front. you want hiem joints or something equivalant. the front joint or the point of the triangle needs to be on a shackle. the center of the heim joint must be very close to in line with the top driveshaft u joint. the other side of the shackle will be higher up and will attach to a crossmember that will run from frame member to framemember.
if you just build a single bar and go to the top or bottom of axle it will use the srpring as the other anchor point and start to S the spring. so you must use a ladderbar that mounts on the top and bottom of axle and the to theshackle that is attached to the crossmember.
i used to do a lot of 4 wheeling and this design worked well.
you do that and use good parts i gauruntee your axle wont wrap
the best way to build a traction bar the the way that will allow the least wrap is a connection piont above and below the axle tube then triangulate it to the front. you want hiem joints or something equivalant. the front joint or the point of the triangle needs to be on a shackle. the center of the heim joint must be very close to in line with the top driveshaft u joint. the other side of the shackle will be higher up and will attach to a crossmember that will run from frame member to framemember.
if you just build a single bar and go to the top or bottom of axle it will use the srpring as the other anchor point and start to S the spring. so you must use a ladderbar that mounts on the top and bottom of axle and the to theshackle that is attached to the crossmember.
i used to do a lot of 4 wheeling and this design worked well.
you do that and use good parts i gauruntee your axle wont wrap
I think you are going to have trouble routing a traction bar that far forward on a SuperDuty. I also think he won't need anywhere near that type of leverage for his application. The system you describe is a good system but may be overkill for this application. I still think some properly arched spring from Deavers that eliminate the blocks are the first choice with bars that parallel the spring attachment points on the axle and the front of the spring a good second choice. That the bar be dimensionally parallel to those attachment points is crucial to minimize binding. I just don't think this truck needs that much help. They do make blocks with built in snubbers but they are of limited use.
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